Question about Washing Machines
I have a ge dish washer model gsm1800jbb and the handle latch (WD13X10030) had to be replaced...well it took a while to get it in and now we are not sure how to wire the wires. There are 2 white and 2 black and 6 different prongs so I am not sure which way to plug them in to make it work properly. It worked fine before it got stuck closed and wouldn't open, that's why we ordered the whole assembly. The way I have it wired it sounds like its working...water goes in and drains put but the arms on top and bottom aren't spinning and water is not coming out of them...it's just coming out of the side. WHEW!!! That's a lot of info...I hope it helps in solving the wiring issue!! If you have anymore questions please let me know!! Thanks for your help :-)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
was the machine working when you bought it? if there's 240 available, then a problem is in the machine NOT your wiring. both motors, the dryer and wash motor may be 240 volts OR 120 volts - a hot leg to ground. the feeder should be a four wire because the white is the neutral and the ground an equipment ground. at the panelbox both the equip gnd and white terminate at the neutral bus.
Posted on Sep 12, 2007
The black or brown connection block on the motor should be color coded to match the harness. If not you will need to remove the control panel and find the service guide sheet. This will give you the wiring diagram for the whole machine.
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
Is there a white or black connector that clips on the motor switch? it should be an easy unplug and plug the new motor in.
I dont of any Manufacturer that uses single wire connectors any more.
Are you sure you got the correct motor?
Posted on May 28, 2008
Have you checked the lid switch? A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know. NOTE: I don't know of any "safety switch" on the washer. You can, however, by-pass the lid switch to get it to work temporarily. It is by-passed by jumpering the plug in the console - not splicing any wires. I would not recommend by-passing any safety features, though. You may cause damage to the machine and/or anyone that attempts to use it.
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: wire Hayward Super Pump for 115
If you look closely, you should see a small arrow on the black plastic piece on the terminal block(jumper). That arrow lines up with either the 115 or 230 mark on the white terminal board. Make sure it is aligned with the 115.
Then put you two line wires on. It does not matter which wire goes to line 1 and line 2, just be sure you DO NOT put them both on the same terminal. A plastic divider usually seperates the two line connection terminals.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
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