Question about Electrical Supplies
My family has had this box for many years, running the same fence for many years (97 ish) and last summer it pretty much quit working. I have taken the lead line from the box to the fence off of the fence to test the gage to see if the needle moves, it stays in the same spot. I have ran all new ground wire (old stuff was rusty and brittle) No change. still in the same spot. (right between the red and yellow.) I've walked the fence and fixed any thing that may cause an issue. I bought a new box to test my fence (rule out broken box) and there just wasn't any real shock there either. I've used a fence tester to test the power to the fence and it lights up while being on the hot wire itself...I just don't think the zap that you would get from the line to the gate handle is as strong as it was. maybe degraded over time?I've check and replaced fuses with no solution. another problem noticed, the needle is really free moving, so if I were to just move the box the needle moves like liquid. not sure if it is suppose to do that. Box has 3 ground rods, with all new connectors. any help/ insight would be awesome.. Need to get the horses separated and the coyotes out of the pasture asap!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I WOULD THINK SO BUT THE BLACK MAT BE THE POS. AND YOU MAY BURN UP THE CHARGER IF HOOKED UP WRONG BUT OTHER THEN THAT YOU HAVE GOT I THINK
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
You have got to make sure there are no weeds or brush at all touching the hot wire. Nothing can touch it or it pulls the voltage level way down. Do a full inspection of line.
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
We have what looks like the same charger. When you open the box right side up, from the front, the yellow wire is soldered to the right side of the circuit board right above the little white box that is marked .47363. It is next to a small round black transister.
Posted on Sep 23, 2010
install standard switches instead and see how long they last. I think the Levitor brand you buy are China made witch are made inferior to the old standard ones that work so much better than rocker switches
Posted on Jul 21, 2011
SOURCE: I am adding a timer
I write complete answers, and know the GE timer line.
Open links to illustrate discussion.
Aug 2011, Jasco does not show a manual for 15351 timer.
They show 120V 15350, which is identical to 120V 15306.
That makes me believe that 240Volt GE15351 is identical to 240V GE15307.
BUT the 15351 might be a DPST with NO and NC terminals >>> add a comment if your instructions say anything about NO NC terminals.
If 15351 and 15307 are identical, then your wiring is 100% correct, assuming you connected hot leads to terminals L and 1.
1) You checked that terminals L and 1 are not connected by a brass bridge.
The 120Volt timer comes with a brass bridge across L and 1
2) Timer mechanism is attached to enclosure with 2 screws. Remove timer mechanism from enclosure, and compare back of your timer with following image to confirm timer is DPST.
3) Test 10-3 wire from breaker box. Test each wire to bare ground to confirm the hot wires. Then test each hot wire to other wire to confirm neutral wire. Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power and stand on dry boards.
4) Read nameplate on motor to make sure it is single-speed 240Volt.
5) IF motor is 2-speed, then look at wiring diagram and then add a comment with that information.
6) If pump motor trips breaker when connected directly, then pump might be shorted out. Double check wiring diagram on pump.
7) Take photos of problem. Post photos on flickr. Then add a comment with links to photos so I can see wiring diagrams, for possible help.
Posted on Aug 21, 2011
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