You mentioned thermal fuse should fix my problem. how do you get to that thing on a stackable dryer? is it underneath the back panel, and if so do you recommend pulling that thing off the washer and out of the closet to work on it? any recommendation on where to purchase a thermal fuse to replace it? thanks for your help
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Re: dryer follow up
I don't know if I was the one to answer your question before but I will be happy to help you. I am not too sure of where your thermal fuse is as I don't know what type of dryer you have. If it's like the one in the picture that I see I would say that your thermal fuse is in the front. There should be a front panel that you can remove and the thermal fuse is located on the heating element housing. You can purchase one at your local appliance repair shop and if you don't have one of those you can get one on line. You might even be able to get on from Sears Home Repair Service if you call them. They may be able to sell you one from their trucks. If it is on the back though you will need to remove the back panel. I can't suggest how to do it as I don't know what your set up looks like. You would have to do whatever you needed though to get to the back if that is where the thermal fuse is located. Check the front first though to see if it is there, chances are that it is. It will be a small little fuse with two wires coming off of it. It is held down with two screws. It is rectangle in shape too. Let me know if you have any other questions and let me know if this was helpful. If you do have any other questions just respond from this message here, that way I will get the message. Good luck.
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If the dryer runs, then the 240 volt supply should be okay. If the dryer doesn't run, then the L2 leg of voltage could be missing. You would need to check the voltage at the outlet using the third image below if this is the case. You should only make this live voltage check at the outlet if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. If the outlet is bad, it will need to be repaired by an electrician.
You could have a blown thermal fuse in the dryer that will prevent it from heating. . Unplug the dryer and access this fuse by following the procedure in the first image. The thermal fuse should be on the back of the blower housing. I will likely have black and red wires attached to it. To check this fuse, pull the wires off (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance (open) then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced.
Hello there: please try these solutions and keep me informed on how this is going for you ok Power from the houseCheck to see whether there's power getting to the
dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit
breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could
tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have
circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the
two for the dryer are connected.Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but
doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is
simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with
an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to
replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to
the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about
an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white
plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You
can't re-set it.)WiringA common problem is for the main wiring connection
from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because
the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be
only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to
the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is
kill the power by unpluggin of kill breaker get acess to inside usually from back check the thermal fue or themosats or heating element.. clean your venting as well there might be a tech sheet inside but yea start there.. u can test those with a meter for contunutiy or call for service
Well, you do not mention which machine causes the smell. My concern is fire hazzard, be sure to check the dryer hose system, and DO NOT USE plactic vent hose, major fire hazzard, they make the same thing in metal and it works better....
pry the top up at the corners and remove attaching screws for the front panel and remove carefully. Now you should be able to see the canister that contains the heat element and the thermal fuse. If your thermal fuse is bad you also need to replace the high limit thermostat switch which is located on the canister itself and check that the heating element is not broken anywhere throughout the coil.
HAVE YOU CHECKED THE MAIN FUSE FOR THE DRYER?WHITE AROUND THE SIDES AND DARK IN MIDDLE,UNSCREW THE KNOB COUNTER CLOCK WISE TO REMOVE KNOB,SHOULD BE 2 SCREWS HOLDING TIMER REMOVE THEM AND THE PANEL SIDE SCREWS,THANKS-MIKE
You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.
Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.
If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).
Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.
This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.
I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.