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Hi can anyone help have a beko drvs62w sensor dryer have replaced the heating element and still only luke warm it appears the heat is not getting into the drum can anyone point me in the right direction thank shay

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm

Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

Posted on Aug 23, 2007

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel DEGX2 Dryer. Need heating element changed?

I had the same problem. Everyone continued to tell me that I needed a new heating element, clean lint trap, etc. However, I took the front off of the dryer and located the heating element. On the front of the heating element, in between two wires, there is a red button. Push the button and you might hear a click that sounds similar to a circuit breaker. It is a reset button for the heating element. Try that and it might help.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat

The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

hektor1961
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: GE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT

Yes, the whole drum needs to be removed:
Before you go trough this make sure you know for sure your elements need replacement by checking for continuity at both element terminals.
Make sure you do the same with your high limit thermostat on housing.
How to remove the drum?:
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to remove the drum. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.
Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.
If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. With the plate removed, you will be able to see the drum support shaft and the e-ring (circlip) holding the shaft in place. Use a small screwdriver to remove the e-ring. You may also want to use a magnet to keep the circlip from falling into the dryer. You will also find several metal and nylon shims between the bearing and the e-ring, inside the bearing, and between the bearing and the drum. Take careful note of how they come off so that you will be able to put them back on again in the right order.
Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.
Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer. With the front panel removed, lift the drum and slide it out of the dryer.
NOTE: In some models, you will have to remove the dryer drum glides before you can remove the drum. Also, now that the interior of your dryer is completely exposed, it might be a good time to vacuum out all of the dust and lint that has built up in there.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Roper gas

You have a bad thermostat, flame sensor, thermal fuse, gas valve solenoids, or the high limit thermostat. Below is a video to walk you thru the diagnostic testing and repair.


Posted on Jan 03, 2011

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