Question about Porter Cable Variable Speed All-Purpose Tiger Saw Kit With Quick-Change Blade Clamp And Case 9737P

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Taking rubber boot off front of porter cable 9748 tigersaw

Need to tighten up screws that hold front housing onto main unit, but have to remove rubber boot first

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic


For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sep 20, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to remove starter


To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

May 08, 2014 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

How do you change the starter on a 2008 street glide with stock headers?


To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

May 02, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide...

1 Answer

Portercable 737 tigersaw can't keep a blade in the quick latch


You can try spraying some lubricant into the blade holder. Sometimes the "ball" in the shaft gets stuck from dirt. Otherwise you will need to disassemble it by removing the roll pin that holds the collar on the shaft.

Mar 08, 2014 | Porter Cable Variable Speed All-Purpose...

1 Answer

Porter cable air nailer leaking air from exhaust port continually


It certainly sounds like you may need to replace the seals on the tool.

The two main culprits are loose screws or bad seals.

Try tightening all the screws on the unit.

If that doesnt fix then you will need to purchase an overhaul kit for your model or take to a repair shop.

Since you did not give me your model #, Here is link to locate necessary parts:

http://servicenet.deltaportercable.com/

Thanks

Apr 20, 2011 | Porter Cable Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Need to change rubber door seal on Samsung washing machine


The first thing to do is open the door remove the wire spring that holds the rubber boot in place.You will need to lift the edge of the rubber boot to see the wire clamp.

Then you will need to remove the lid by taking out the two screws that hold it in place they are on the back.Next remove the four screws that hold the control panel in place.

Then remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.also be sure to remove the soap dispenser unit. after you take off the front panel you may remove the counter balances if you want to to remove the rest of the boot it does make it a bit easier but you do not have to if you do not want to.
I hopes this helps you out.

Happy New Year...

Jan 01, 2011 | Samsung Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have to replace door lock #8182634 and need instruction on how to take the old part off


Hello,

This article shows step by step photo instructions on how to replace the door boot seal of a common GE brand front load washing machine.

The washing machine in this example is the GE and the door boot seal
j

  • Phillips head screw driver
  • small socket wrench
  • 7mm socket
  • replacement door boot seal
  • lots and lots of patience

  1. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.1-120x120.jpg remove dispenser Unplug washing machine and remove dispenser.
  2. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.2-120x120.jpg Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom.
  3. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.3-120x120.jpg Remove screws connecting top control panel to front of washer. Remove screws connecting top control panel to front of washer.
  4. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.4-120x120.jpg Completely remove control panel from front panel. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off.
    Completely remove control panel from front panel.
  5. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.5-120x120.jpg Use bungie cord to tie back control panel. Use bungie cord to tie back control panel.

  6. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.6-120x120.jpg 'Pop' off the tension spring being careful not to bend or break it. Feel for the tension spring which tightens the door boot seal onto the front panel.
    'Pop' off the tension spring being careful not to bend or break it.
  7. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.7-120x120.jpg pull the right-hand side of the seal tight to reveal the inner tension ring holding the seal onto the inner part of the washer. With tension spring removed, pull door boot seal away from front panel.
    On GE models, pull the right-hand side of the seal tight to reveal the inner tension ring holding the seal onto the inner part of the washer.
  8. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.8-120x120.jpg remove inner tension ring IMPORTANT: Use a short stem philips head (such as a Husky No. 2 x 1-1/2 In. Phillips Screwdriver) to loosen the inner tension ring via its clamp screw.
    NOTE: you may have to remove the front panel to gain access to the tension ring. If that is the case, remove the front panel by removing the screws positioned at each corner (four screws total). On some models you may have to first remove a lower-front panel to gain access to the bottom two screws of the main front panel.

Dec 04, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Can't take off front off porter cable tiger 747 (rubber boot


Remove 2 screws from under front grip and the swivel foot should slide forward and out (might need a bit of a twist to loosen) plastic grip should now slide forward and off.

Dec 07, 2009 | Porter Cable Variable Speed All-Purpose...

4 Answers

Extreme Vibration in my Porter Cable (Rockwell) 330 Sander


I also have had this problem and I found that if I hold the unit tightly and squeeze the plastic housing the RPM's will stabilize as the unit warms up. Best fix is to replace the rubber isolators that prevent vibrations from the motor from reaching the plastic housing. The isolators have become hard through age or very cold temperatures.
I read somewhere that keeping the sander stored in a warm room can also help because when the rubber is very cold it becomes hard.

Oct 07, 2009 | Porter Cable Porter-Cable Speed-Bloc...

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