Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

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Whirlpool top load washer model #gst9679pw3 will not agitate or spin i hear a grinding noise when it trys to wash and spin. also tub or agitator will not turn.

Sounds like gears ir grinding when it try's to agitate or spin, inner tub and the agitator will not turn by hand either? please help

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  • etxknight
    etxknight Jan 09, 2013

    oh and it drains fine

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool ultimate care II topload washing machine

Well I'm going to do my best to fix your washer. First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain,and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps . Then facing the washer locate the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel and back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when your done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but its not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: washer won't drain, makes loud noise

This problem, or some variation thereof evidently is very common with these Whirlpool Washers!  I have same problem.  So far, best I have found is at  http://applianceguru.com/forum2/5958.html#
diagnosis by someone who knows.  What William Burk says there makes sense.  However, to get to the drive block there's quite a bit of disassembly required.  I am stopped because I cannot get the spanner nut off.  Hope this gives you some help toward finding a more comprehensive answer



Posted on Jul 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Whirlpool washer won't agitate or spin . But it does drain the water.

i also had the same problem, and it ended up being the coupler. It was not hard to replace, it cost me about 19.00. I didn't follow full recomende instructions. I tipped the washer backwards. Removed the drain pump and the motor itself. Then I removed the old coupling and placed the new one. The washer is working like new...

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

honeymokey
  • 3113 Answers

SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL TOP LOAD WASHER MAKING GRINDING NOISE FOR AGITATION

When you put the motor in did you replace the coupler between the motor and transmission? When fixing the agitator you need to get the agitator repair kit, It has seals, dogs,thrust plate, cam bearing and seals. The upper agitator is supposed to move only in one direction to get the clothes to move down towards the agitator. Do not overload machine. I have one of these and after 12 years I finally had to install this upper repair kit because the upper agitator quit moving. You may have an agitate cam that is going bad inside the transmission

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool ultimate care II top load skips agitation turns

I have the same problem, and i think it is a problem with the agitator i pulled mine off, (remove softener insert below that is a seal easily removed and then a 7/16'' bolt) seems a 'clutch' mechanism between base and upper agitators is shot.

Posted on Oct 16, 2009

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I have a Whirlpool Gold washer (MOD# GSQ9669LW0). The washer makes a grinding noise below when in operation. Spins when agitating, but not in rinse mode. Water still pumps out in final spin.


This machine can get items stuck in the drum, the bearings can go bad etc. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/38-5-620929-/Whirlpool-Washer-won-t-spin-GSQ9669LW0.

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I have a top load fridgidaire washer model fwsc445rfs0. During the wash cycle it makes a high pitched scraping noise.... Struggles also while it winds down before rinse. Bearing maybe?


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Loud constant noise (metal on metal clicking / whirring / grinding) during spin cycle


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Nov 22, 2013 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Dec 08, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Won"t spin or agitate. Makes a loud rattling noise


If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Roper, Estate, Kenmore, Amana, and Frigidaire), you may have a damaged or broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loading washers use a motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission) in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as "direct-drive". The coupling can break through normal wear and tear. Washing frequent loads of heavy items and reduce the life span of the coupler. Common symptoms include the following:

1. No spin or agitation.
2. Washer will fill and empty.
3. Drive motor still runs.
4. Strange rattling, grinding or clicking noise during agitation or spin cycles as the drum sits still.

If your washer is exhibiting these symptoms, then its probably a safe bet that the motor coupling is bad.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number for a replacement motor coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also included helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Dec 17, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Rubbing noise from agitator in top load kenmore washing machine


I can't find your model number on the Sears Parts Site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

However.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive, Neutral Drain washer, the problem could point to the transmission "Agitate Cams".

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The agitate cams are used to raise the agitate gear above the connecting rack during the spin cycle.

Following is a Whirlpool parts list for commercial versions of these washers although the consumer model uses the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See part # 62580 (About $15.00)

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

See the following for how to pull the transmission. You don't have to remove the tub!!

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=962131af4fd992034867327e32162166


Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds like a complicated job but it really isn't and certainly less expensive that a $170 transmission.



Nov 15, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

At the end of the spin cycle, my Kenmore Washing Machine makes a grinding noise like an out of balance brake drum. What could be the problem


If your washer model number starts with 110. it's a whirlpool washer. Whirlpool use a spin tube with two notches in it. There is a block assembly that holds the inner basket down on to the spin tube. This can be accessed by removing the top of the agitator and take out the 7/16 screw. Lift the agitator to expose the top of the spin tube. The tube is stripped on top where the basket sits. When the washer stops spinning, the inner basket keeps moving. That is the noise you hear. Replace the spin tube and possibly the block.

Oct 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

This Kenmore Elite Top Load Washing machine has


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This gets a little tricky.

It sounds as if, based upon the weight in the tub being reduced, the noise gets less. Something is pressing on something else due to the weight.

If you look at the gearcase parts section of the Sears site, you'll see parts called the agitate gear and agitate cam.

If the agitate cam wears (it's two plastic pieces) when the transmission moves to the spin cycle, the cam is supposed to lift the gear above it.

If it doesn't lift the gear high enough, you'll hear loud gear noise. This may lessen as the washer pumps water out and there is less weight on the spring.

We had the same problem with a washer and found that by replacing the cams, the noise went away.

Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Sep 26, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

WHIRLPOOL TOP LOAD WASHER MAKING GRINDING NOISE FOR AGITATION


When you put the motor in did you replace the coupler between the motor and transmission? When fixing the agitator you need to get the agitator repair kit, It has seals, dogs,thrust plate, cam bearing and seals. The upper agitator is supposed to move only in one direction to get the clothes to move down towards the agitator. Do not overload machine. I have one of these and after 12 years I finally had to install this upper repair kit because the upper agitator quit moving. You may have an agitate cam that is going bad inside the transmission

Jul 02, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

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