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Maytag MED9600SQ0 Dryer, no heat

No heat comming from dryer. Heating element, high limit, thermal fuse and thermostat all have continuity. Thermistor has appropriate resistance. Checked the electronic control module and it has appropriate resistance. Dryer runs fine, timer works, just no heat. Exhaust vent recently cleaned 3 months ago and blower pipe to exterior just replaced as well. Out of ideas at this point.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag dryer: pye2300ayw

I had the same problem last month. My heater element broke in two places. This created an electrical open that prevented the heater from functioning. I replaced the heater element and my problem was solved.

In order to check your heater element: With the machine unplugged, disconnect one wire to the heater element and then use an ohm meter or multimeter across the heater element lugs to read resistance. Infinite ohms = open circuit.

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • 300 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag MDG5500 - heat goes off after several minutes

Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Thermal fuse in Maytag PYE2300AYW not plugged in

NO. YOU ARE OK YOUR DRYER SHOULD ONLY HAVE A HIGH-LIMIT AND A CYCLING THERMOSTAT. YOU CAN LOOK AT YOUR DRYER PARTS AT www.repairclinic.com ENTER MODEL NUMBER SCROLL DOWN ALL THE WAY CLICK THE RED 100 AND SEE ALL.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

cooper0365
  • 347 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer overheating

have u replace heating sensor

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements

Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.

When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.

I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.

There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)

Wish ya the best.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.

Posted on Apr 10, 2010

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How to fix Maytag dryer MED9600SQ0


Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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Jan 26, 2016 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer not heating


Thank you for your inquiry, friend!

Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire dryer is not heating. This could be a potential issue with your heating element, timer, or thermostat. In order to accurately check each part you would need to disassemble your dryer and test each piece for the proper continuity. This is not a simple DIY job and I would highly suggest contacting a professional technician comes out for proper diagnosis and repair. Best of luck! -Matt

Apr 20, 2015 | Frigidaire Dryers

3 Answers

Dryer spns but there is no heat


probally the heeting element

Mar 10, 2015 | Samsung Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore he2 spins but won't heat. new thermistor installed due to no continuity,. thermal fuse, heating element , high limit thermostat all have cintinuity. whats my next move?


The heater could be giving you a false reading, did you actually remove the heater and touch each section with you finger to find a break. I will help you more if you need it, also make sure you have 220 volts to your dryer

Feb 01, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Maytag dryer is not heating up. It runs fine. Model PY2300AYW


Hi peaseg13...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Sep 09, 2011 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Dryers with lint filter on the front.

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Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

My CDT40 is not heating when used and when I press the option lights, they flash once then go off


Check the bias thermostat on the blower wheel housing, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, and heating element on the back of the machine for continuity with a multimeter. Replace any of the mentioned parts with new one form the parts list below. Below is a video to show you how to check for continuity. The dryer is a little different, but the principles are the same.

Bias Thermostat Thermal Fuse High Limit Thermostat Heating Element

Dec 30, 2010 | Hotpoint NBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

For Dryer Model LER7646EQ1, dryer runs but no heat, It could be the heating element, the thermal fuse or other. Also the dryer has been running hot.I do not know how to remove the front panel


This sounds like a faulty thermal fuse or heating element. The fact that you said the dryer has been running hot could indicate that the heating element was making contact with the heater box or the high limit thermostat is faulty. Both the thermal fuse and heating element can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter and checking for continuity. A lack of continuity means a faulty component. When necessary to replace a thermal fuse it is best to change the high limit thermostat as well. They will sometimes come as a set from a parts supplier. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.


Sep 23, 2009 | Whirlpool LER7646E Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer does not heat ellement is good


If the dryer won't heat and the heating element is good, then check the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. The thermal fuse is located just inside the rear of the dryer and is mounted on the exhaust duct. Test it for continuity using a multimeter. A lack of continuity indicates a blown thermal fuse. '
The high limit thermostat is a small round, black device mounted on a metal plate and attached to the internal ductwork with two screws. It can be tested for continuity. It should have none. If it has continuity it is faulty. I am attaching a photo of the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

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Aug 09, 2009 | Dryers

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