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Cant reinstall motor transmission

I disassembled washer and replaced motor to drive coupling but now can not get drive shaft to go all the way into machine

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Wood Block and mallet it will go!

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Whistling


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

Jul 22, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 23032 top load direct drive washer will not agitate or spin, but still does drain - is this the clutch or drive motor?


no replace coupling # 285753 double shafted drive motor ... coupling attatches motor to transmission look for black rubber and off white plastic chuncks under washer.......

Jan 31, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

KAWS750L Washer; motor runs, no drive to transmission. Have the sides off and looking at motor assembly at bottom. How do you access the broken part between motor and transmission?


That's the drive coupling that is broke you will have to remove the 2 clips that hold the water pump on that has the 2 black hoses going to it then slide the pump straight off the motor shaft. Next you will need to remove the 2 screws going onto the two other clips holding the motor to the transmission then remove the 2 clips and the motor will come off replace the drive coupling with a new one might need a socket and hammer to put new drive coupling ends on make center metal bearing even with motor shat and shaft coming out if the transmission and put the rubber boot on the transmission and replace the motor and clips same order as taking it off hope this helps and good luck.

Jan 06, 2011 | KitchenAid KAWS750L Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer will not agitate, you can hold the shaft still and the motor still turns. The coupling looked in good shape. Whats up?


Hi, if your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
  • Lid switch
  • Motor coupler
  • Belts
  • Clutch
  • Drive motor
  • Drive pulleys
  • Transmission
  • Agitator

Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems: Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all. The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem. If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

Nov 27, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Agitator and spin did not work on final spin cycle--pump works--11 year old washer--is it worth trying to fix?


yeah this is an easy fix drive couple it connects the motor to the transmission cost about 9 dollars if you do the job yourslef simpl unpug the machine
remove the front cover that covers the drum
feel around inbetween the motor and the transmission you should feel a rubber bushing with three teeth if these teeth are busted in which they usually are then you replace your drive couple and u go about that by
removing the retainin clips around your pump then moving pump to the side no need to disconnect fully. next remove the upper and lower screws holding the retaining clips on the upper and lower part of the motor. disconnect wireing harness. then use a flat screwdriver to lift on the upper retaining clip and do oppiste on lower one make sure you hold the motor up with one hand while doing this then remove motor you will see the rubber bushing as well as the plastic drive couple ( note make sure when you order the new drive couple it is the one with the metal shaft ring and not the 100 percent plastic one or ull be doing the same job within two years putting it back together is easy just align the drive couple on the rear shaft and lightly tap it back onto the shaft use a 1/2 or 9/16 deep well to do this then align the rubber bushing next is to align the other part of the couple onto the motor and reinstall the motor then reinstall the pump then reconnect the harness to the motr then put your cover back on and your machine is done hope this helps

Jun 25, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer won't spin


Hello,this is usually a very common problem I have listed all of the possiable reasons and the troubleshooting solutions for you to check ok so just follow the soluition and click on the item mentioned : Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley. The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

Thanks

May 22, 2010 | GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My RAS8244LQO Rober washer won't spin . Can you


Usually a drive coupling or lid switch assembly, if this is a Roper washer. If you put the timer on spin and turn it on, it runs but wont spin then it is a coupling 99% of the time. If it wont start in spin then check your lid switch. This washer has a very cool design to get into the mechanism. The top console flips up, usually you have to take out two screws on each of the front corners and then pull the console forward and up until it flips upside down. Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and take a large flat screw driver and stick it into the left and right hand slots that have the brass retainer clips . You stick the screwdriver straight down and then pry the clips out by pushing back on the screwdriver. Remove both clips, grab the outer washer cabinet and tip it towards you, at a 45 degree angle you can slide the front of the cabinet out from under the base and remove the whole cabinet. Now you will need to remove the water pump, two clips, leave the hoses on, the motor has two clips that sometimes has two screws holding the clips on. Unclip the motor wiring and remove the motor. You will see the drive coupling, three parts, one rubber cushion with 6 holes and two round discs with three fingers. The two discs are attached to the motor shaft and the transmission shaft. Usually you will see broken fingers, worn holes or cracked plastic when you have a bad coupling. You need to remove the plastic parts from the shafts, and install the new coupling by tapping them onto the shaft. I usually use a long 3/8 inch extension and a light hammer to tap the coupling on untill the coupling is flush with the shaft. Install the black cushion onto the transmission disc, line up the motor disc with the cushion holes, install the bottom motor clip first, and then the top motor clip. This ususally requires some strong thumbs to clip the top motor clip on. Reinstall the pump, the cabinet. Make sure the cabinet is on the side rails in back. Reinstall the cabinet clips, plug your lid switch wiring back in and reinstall the console. Good Luck.

Appliance Specialists

Dec 10, 2009 | Roper RAX4232KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmor 80 series washer will not drain.


Does the washer run at all? If so, does it agitate? If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but would not agitate or spin.

What can happen, however, is the drain pump can become lodged with something causing it not to spin (underwire bra hoops, socks and underwear are usual culprits). This, in turn, will cause the drive motor shaft to "round out" the slot that the drive motor shaft inserts into on the back of the drain pump. The drive motor will then just free spin and the pump will not pump anything. The following link gives advice on how to replace a motor coupling (which I don't think you need), but you can refer to it for all the steps necessary on how to disassemble the washer to check everything:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

To answer your question, the motor coupling is located between the back of the drive motor and the gearcase (transmission). It is comprised of two plastic pieces with tines with a rubber bushing sandwiched in between them. The reason the washer will still drain if the coupler was bad, is because the drive motor drives the drain pump and doesn't use the coupler.

Another potential problem could be a drive motor that is seized. With the motor removed from the washer, you should be able to free spin the shaft. The associated starter capacitor on the motor can also go bad, causing the motor not to start.

Read through the link I provided and go back and verify that you have the lid switch installed correctly. I'm not second guessing your abilities, I just want to ensure you don't go through a bunch of unnecessary steps. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate on your symptoms a bit more so I can get a full understanding. I hope this helps you.

Jun 12, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing Machine Shaft Wont Move


If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

It's noisy Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.

Dec 08, 2008 | Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

1 Answer

Not spinning


The problem could be a attributed to a broken motor coupling and/or defective gear case (transmission). Since the motor coupling is the easier of the two repairs and least expensive, I would recommend checking the motor coupling first. Here's the steps required to check and replace a bad motor coupling:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a ***** under each end cap that You will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, You will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade *****driver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the *****driver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES in place and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a *****driver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a *****driver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. Often, the plastic tines shear off, the rubber bushing rips, or the center hole on the drive shaft rounds out causing the coupling to slip. Replace the coupling if this is the case. You may have to use a *****driver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.

10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

17. Reinstall console.

I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. A new motor coupling should cost less that than $20. Post back if you need further assistance.

Mar 09, 2008 | Estate TAWX700JQ Top Load Washer

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