Question about KitchenAid Architect® Series II KBFS25ETSS Stainless Steel
After dispensing about 2-3 oz of water the flow stops and a "machine gun" type of rattle starts whenever one pushes the dispensing button. After a long time, perhaps an hour, one can again get a bit of water, no more than 2-3 oz, ending with the same rattling noise. The temperature of the fridge and freezer compartment seems fine. I changed the filter that was one month overdue, with no improvement.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure your manual doesn't say something about inline filters, or a float that might be sticking in off position. Depending on how ice is made sometimes they have a float to where water rises so hight then gets shut off to freeze and form the ice.
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
I would check hte wire harness leadngto the door under hte freezer hinge. itll be wrapped in a black web like covering. Just under hte unit itself follow ht ewire and unplug hte harness. then carfully cut hte black webbing and inspect wires. there tends ot be apinch point there and the wires will sheer from one another, . if so there is no replcing hte harness, the door would have to be replaced at a cost of nealry $600. not enough room for a wire nut, but hav had sucess using stright inline bullet style connector, or others have sucessfully soldered connections back in place
Posted on Mar 25, 2008
I had two (2) broken wires in the harness. I don't think you actually have to take the door off. It may be a little cramped working, but I think it can be done. Once you take off the bottom grill, find the end of the harness next to the water filter and unplug the white plug. Just below that is a ground wire. Remove the screw and take the green wire off. Then, next to that is a white "c-clip" holding the harness against the bottom of the refrigerator. Remove that clamp and you should have enough "play" to work on the harness. (It is probably a pain in the #*@ to remove the entire harness because it runs into a hole in the bottom of the door and then up through the door itself) You'll have to cut away the black mesh sleeve over the harness. I cut it with a pair of wire cutters as close to where the harness goes into the door as possible. There may also be a bit of black electrical tape at the end of the mesh closest to the white plug. Remove that, and you should be able to slide the mesh sleeve off, over the plug. This should reveal the broken wires. I just took some 12 gauge braided wire and cut a couple of pieces
Posted on Jul 26, 2008
this is not a solution, but an explanation- our repair man said that there is a line (tube) containing electric wires that passes from the frig to the door at the bottom of the door, near the hinge. for what ever reason, the line has broken, thus keeping the electric from getting to the motor that dispense ice and water- solution= $700 for a new door; we'll do without
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
I had the same problem when switching to Pur filters. There are two curved wedges inside the end that hold the filter away from its connection. It turned out that they were just a little to short, putting the end of the filter to close to the connection, and that's all it took to restrict the water flow. I went to the hardware store and found a thin plastic washer that would add some space (it was for a faucet diverter of some kind, thinner than a dime). It added just enough space for good water flow. Another benefit was it helped stop the icemaker line from freezing. A simpler solution might be to make sure to get factory-original filters.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
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