With door closed there is approx 3/8" gap at the top of the door, so it does not even contact the rubber gasket. The bottom of the door is tight against the unit housing. The door also appears to be bent in the same spot on each side closer to the bottom but the bend is away from the oven at the top, as opposed to back towards the oven which would make sense since we are pushing the top of the door in towards the oven to try to get the gap at the top to seal. I also cannot see the hinging mechanism in the door itself. It does not appear to be any type of bar or rod which the hook part of the hinge would pivot on. Are there any better manuals out there than just the owners manual?
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sounds to me like bottom hinges are set to close to oven/ need spacers so oven door closes flat top and bottom at moment it seems that bottom is to tight before oven door is closed ,try fitting spacers behind hinge fixings at bottom, good luck
The hinges usually have some adjustment on them. Two person job, or put something under the bottom of the door to support it. Loosen the hinges a bit, pull the door forward at the hinge which should close the gap on the other side. Tighten down the hinges and check again.
First off, make sure nothing is stopping the door from closing completely. If the door is closing properly, then using a hair dryer, heat the gasket until soft and pliable. You can carefully stretch it towards the cabinet. There is a magnet in the gasket all the way around on the mating portion. While the gasket is soft, the magnet will pull the gasket until contact is made with the cabinet. Once a good seal has been accomplished, allow to door to remain closed for 30 minutes. The seal will cool down, and the new shape will be maintained. After that, close the door on a dollar bill. Gently tug the portion of the bill on the outside of the door from one corner to the other. There should be some resistance to your pulling. If the bill feels loose, apply more heat to the gasket in that area to improve the seal. DO NOT HOLD THE HAIR DRYER IN ONE PLACE TOO LONG AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE GASKET, AS WELL AS THE PLASTIC LINER.
If the door is warped cheaper to replace the whole oven, the 3cm gap is a hazard because you have dangerous radiation leakage, the levels are exceeding safety standards and should be removed from service immediately.
That is called the door gasket, and if it isn't cracked it shouldn't be replaced. Sometimes we close the fridge door and an object is in the way, which may cause the door to flex, then close crookedly with a gap in the seal. These doors are very flexible and can be pushed in the opposite direction of the gap to resume their shape. Test for any gaps by placing a piece of notebook paper at various points around your fridge between the gasket and the body. If the paper grabs against the gasket, you are fine and can try another area etc.
Top hinges can swing right to left slightly when all 3 screws are loosened under removable cover. Use a 5/16 nut driver. Hinge cover may be phillips, 1/4" or 5/16".However, fridge case must be level left and right first. Level fridge with adjusters behind toe kick cover. Once level, you can adjust gap between doors with top hinge movement. Keep in mind that this is a man-made product and you may not get the doors exactly straight due to lose manufacturing tolerances.