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Parmak precision s.e.2 fence charger

My family has had this box for many years, running the same fence for many years (97 ish) and last summer it pretty much quit working. I have taken the lead line from the box to the fence off of the fence to test the gage to see if the needle moves, it stays in the same spot. I have ran all new ground wire (old stuff was rusty and brittle) No change. still in the same spot. (right between the red and yellow.) I've walked the fence and fixed any thing that may cause an issue. I bought a new box to test my fence (rule out broken box) and there just wasn't any real shock there either. I've used a fence tester to test the power to the fence and it lights up while being on the hot wire itself...I just don't think the zap that you would get from the line to the gate handle is as strong as it was. maybe degraded over time?I've check and replaced fuses with no solution. another problem noticed, the needle is really free moving, so if I were to just move the box the needle moves like liquid. not sure if it is suppose to do that. Box has 3 ground rods, with all new connectors. any help/ insight would be awesome.. Need to get the horses separated and the coyotes out of the pasture asap!

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: I just bought a Parmak 6 volt solar electric fence


Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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SOURCE: we have 2.2 miles of fence,the charger is good for

You have got to make sure there are no weeds or brush at all touching the hot wire. Nothing can touch it or it pulls the voltage level way down. Do a full inspection of line.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Parmak solar fence charge does not work. I

We have what looks like the same charger. When you open the box right side up, from the front, the yellow wire is soldered to the right side of the circuit board right above the little white box that is marked .47363. It is next to a small round black transister.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: I've repeatdly install levitor rockers

install standard switches instead and see how long they last. I think the Levitor brand you buy are China made witch are made inferior to the old standard ones that work so much better than rocker switches

Posted on Jul 21, 2011

SOURCE: I am adding a timer

I write complete answers, and know the GE timer line.
Open links to illustrate discussion.
Aug 2011, Jasco does not show a manual for 15351 timer.

They show 120V 15350, which is identical to 120V 15306.

That makes me believe that 240Volt GE15351 is identical to 240V GE15307.
BUT the 15351 might be a DPST with NO and NC terminals >>> add a comment if your instructions say anything about NO NC terminals.

If 15351 and 15307 are identical, then your wiring is 100% correct, assuming you connected hot leads to terminals L and 1.

Checking details:
1) You checked that terminals L and 1 are not connected by a brass bridge.
The 120Volt timer comes with a brass bridge across L and 1
2) Timer mechanism is attached to enclosure with 2 screws. Remove timer mechanism from enclosure, and compare back of your timer with following image to confirm timer is DPST.
3) Test 10-3 wire from breaker box. Test each wire to bare ground to confirm the hot wires. Then test each hot wire to other wire to confirm neutral wire. Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power and stand on dry boards.
4) Read nameplate on motor to make sure it is single-speed 240Volt.
5) IF motor is 2-speed, then look at wiring diagram and then add a comment with that information.
6) If pump motor trips breaker when connected directly, then pump might be shorted out. Double check wiring diagram on pump.

7) Take photos of problem. Post photos on flickr. Then add a comment with links to photos so I can see wiring diagrams, for possible help.

Posted on Aug 21, 2011

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Grounding is very important for an electric fence, especially in dry soil. I normally drive 2 or 3 - 6 foot long ground rods 10 feet apart then join them all together and run that to the charger using double 14 gauge or 12 gauge copper wire. You can get the roda at Tractor Supply.

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The click is the transformer carrying current. If the unit doesn't click, unhook the fence from it and turn it on. If it starts clicking it is a short on the fence. If it doesn't then the unit is not working. contact parmak and they can service it or sell you a replacement circuit board which is the most common failure.

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It depends on the type of fence tester. the common light-o-meters are a resistor ladder, calculated not only for voltage but current. the DF-SP-LI uses half the lowest current most are designed for. no if that is a digital or analog meter, then it would be time to check the out put from the charger with out the fencer connected. if you get the same reading it maybe defective unit. if you get a better reading then you will probable need to upgrade your ground system. insuffencient ground will show its self as a low out put on the fence but not on the charger.

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I have see this happen before and its usually do to most moisture/rain getting in. ie use multi meter to varify solar charger putting out current/voltage. Odds are its not anymore. Rechargable batteries are notorius for not lasting but not in 2 months.

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My Parmak solar fence charge does not work. I have new battery. I opened the metal box with all the capacitors and wires and there is a yellow wire that came unsoldered leading from the little electrical...

We have what looks like the same charger. When you open the box right side up, from the front, the yellow wire is soldered to the right side of the circuit board right above the little white box that is marked .47363. It is next to a small round black transister.

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Installing instructions

You can download and print your PARMAK manual here:

Dec 19, 2009 | Parmak Solar Fence Charger

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