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How to install a spark ignitor in a gas furnace?

How do I connect the high voltage wire to the Model 990-516 spark ignitor?

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How to install a spark ignitor in a gas furnace? - Fixya

www.fixya.com/support/t15727344-install_spark_ignitor_in_gas_furnace
Jan 8, 2013 - How do I connect the high voltage wire to the Model 990-516 spark - Air ... SOURCE: Goodman furnace wont light, ignitor suspected. Notice.

carrier igniter


Posted on Dec 01, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: I have a problem with

Buy a new ignitor either from the ignitor store online, or your local distributer, Contracter, dealer.. they usually run from 15 dollars to 35. Their simple to change out and deffinite do it yourselfer... Oh and turn off power at breaker panel, you don't need any unexpected surprises!!

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

hiltonjug
  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: Goodman furnace wont light, ignitor suspected

Notice. I do not mind helping diagnose furnaces although I try to be cautious when giving advice on them. Please bare with me if I ask question. I don't want anyone burning their house down or hurting themselves and a furnace will do both.

You stated that you get a steady 4.9v then the fan turns off. Which fan are you speaking of? Also, the igniter should read 3.8 ohm's if it's good. The furnace should be sending 120 v to the igniter.
I'm not sure the igniter is the problem unit I receive a reply from question.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Trying to wire RUUD gas furnace. connection block

No problem have done this many times. R from the t-stat goes to R on the indoor unit. G goes to G Y goes to Y and C goes to C if you have a C or the t-stat the you are using. If there is no C there dont worry about it. It only need to be hookup if the t-stat uses power from the unit to run. Many t-stats today use battery power and do not need the C wire hooked up. Now R and C from the outdoor unit. R goes to the Y on the indoor unit and C goes to C on the indoor unit. That means that you may have two wires under the Y terminal and sometimes under the C terminal on the indoor unit. If on the outdoor unit there is no designation of R and C dont worry, just hook one wire to each of the two wires there for your low voltage connection. It does not matter which one goes to which unless they are marked then it may matter.
This should get you up and running and see it really isn't that hard!! :-)

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you very much! I have been searching the inernet for hours to find a manual or diagram. Got a response within 15 minutes of posting. "

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: I have Rudd hot air

Hi, Check the flame sensor next to the pilot. It should be a ceramic rod with a metal tip that rests in the pilot flame. It may be dirty. Clean the tip with steel wool real good and make sure it is in the pilot flame good. This will cause that condition to happen. If this doesn't take care of it, get back to me and we will go from there. Should solve you're problem. Merry Christmas,
Shastalaker7

Posted on Dec 25, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Rudd furnace

Well first you want to verify that there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Turn off the valve and disconnect the connector. Then turn on the valve for 1 second and back off. You should get plenty of gas flow. Be careful doing this!. Then inspect the opening at the adapter to the control. There is a screen inside there. Make sure the screen is clear(not plugged with pipe dope,lint ect). When the igniter reaches the 2200 degrees you should hear the gas solenoid valve click open releasing gas. If you hear it click and no gas is released you will need to inspect the burner orfices. The orfice has an extremely small hole and there is a posibillity that they are plugged with debris. You will need to use a very small wire(like a tie strap) and insert it into each hole and see if there is anything in the orfice. If you do not hear the gas valve click then it might not be getting the signal it needs due to a weak igniter or flame rectification sensor. Does your furnace have a stand-by pilot that is lit by the hot surface igniter or does the igniter directly light the burner assembly?

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

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1 Answer

Heater will not ignite


  1. Do you have a standing pilot style heater = Milivolt
  2. or is it an IID = Spark style ignitor
  3. Or... Hot surface Ignitor = glows red hot like an auto cigarette lighter?

Most common problem I have come across over the last few weeks, is pressure switch not closing, meaning - dirty filter. Try cleaning your filter: backwash or rinse cartridges.

  1. is pilot staying on, and burning well?
    1. If so, is htr's gas valve in ON position?
  2. Do you hear sparking?
    1. If No, then one of the safety switches is keeping heater from firing...
      1. Toggle switch - on/off
      2. Thermostat - turned up high?
      3. Pressure switch - closes circuit when pump comes on
      4. 2 each high limits
      5. Fusible link / roll out switch
    2. If yes, either gas valve is off, is bad or the Ignition module is bad? Some call it grey box.
      1. You will need to test for voltage at the common and MV posts of the gas valve - 24 to 28 volts. If voltage = bad gas valve; if no voltage = bad IID Module (Intermittent Ignition Device)
  3. Do you see a bright red glow in the burner tray area?
    1. If yes, either fuel supply is off, or Ignitor has worn out and the glow is not hot enough to ignite raw fuel.
    2. If no, check voltage at Ignitor - depends on make and model of heater- could be as low as 24 volts and as much as 110 volts. So... No voltage at the supply wires = bad sending component, again depend on brand and model, could be ignition module, could be circuit board?
    3. If yes voltage, bad Ignitor
      1. Again, this is if fuel supply is confirmed.
Good Luck

May 08, 2015 | Teledyne Laars Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater...

1 Answer

There is no spark on the starter, does it have to be replaced ?


There are many possibilites.....before you assume the ignitor is bad, you first have to make sure the control board is going through all proper steps to provide power TO the ignitor. There could be one of the limit switches open causing an ignition failure...you could have an open pressure switch causing a failure....you could have a flu blockage causing one of the pressure switches to not close properly...you could have a defective combustion air fan or an extremely dirty combustion air fan blade not moving enough air for the pressure switch to close....the list goes on and on...

If you can verify the control board is going through its proper sequence AND you have access to a voltmeter, analog or digital, simply unplug the two wires in the wiring harness going to the ignitor IF its a glow coil style and plug in the voltmeter on the proper scale to read 120 volts. If the control goes through the proper steps AND you have voltage at the wires to the glow coil after the predetermined "pre-purge" sequence of the cycle is completed (usually 30 seconds or a little more) the ignitor is in fact BAD. The glow coil voltage will only be there for approximately SIX seconds so be ready.

If you have electronic spark ignition and not a glow coil ignitor, you have to verify that 24v is getting to the proper terminals on the ignition module when the thermostat is calling for heat. If so, the ignition module is more than likely the culprit, because it is not generating the high voltage to send to the electronic igniter. And it is HIGH VOLTAGE too and will zap the bejesus out of you !!!! Do not hold the high voltage wire leaving the ignition module during any portion of this process !!!!

As always, if you feel you are in over your head, remember that you probably are and you may need to call a competent service tech to trouble shoot and repair for you....

Also remember that gas and electricity are the things that make a furnace heat and improper technique around the two could have a seriously deadly outcome.



Dec 24, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a Lennox furnace Model G19 and the pilot will not light.e You get the normal clicking sound and the ignitor lights but it seems to be a very small flame and the pilot does not light. The ignit


probably need a new control board. so it sparks but gas not coming on? usually you will hear a click then hear gas coming out. if you have a voltage meter check voltave going to gas valve while ignighter is clicking if you have voltage bad gas valve. you should read about 24 volts at gas valve.

Mar 09, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi there. there is no spark to ignite the gas in oven.


You will need to replace the spark module if you don't hear any clicking, or there is no spark present when trying to ignite the gas.

To test the Spark Module:
When properly operating, the spark module repeatedly produces a spark at the ignitor accompanied by a sharp snapping sound.
  1. Turn off gas and power supply to unit.
  2. Check wiring diagram to verify all terminals and wire connections are correct and tight with no cuts in the wiring.
  3. Prepare to measure voltage on spark module from terminal L to N.
  4. Turn power supply back on.
  5. Turn top burner to LITE position.
  6. If no voltage is present on the meter, this will indicate the electrical circuit is interrupted before the spark module
  7. If voltage is present, then check ignitor.
  8. If ignitors are ok; then replace spark module.
To access the Spark Module:
  1. Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
  2. Disconnect gas and power from unit.
  3. Remove screws securing top surface burners.
  4. Remove surface burner and disconnect spark ignitor wire from surface burner.
  5. Raise and remove maintop from unit.
  6. Remove screws securing spark module bracket.
  7. Disconnect wire terminals from spark module.
  8. Replace and reassemble in reverse order.

May 18, 2011 | Amana Ovens

1 Answer

WIRED AND INSTALLED NEW IGNITOR BOARD ;CHECKED CONTROLS, VOLTAGE AND GROUNDING,BUT I HAVE NO SPARK. WHY?


After replacing all that I would be checking the safety items. There are two to three depending upon model. These look like buttons with two wires one in one out most brands the wires are purple, using a volt ohm meter check for continuity they are normally closed contacts so should ring out like a dead short. These if open will not permit the furnace to start up. Newer furnaces will also have a sensor on the exhaust fan as well it will be normally open until the fan comes in then it closes and permits ignition. Good luck if this does not help you it may be time for the furnace technician.

Dec 13, 2010 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I AM WORKING ON A CARRIER 90% FURNACE. IT WILL NOT FIRE UP. IT SHOWS A 34 CODE. THE IGNITOR DOES NOT ENERGIZE FROM THE BOARD. NO POWER COMING FROM THE BOARD. I HERE A CLICK AS IF IT IS TRYING BUT NO...


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Nov 25, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a rudd hot air gas furnace,ignitor sparks


to carmelmontgo; do you have a smart gas valve sometimes the wire connections get loose. remove wire connector then reinstall. also cleaning a flame sensor will work if the flame sensor is good. I would check the ground connection sometimes contaminated with rust. also I would check the gas pressure with a gas manometer...my email is alpharomeo@windstream.net

Jan 20, 2010 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

No ignition


Yes. Gas ignitors either spark or glow. Find a way to look at the ignitor, even if you have to use a mirror. If it sparks or glows, figure out why the gas isn't getting into contact with the ignitor. If it doesn't spark or glow, the ignitor is probably bad, but the controller might not be sending it electricity (bad controller). This is what electrical meters are for. Checking for voltage at the ignitor will tell you if the controller is telling it to ignite.

Jul 22, 2008 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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