Worked perfect for a year and half. After some cold weather it will only get warm now, faucet on full hot is barely warm enough for a shower maybe 80- 90 deg. could something have frozen that is replaceable. I did lose power for about 10 hours. Please help i want my hot water back
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Re: rinnai r70e warm not hot
This's been a cold year!
Is this an instantaneous water heater?
If it's outside or on an un-insulated wall in an unheated area this could very well be all that's wrong with it!
Is your heater well insulated?
Are your pipes well insulated?
Is it in a heated area?
If not I would insulated it real good and try moving it to an area that's heated!
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The hot side of the faucet is most likely plugged with something that came up thru the water system. The average thankless waterheater requires at least 1/2 to 3/4 gpm flow rate for the unit to sense flow and turn on. If there is not enough flow it will not fire and heat the water. Not sure about this particular unit but a few require at least one full gallon per minute flow. So chances are that if you fix the faucet, you fix the hot water issue at the same time
when your tankless starts cycling hot and cold water, then there is probably scale buildup inside the unit.
flushing the unit will remove the scale and any other debris inside the unit.
you can do this yourself, do you have the instruction book that came with the tankless heater?
it is recommended to flush the unit once a year especially if you have hard water.
it takes an hour or maybe a little longer to flush the unit completely.
We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.
Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.
Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.
If you are reasonably mechanically inclined: TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.
The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.
My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem.
You need to first make sure is the tankless who do the “up and down”! .If the problem manifest on more then one faucet then the problem is the unit. Have a thermometer (we use a infrared gun wich we train on Hot water pipe !) and see if actually the unit is the culprit.
If the problem is only on one shower It is possible also to be a “antyscalding valve” If the trigger valve on your shower is being adjusted too low then it trigger a splash of cold water now and then on regulate intervals.Try to adjust the temperature lower at the unit (say 110F ) and see if the problem change. If it does, then the problem is for sure in the faucet. If it does not change , then you have a problem with the water flow sensor.It is simply getting stuck. Bad bearing or even a piece of Teflon tape. I believe you will need a certified technician for that so no issues with your warranty will appear.
Its A Possibility The Left Over Water In The Hot Is Frozen. If Your Line Is Exposed Outside Somewhere It Can Easily Freeze Up. Turn On The Hot Water Everywhere In The House And If Accessible Check The Lines To See Where The Warmth Ends. You Can Leave One Off Over Night In Hopes That It Will Eventually Defrost.
sounds like your mixing valve or tempering valve not unit.Somewhere there is a unit that prevents scalding temperatures- I expect this is your issue find and adjust this first- there are directions on it when you find it.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?