My amp just stoppped work and all the blade fuses are ok and I have checked that all the wireing is correct and it is. I pulled the cover off to look with a pen light tester, and I think that 2 out of 3 of the small black resisters/capacitators/fuses or what ever they are are shot because only the outside one will light up the pen light, are the other two supposed to work simultaniously to the outside, and is it worth it to track down replacements and have someone fix it?
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If your wires are hooked up correctly then it is possible you have blown a channel in your amp or head unit , the amp does have its own fuse but most do not have a fuse for each channel it either works or doesn't . Only other possibility is somehow the amp has been switched to mono .or "bridged" these settings are used when the amp powers only one channel or a subwoofer
Check the cigarette lighter fuse. This is what powers the DLC. If the fuse is good, check and see if the lighter works. If not, you have a bad wire. Code readers have to have power from the car. Most scanners have there own power and will read the computer, unless the data wire is bad or the computer is bad.
check all positive wires coming from battery sounds like you melted one and it's touching something it shouldnt, Thats what u smelled, clean and tape damaged wire(electrical tape) check wires behind fuse block also
There is either a severe problem with this heater, or the circuit it is connected to is too small.
Generally, a heater will draw the most power in the first couple of minutes that it is on (going from room temperature to hot), and if the circuit is under sized, the circuit breaker will operate or fuse will open. Since the the receptacle / plug melted and the fuse opened, it suggests to me that the receptacle itself is "worn out". This can happen over the years of plugging and unplugging cords to it. The springy metal connections inside the receptacle have become fatigued and no longer squeeze the blades of the plug hard enough for a good connection. This results in heat at the connection point inside the receptacle.
Since the receptacle is melted, it should be replaced with a new one. The circuit should be protected with the appropriate size fuse. A circuit fed with #14 copper wire should have a fuse no larger than 15 amps; and a circuit fed with #12 copper wire should have a fuse no larger than 20 amps. Ever. The same applies for circuit breaker amp ratings.
Even if the plug on the end of the power cord of the heater hasn't melted or doesn't appear damaged, it should also be changed, as the excessive heat has changed the metal's conductive properties. The two blade plugs are polarized with one blade slightly wired than the other. You should make every effort to ensure the right wire is connected to the correct blade on the plug.
If you have any reservations about doing this work or if it happens again, you should contact a qualified electrician for professional analysis. I hope this helped and good luck!
Fuse 35 (40Amp) Front A/C blower motor, this is under the hood in the power distribution box, is it ok? if it is, the most likely problem is either the AC blower speed control module or the blower motor itself, jump 12 volts to the blower and see if it runs, if it does and the fuse is ok, replace the blower speed control.