Question about Ovens

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Is it normal that a whirlpool oven current varies between 9.7 and 20 amps

When the oven is turned on the current measured on the line started at about 9.7 amps but 20-30 seconds later it increased to about 21 amps and continued to cycle at the same frequency of about 20-30 seconds for as long as we monitored it. Is this normal? If not do you know what would cause this?

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  • Bruce Turriff Jan 14, 2013

    Thank you Bob but this stove is about25 years old and this problem just started to happen. I found a loose connection on the circuit breaker and fixed it so we will wait and see what happens. The stove is still drawing 52 amps when the FLAT marked is 45.5. Whirlpool seems to think the problem is the electronics control board.

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  • Ovens Master
  • 1,669 Answers

The heating elements on any stove vary in resistance as they heat up and cool down. When cold, the elements offer more resistance thus less current flows. As the coil gets hotter, the resistance drops and greater current flow develops. The thermostat cycles the elements on and off to maintain the temperature measured in the oven, thus the cycling of power used.

Posted on Jan 10, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

cactus bob
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SOURCE: Maytag gas oven cycles every 20 seconds

yes it is normal . but i know your not the first to think its not , todays ovens are so tight , it only takes 10 seconds of heat to keep them at proper temp . it used to be that ovens where kept at a 3 degree sweep that is set at 350 turn on and up to 353 then off ,cool down to 350 and back on . this was a longer time off and a longer time on topday we keep to 1 degree ! 350 on to 351 off to 350 on and so on ....... so short berst of heat make for a more even oven ........ but i know i hate it too ! good luck

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: self cleaning oven won't unlock after cycle is complete

Hi, Try and restart the cleaning cycle. You might here the door latch motor run (unless you havve a handle you need to move to lock door) Once the clean cycle starts, cancel it and see if the latch releases.

Vic

Posted on May 21, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 oven Model#

The ignitor is not allowing enough 'current flow' to open the valve. The ignitor , even if it glows, can be 'low current' to valve.
(the ignitor current controls valve)

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

  • 1340 Answers

SOURCE: Oven starts baking OK but will not stay hot.

This sounds like the heat sensor probe.If you open your oven,look at the back wall near the top.There should be a piece if metal clamped there.When you start your oven,the click is the on switch telling a relay to turn on power.After it gets to the certain temperature,the probe tells the relay to cut power.When you restart the oven after it's warm and cooling down,the sensor probe is giving the relay a "false" hot reading and the relay turns it off.Since it cycles only once or twice,the probe probably gets "stuck".Is the second cycle real short?Good luck! Greg

Posted on Aug 17, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Have a Whirlpool RF396LXEZ oven. It continually

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...


Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101


Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

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We just moved into new flat with a whirlpool oven Model No: 6AKP524/1X. There's no manual. What are the 4 buttons on top/front for.


Unfortunately we are unable to offer assistance to those residing outside of the United States. Please visit http://www.whirlpool.com.au for assistance in your region.

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Replacing igniter on wallmount gas oven


If your gas oven isn't firing up, start your diagnosis by checking the ignitor for the proper current draw. "Uh, do what?" you ax, with glazed eyes. Don't be intimidated by techie-sounding procedures. This is simple stuff- if you can fog a mirror, you can measure current draw. This article explains how to make simple electrical measurements and this one explains what you're looking for in the gas oven ignitor.

Once you've proven that the ignitor is drawing insufficient current (and, therefore, is the correct part to replace to fix the problem), use this handy pictorial guide to hepya change it out. The wiring for most range ignitors is accessed underneath the oven by removing the pots drawer, as shown here. Why do you need to access the wiring? Two reasons: 1) so you can measure the current draw and 2) it's part of replacing the ignitor since the new one has to be wired in the same way as the existing one. Take note of where the wires go. The ignitor wires are not polarity-sensitive so don't worry about "reversing" them.


In this particular range (a Maytag), I had to remove a covering panel to expose all the wires.


Here, I have my clamp-on ammeter on one of the ignitor wires to make a current draw measurement. You can see the closeup of the meter in the next pic. You can see the current draw reading is 2.4 amps. For a square ignitor, such as this one (you'll see it in a subsequent picture), the minimum acceptable current draw is 3.4 amps, well above what I'm measuring here. Obviously, in order to make this measurement, the oven has to be turned on and the ignitor getting voltage. This is a LIVE test, meaning there's live voltage on the circuit. Fire in the hole! Fry yo ace if'n you ain't careful, Hoss, so... BE CAREFUL!On some ranges, you'll need to remove the back panel to get to wiring for one or both ignitors (there's one each for bake and broil). Yes, this means the range needs to be pulled out from the wall. In the case of a wall oven where the freakin' engineers didn't bother to make it service-friendly, you'll need to remove the entire wall oven from the cavity. If this is the case with yours, you'll quickly understand why I abhor wall ovens. Here's a typical bake ignitor. Note that this one is square. Some ranges, such as older Whirlpools and GEs, use a round ignitor. These two types of ignitors have different current draw specs and are made to be used with different types of valves. This means they are not interchangeable. So, if your range uses the square ignitors, you can only replace it with another square ignitor. The brand doesn't matter since, by convention, all square ignitors have the same current draw and all round ignitors have the same current draw. For replacement square ignitors, I find that the Maytag universal square ignitor kit is the most cost-effective and reliable. I use this kit in all brands that require a square ignitor.

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as it is when your oven runs normally it usually does an on and off type of running in which the ignitor lights the flame from the gas which stays on until the oven tempreture sensor tells the control board that the oven is hot enough at which time it shuts off the gas until the oven starts to go maybe 10-15 degrees below the tempreture at which time it would let the gas go through the line again and turn on the ignitor try checking your ignitor usually if you stick an amp meter on them should be drawing 3.3 amps plz remember to shut off the gas from the gas shut of valve in the rear of the machine before measureing for the amps hope this helps

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My Jenn Air 1995 wall oven was working fine until one day the oven and the oven gas burner did not turn ON. I had electricty (make sure you did not trip a breaker) since my front panel LCD and clock was OK. I had a good gas supply.

My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.

Bottom line if you have the oven plugged in OK and you see some life (clock), and you have the gas turned on, most likely the igniter is bad. Second choice would be the oven's thermostat (the temp knob that you turn, say to 350F), or it could be the gas valve.

All three are in same current circuit. The igniter gets the most abuse so I would start there first -good luck!

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