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Pressure in captive air tank on water pump keeps rising

I checked and set the pressure in my captive air tank by the proper procedure to 40 pounds( shut off pump, drain system of all pressure , check tank pressure, set to 2 pounds below cut-in pressure of pump). After a short ime noticed that my water pressure would drop to almost nothing before the pump kicked on; a classic symptom of the pressure in the captive air tank being too high. When I checked the pressure in the tank again, by the same method (pressure drained from system) it read 55 pounds. I thought I screwed up so I readjusted the pressure to 40 pounds. The next day the same thing occurred. I checked the pressure in the tank (again, after draining the system) and the pressure was back above 50 pounds. Yesterday I set the pressure at 10 pounds. The water pressure in the house seems good now. I checked the pressure in the tank (again after draining the system pressure) and it's now at 13 pounds. Can someone please explain how the air bag is gaining pressure???

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a Flotec FP 4022-10 3/4 hp shallow well

If heating up, the motor thermal switch is opening to shut down the motor; this is by design. During the brief run time does it pump at all? It sounds as if there may be mechanical issues on the pump itself and the motor (from the extra draw) is heating up and shutting down. I'd look in to the pump to see if anything had failed within it.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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SOURCE: gould 1/2hp submergible well pump cycles on and

My first thought was that of a water logged tank which causes short cycling, from your notes the tank is good (the tank may be partially water logged though) If the tank is ok and your getting short cycling (and the switch is good) I would guess your check valve down the well has failed. As the pump creates pressure then shuts off the water may be going right back down the well causing the pump to cycle again. This could also account for the poor water pressure as the check valve may be stuck slightly open allowing the system to loose pressure but only allowing a small amount of flow by when running. There could be a leak within the pumps drop-pipe and your loosing pressure through this leak. I expect you'll have to have the pump pulled.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

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It sounds like your water holding tank needs air. You could just add some air and see if that helps. The proper way is to shut the power off going to the pump. Next open up a spigot until there is no water coming out. Then close the spigot. Now check the air pressure in the tank. Water tanks come with a tire valve installed, so all you need is a tire pressure gauge. There should be a label on the tank that will tell you how much the air pressure should be. As I recall, it should be around 38 lbs. But, that would depend on the pressure switch that is installed on your pump. A common one used is 40/60. To add air use an air compressor with a tire chuck. You could also use a bicycle pump. When the tank is at the correct pressure turn the power, going to the pump, back on. That's it. Additional info: Your tank should have an air valve located somewhere on the tank, usually on top. You add air the same way you add air to a tire. Through the air valve. If there is no valve, consider replacing the tank with a tank that does have a valve.

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Putting 60 lbs. of pressure in the pressure tank is not the answer.

First determine that the pump is working correctly, Open the drain valve and see if you get a good flow of water. If you do then OK, the pump is working. If you are not getting a good water flow from the drain valve, then the pump is not operating correctly - maybe a bad foot valve. Next open the drain valve and watch the water pressure gauge, and note at what pressure the pump kicks on ( that's the cut-in pressure), and when it kicks off ( that's the cut-out pressure). Most pumps are set to operate at 20-40 psi, or 30-50 psi. The cut-in and cut-out pressure is set by the water pressure switch.The pressure in the water tank has to be set 2 psi BELOW the cut-in pressure of the pump. That is, if the pump has a 20-40 psi differential, then the tank has to be pre-charged to 18 psi.

To pre- charge the pressure tank , the pump has to be shut off. The Tank needs to be emptied (drained ) of water. The air pressure is then set to 2 psi BELOW the cut-in pressure. If water escapes from the air valve, the bladder in the tank is ruptured, and a new tank needs to be installed.

So, first make sure the pump is working.
I WOULD RELIEVE MOST OF THE PRESSURE IN THE PRESSURE TANK TO ABOUT 20 PSI BEFORE CHECKING THE PUMP, AND PRCEEDING WITH THE PRE-CHARGE OF THE TANK.

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The 34 psi of the pressure tank sounds high, but it depends on what the cut-in pressure is set at in the pump pressure switch. Typically the pressure switch is for 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi. To establish what the pre-charge of tank should be , you need to establish what the pressure switch setting are (i.e 20 - 40 psi , etc.) Run the water and watch the pressure gauge and note at what pressure the pump comes on. The pressure tank needs to be pre charged 2 -4 psi below that cut-in pressure. So if the cut-in pressure is say 30 psi, then the tank needs to be pre charged to 28 psi.
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Sounds like the bladder is gone or inproper air pressure in water storage tank.

Bladder goes bad check it out with step 1
1-
One way to check for sure with everything hooked up. The air valve on top of the tank if pressed you will get water out of the valve which should be only air. This will let you know it should replaced.

If Tank bladder is low in air and not water coming out.

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