Question about Mitsubishi WS-65909 65" Rear Projection Television
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS 65909 Power
The constant blinking green light means that the TV is not booting up. This is a common problem on this set.You need to remove the shield from the DM board (standing upright on the left where the DTV RF connector is)and inside you will see the four leaky capacitors (1000 MFD 16 VOLT)replace them,plug the TV in and wait 70 seconds for the blinking light to stop,then turn on the TV.The hard part will be removing the board from the TV(lots of screws and connectors,takes time)
You must do some checks first:LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067001 LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, and C9B11 (1000 UFD 16) on the DM PCB, if they are bad replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 UFD 16 V). LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds . LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D736001. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C061001.
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Posted on Oct 08, 2008
I have this information but it is too large to post here.
Let me know by rating this solution and I will find a way to give you the instructions.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Only one of two reasons for your problem--either the DM is bad OR:
These sets sometimes develop a problem with the front keyboard---micro switches in back of the plastic buttons can fail (reset one is common).
Remove front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it and follow the group of wires coming down from the front keyboard to the right top edge of the opening.
About 8 inches to the right you will find two plugs that are inline--they go to the keyboard--disconnect both and turn set on with REMOTE (remote receiver is behind the screen).
If the set now functions you have a bad micro switch on the keyboard (most likely the reset) and two choices---either leave the keyboard unplugged and just use the remote or remove entire screen and get at the circuit board and locate and replace defective micro switch.
Lots of people miss this as a possible choice--easy to do to either know it is the keyboard or not.
If set does not operate this way DM is bad regardless of how caps look.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks. I had found and tried the front control panel solution prior to your response but to no avail. Thanks for the help. Take care."
I am a proud owner of the same TV you have. A couple of months ago, we had repeated, intentional rolling power outages in the Dallas area in an ice storm. I had the blinking green light of death also. The problem is in your DM module. If you remove the back panel on the set and expose the boards, the DM is the one farthest to the left. It is actually located inside a metal frame that surrounds it. You can disconnect the wiring harnesses coming out of it to the other boards. You may have to label the harnesses, but typically they are labeled so you can simply match the numbers of the harness removed to the receptacle into which it was originally plugged. There should be about 5 of these to remove. I recommend using needle-nose pliers, as they can be very hard to unplug. Just don't squeeze too hard and crack the plastic.
Once you have disconnected and removed the DM board assembly, you will need to remove the metal housing and disconnect another series of wiring terminals in order to fully expose the power boards within. Make sure you keep track of which screws go where, as some may be longer than others. Phone pics of wiring harnesses can come in handy so you remember where they go. After the metal housing is removed, you will see an elevated, smaller board attached to the much larger main board. The small PC board needs to be separated and removed so you can hold it in your hands and work on it. At this point, you have the option to take the board to an electronics repair shop or to fix the problem yourself (as I did) and save yourself some money. A decent repair shop should remove and replace the defective components for about $20, PARTS INCLUDED!. There are 7 capacitors that need to be replaced. They cost less than 50 cents apiece at an electronics parts supply shop. You may find them at RadioShack, but I recommend an electronics supply shop. This way you can buy capacitors that have a higher voltage rating than those originally installed. A higher voltage rating is recommended and will in no way affect performance or outcome. In fact, the original caps (capacitors) were rated too low in terms of both voltage and temperature. I believe the original caps were 1000 uf (microfarad), 16-volt caps which are black in color - indicating they are 85 degree compliant. Look for 1000 uf (microfarad) capacitors with a brown color that indicates they are better for high-temp applications of up to 105 degrees. You will be able to clearly see on the cap that it is 1000 uf, 25 v, 105 degrees C. One very important thing to note is that a defective cap isn't always obvious and will NOT always display symptoms of a bad cap. Typically a bad cap will have an outward bulge on the top, like a soda can about to explode. It may also show signs of dark, caramel or black colored syrup-like liquid oozing out of it. This should be considered, but definitely not ignored. When I fixed my set, ALL of the seven replaced caps actually looked like they were brand new and showed NO typical signs of fatigue or failure. I replaced all seven anyhow, put it all back together, and brought it back to life and saved myself many hundreds of dollars. The primary point I wish to relay is that you do not rely on the apparent physical appearance of the caps to decide their state. I hope this helps any and all with the symptoms related to the constant blinking green light which responds to nothing on the Mitsubishi WS -65909. You CAN save your TV by spending less than $75 by doing it yourself (less than $15 if you have a soldering iron and solder) or take it to a ****** who won't do component-level repairs and will just replace the whole DM board for 700 bucks or so. I know these sets are old and rapidly being replaced by LED, Plasma, and LCD sets, but you can't beat the pic for the price. If I get enough requests, I will figure out how to post a video how to to do the whole thing. I hope this helps. This will fix the constant blinking green light with no power-up on the Mitsubishi WS-65909 rear-projection TV!
Posted on Apr 08, 2011
If this is a case of the little green light blinking on the front, nonstop, then let me know and I will tell you how to fix that problem, but this sounds like a different issue due to you not mentioning the "little green light"
This is a fix you should be able to do yourself, if you have any sort of electronice and soldering experience. (or if you have someone in the family that does)
It sounds like your TV has stopped working due to your Convergence circuit having issues.
These IC's operate at a very high temp, and usually only last 4-5 years.
If you remove the back of the set, you will want to look for the BIGGEST heatsink in there, on that heatsink, you will see 2 lage IC's , probably STK392-110, or STK392-120's or something close...regardless - you can go on ebay to order the new ones, but MAKE SURE they are Genuine SANYO IC's and not counterfiet cheapies. the cheap ones may last 2 minutes, or 2 months..
You will also need some "Heat transfer paste" - you can pick this up at radio shack.
Once you remove the old IC's, test all the large resistors near them.. pull one side of the resistor out of the board so you can check it out of circuit. they will usually have the value in Ohms, printed directly on the resistor, but you may have to use the resistor color code to find out what value they are....However, usually if there is any damage, the resistor will look like it has been HOT or fried. replace the IC's and any bad resistors, and you should be good to go. If you need to order a resistor or two,
If after replacing the IC's and any defective resistors, the convergence is still bad, make sure to use a multimeter to check ALL fuses on the boards,(including the small, surface mounted PICO fuses) --- sometimes when the IC's go, they will take out a fuse to the convergence power supply. If you find any bad fuses, replace them accordingly!
If this STILL doesnt make it look right, you will need to find out how to get into service mode and do a coarse convergence adjustment. This information can be found in the Service manual for your set. If you dont have one you can download it at manualuniverse.com
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Posted on Apr 17, 2011
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