My Windchaser Ice Maker, model #ICM 15S has what I believe to be a bad T1 temperature sensor. It will not stop making ice when the bin is full and the maker makes so much ice it binds the batch mecha
My Windchaser Ice Maker, model #ICM 15S has what I believe to be a bad T1 temperature sensor. It will not stop making ice when the bin is full and the maker makes so much ice it binds the batch mechanism or only stops if water is low. It appears to be only a sensor that plugs into the main control board. Any thoughts where I can find a parts list or the part for it?
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My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.
You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.
So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.
There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.
Now, pull the harness out.
Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.
Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.
Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.
I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.
If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.
You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.
There is some sort of arm that fits into the ice tray; when the ice fills up the tray the arm is pushed up and a switch connected to it will open the circuit and prevent any future ice maker operation(s). That switch has to be closed for unit to work!
please make sure first your freezer,s defrost mode selecter set on auto mode or it,s set on auto defrosting mode. if it.s or freezer making continuously ice in ice bin then defrosting control device or temperaturecontroller is not working for repair it please contact to your maintenance personnel for replace it .i hope after that it will work properly.
Good day, If the ice maker is the style with a wire to turn it off and on, and is in the down position, then the ice maker is bad, as long as the temperature in the freezer is 12 degrees or colder. (The ice maker locks out at about 14 degrees or warmer.).
You can replace the module, and thermostat in the the ice maker, but could be as well the mold heater. The price of repair is so close to a complete ice maker, that it doesn't pay to repair.
You might want to get the complete model number. Check with any decent size appliance parts house, they should have what you want, if going to Sears is an issue.
Older icemakers have a bar that drops from above your ice bin; once the bin is full the bar is raised and trips turning the ice maker off so that it won't dump. If your's is this style, try manually pushing the free end of the bar upward so that it locks in the upward position. Newer ice makers with the ice bin in the door have a small panel that moves to the open position when the door opens and closes when the door closes. Mine also includes an optical sensor that is visible when this panel is in the closed position. Try placing a non-clear tape over the optical sensor (don't know if that will work or not but worth a shot). If effective in stopping the ice flow then call a repairman. If none of this works, turn off the water supply coming out of the wall to your freezer.
There should be a sensor inside the ice maker bin that tells the ice maker when its full. It may be a wire or an arm on top of the ice. If you accidentally knocked that off the ice maker won't know when the bin is full and just keeps making ice
It's not too difficult to remove the ice maker. A few screws and the unit will unplug from the fridge. Then you can see why the bar is not turning it off. If it's really broken, check pcappliance.com for parts or a replacement unit. Meanwhile the fridge can keep on working, and you can use trays to make ice.
I don't have the details on you machine but if I were going to trouble shoot this problem, assuming its a temperature probe I would power off the machine, remove the access panel and remove the temperature probe and check it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker for proper functioning by putting the probe in ice and see if it opens electrically. Sometimes the probe is not a simple thermostat type. The bin control on some machines is optical. The ice pile breaks a light beam to turn off ice making. Sometimes the probe is a thermistor. These latter two kinds of probes have electronics connected to them. A simple ohm check will not work for these cases. You can tell what kind you have by looking at it carefully. The thermostat kind that can be checked with a continuity checker or ohm meter is a sealed metal tube. The optical type has a light source and a separate pick up sensor. The thermistor type is a very small device on the end of a pair of wires. For the optical type or the thermistor type write back for more details.