Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Kenmore smartwash quiet pak 9 smells like burning rubber

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: my kenmore elite smartwash quiet pak 9 he 4t seems to be off

have you tried lower spin speeds? I found with heavy items such as towels and jeans it is best to lower the spin speed. also washing like heavy items on a certain wash cycle is best - i.e. towels on bluky/bedding.

hope that helps.

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

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  • 497 Answers

SOURCE: Error "F6" on my Smartwash Quite Pak9

I believe the F6 code is a motor failure. I suggest you call a pro to come out and look at it.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore smartwash quiet pak 9 HE4T will not

"F6" is a Motor Speed error problem. It is commonly attributed to a broken or slipped drive belt, defective Drive Motor, or bad Motor Control Unit (MCU). The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608706-f06_error_code

First, remove the back panel of the unit and make sure the drive belt is not broken, or has not slipped off the drum pulley.

Then, remove the top panel of the washer and check all the connector plugs between the Drive Motor, MCU and Central Control Unit (CCU). Check for loose connections and then unplug each connector and plug them back in (one at a time) to ensure they are snug and making good contact. The top panel comes off by removing the three screws that hold it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off.

NOTE: You only need to check the connectors that affect the drive motor and MCU circuitry.

The MCU has a tachometer mounted on it. If it is determined to be the cause of the problem, it is considered part of the MCU and cannot be replaced separately. The MCU is not serviceable and will require replacement.

Next, check the motor windings to ensure they are reading the proper resistance. Followed by continuity checks of all the interconnecting wiring between the drive motor, MCU and CCU. You should not need a service manual because each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet.

For more in depth troubleshooting tips refer to your tech sheet located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel. You will need to locate and remove the screws under the bottom front edge of the toe panel. Once removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes all error codes, test points, diagnostic procedures and helpful illustrations to assist in troubleshooting and repair of your washer.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: F11 error code on a

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Smartwash Quiet Pak 9 HE4t and I

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

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My kenmore elite smartwash quiet pak 9 he 4t seems to be off


have you tried lower spin speeds? I found with heavy items such as towels and jeans it is best to lower the spin speed. also washing like heavy items on a certain wash cycle is best - i.e. towels on bluky/bedding.

hope that helps.

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