Question about Heating & Cooling
How do I connect the high voltage wire to the Model 990-516 spark ignitor?
Posted by Anonymous on
Jan 8, 2013 - How do I connect the high voltage wire to the Model 990-516 spark - Air ... SOURCE: Goodman furnace wont light, ignitor suspected. Notice.
Posted on Dec 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a problem with
Buy a new ignitor either from the ignitor store online, or your local distributer, Contracter, dealer.. they usually run from 15 dollars to 35. Their simple to change out and deffinite do it yourselfer... Oh and turn off power at breaker panel, you don't need any unexpected surprises!!
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
Notice. I do not mind helping diagnose furnaces although I try to be cautious when giving advice on them. Please bare with me if I ask question. I don't want anyone burning their house down or hurting themselves and a furnace will do both.
You stated that you get a steady 4.9v then the fan turns off. Which fan are you speaking of? Also, the igniter should read 3.8 ohm's if it's good. The furnace should be sending 120 v to the igniter.
I'm not sure the igniter is the problem unit I receive a reply from question.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
No problem have done this many times. R from the t-stat goes to R on the indoor unit. G goes to G Y goes to Y and C goes to C if you have a C or the t-stat the you are using. If there is no C there dont worry about it. It only need to be hookup if the t-stat uses power from the unit to run. Many t-stats today use battery power and do not need the C wire hooked up. Now R and C from the outdoor unit. R goes to the Y on the indoor unit and C goes to C on the indoor unit. That means that you may have two wires under the Y terminal and sometimes under the C terminal on the indoor unit. If on the outdoor unit there is no designation of R and C dont worry, just hook one wire to each of the two wires there for your low voltage connection. It does not matter which one goes to which unless they are marked then it may matter.
This should get you up and running and see it really isn't that hard!! :-)
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you very much! I have been searching the inernet for hours to find a manual or diagram. Got a response within 15 minutes of posting. "
SOURCE: I have Rudd hot air
Hi, Check the flame sensor next to the pilot. It should be a ceramic rod with a metal tip that rests in the pilot flame. It may be dirty. Clean the tip with steel wool real good and make sure it is in the pilot flame good. This will cause that condition to happen. If this doesn't take care of it, get back to me and we will go from there. Should solve you're problem. Merry Christmas,
Posted on Dec 25, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Rudd furnace
Well first you want to verify that there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Turn off the valve and disconnect the connector. Then turn on the valve for 1 second and back off. You should get plenty of gas flow. Be careful doing this!. Then inspect the opening at the adapter to the control. There is a screen inside there. Make sure the screen is clear(not plugged with pipe dope,lint ect). When the igniter reaches the 2200 degrees you should hear the gas solenoid valve click open releasing gas. If you hear it click and no gas is released you will need to inspect the burner orfices. The orfice has an extremely small hole and there is a posibillity that they are plugged with debris. You will need to use a very small wire(like a tie strap) and insert it into each hole and see if there is anything in the orfice. If you do not hear the gas valve click then it might not be getting the signal it needs due to a weak igniter or flame rectification sensor. Does your furnace have a stand-by pilot that is lit by the hot surface igniter or does the igniter directly light the burner assembly?
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
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Here is a tip that will help you try to figure out why your furnace is not working.
Basic Furnace or Heating System Troubleshooting
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1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
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