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Fused Terminal Block on Refrigerator

This query was posted on "Cars and Trucks" in error. The terminal block and housing has been destroyed by a major short. This may have been caused by rodent damage or (less likely) water ingress.

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  • 314 Answers

  1. Signal Integrity
    • One benefit of using a terminal strip to connect the thermocouple wires is signal integrity. Since the thermocouple has a temperature probe located on the end of the wires, a signal must be sent from the probe to the thermocouple. The equipment and machinery will work intermittently, if the signal strength is not maintained. For example, if the probe senses the flame on the furnace, it sends a signal to the thermocouple. Once the flame goes out, a signal is sent to the thermocouple, which shuts off the gas.
    Shield
    • The terminal strips have a covering, or shield, to protect the thermocouple wires. You can open the strip and gain access to two metals for testing. You must cut off the insulation surrounding each metal wire and insert them into a terminal strip to make the proper connection. The cover protects those bare wires from dirt and debris. The cover can be removed when troubleshooting the thermocouple and wiring. Without the terminal strip, you would have to cut off each wire's insulation to test the signal strength and voltage between the probe and the thermocouple.
  2. Transmitter
    • A thermocouple sensor that has to carry signals over a long distance requires a thermocouple transmitter to strengthen the signal. Using terminal strips makes it easier to connect a transmitter to the thermocouple device. The terminal strips also lengthen the thermocouple wires. If you need to extend the distance from the probe to the thermocouple, you can add additional wires and splice them with terminal strips to increase the distance. It is like adding an extension cord to an outlet, so you can extend the distance between the outlet and the television.
    Connection
    • Another benefit of using a terminal strip is that the strip enables a better electrical connection between the two thermocouple wires. Without a terminal strip, you would have to introduce signal compensation metals for the thermocouple sensor to get an accurate temperature reading between the two metals. Since the terminal strip uses the same metals found in the thermocouple wires, your electrical connection will not lose voltage. A decrease in voltage can trip the thermocouple.

Posted on Jan 10, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Electric dryer internal short

Make sure that the dryer is disconnected from the wall outlet before doing any repairs on it. Electric dryer work on 240 volts AC and this could hurt or even kill you. loose connection on the terminal block will cause the wires to get hot. and melt the terminal block and wires and the pig tail wires. you will have to replace the terminal block and pig tail wires and make sure you use the correct bolts and make sure you tighen them. let me know if this helps.krazytech

Posted on Sep 09, 2007

  • 619 Answers

SOURCE: no heat electric dryer

Hi , what the repairman say is true , that parts are available in appliance store or any electrical shop., bring that sample to the appliance store for sample . that is like sensor it will open when it broken the filament of heating unit will not heat up if that parts will open., it is one one who limit the heating allowed by machine .

Posted on Feb 21, 2008

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: G.E. electric dryer terminal block and wires are

you did not say how old? but I find that all it takes is one wire to get old, and starts to heat up because electric cant flow through it, then it gets worse and worse fast, then heats up the whole block, till the whole thing gets melted...bad thing is its happens slow enough that the standard 30 amp breaker won't trip during this slow melt down!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

vickygomar
  • 460 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace a terminal block my Maytag Dryer

it is very semple just follow this diagram and will be simple.

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=149928&ModelNum=MDE9606AYW&ManufactureID=1&Selected=51473&Position=0&mfg=Maytag&Type=Appliance&Mark=0

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Posted on May 18, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: maytag electric dryer not heating

Check the following to address this issue.


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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My heater only works some of the time and my rear defrost dont work what could be the problem


As by heat only works some of the time , you mean it doesn't blow air out of the vent's . This means you probably have a problem with the blower motor or blower motor resistor or blower motor relay .
Rear Window Defogger Inoperative

    Exchange the rear defogger relay with a known good relay from the under hood junction block.
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U need to check or replace below parts:

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After changing above still cannot solve the issue, u need to swapped whole process unit for testing...If not process unit problem, then u need to check the terminal on the machine that contact with the main charger unit, make sure the housing no crack...

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okay, just go to the correct section and post there. You can't close this one-it will slide into oblivion eventually, lol.

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Terminal block is fastened/secured with body by a screw but before removing the terminal block from body, make sure that the iron element terminals are also disconnected. this can be done by opening the screws on other side of the cord terminals-3 in number as also in the cord. Otherwise the terminal block would not come out fully.In any case you normally do not need to remove the terminal block.

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Model 7600ayw won't start. the terminal block


Hello,

Very likely whatever made the terminal block break caused the internal thermal fuse inside the dryer blow,causing the dryer to now not start. You can get to the thermal fuse which is not resettable and must be replaced by removing the front panel and find the thermal fuse in the housing where the blower wheel is...it will look smilar to this picture oldtech2332_108.jpgfor you exact model the part number is 306604 and the terminal block with should also be replaced is 400008 they could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at;
apdepot.com
searspartsdirect.com
partselect.com
apwagner.com
repairclinic.com



GENE

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Your fridge, though it it can use 120vac, also requires 12vdc to operate. At the back of the fridge (access through vent), there should be a terminal block where the DC connection is made. Using a multimeter, measure the voltage across the terminal block. Follow the ground wire from the block over to the common ground point, and measure from +12vdc to the ground point. You voltage should be the same. If you are not getting your 12vdc here, then check your coach fuse panel for a blown DC fuse for the fridge.

If you are getting your 12vdc at the terminal block, measure terminal J4 on the control board, to ground. You should have the same voltage as there is at the terminal block. Don't touch J5, that may have 120vac on it. If you don't have 12vdc at J4, look for missing / damaged wire that connects to J4 from the posititve connection at terminal block.

If you do have 12vdc at J4, check both sides of the DC fuse (3Amp). You should have 12vdc on both sides with respect to ground.

Grounding is crucial, esp. at the tie point. There must not be any corrosion or play in the connections.

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