Question about Air Tools & Compressors
Need a trigger assembly
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Both of these nailers have a check seal about half way down on the cylinder. This check seal causes the piston to retract if the piston ring is not too worn. The lower bumper should not be cracked and missing pieces, and the driver guide washer must be in place below the bumper. Also check that the driver is not bent causing it to get stuck. The da250b has an upper bumper of sorts and developes cracks that can only be seen by removing and inspecting, If cracked, the upper bumper must be replaced for proper function. The bn125a nailer probably has the discharge port clogged or upper valve parts worn or cracked. The headvalve should be inspected for cracks where the oring fits and the rubber seal should fit snug on the valve. There is a spring that pushes down in the headvalve that pushes from a rubber washer of sorts, check the diagram to be shure that all parts are in order. Both of these guns will not take too much pressure. Try adjusting to about 90 lbs max.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
Your tva11 valve can be repaired easily if you have a source for orings. I purchase orings from several companies including lowes (in plumbing dept sold in 10 pack for about dollar), www.grainger.com (oring kit metric, cost about $10) harbor freight (oring kit about $5), also orings are sold by size at bearing companies. I have repaired many of these valves by just cleaning debris and lubing with silicone paste (sold at lowes in plumbing dept used for lubing faucet orings). To attempt repair of valve, remove nails, remove roll pin that holds trigger (3mm) to expose tva11 valve. Mark position of valve in body of gun because the retaining pins fit thru an indention in the valve. Next remove roll pin/s that hold tva11 valve, they are just above the valve in the body of the gun(3mm x 30mm). You will need to apply air pressure to gun to remove the valve, however use heavy glove to catch valve because it can come out with force. (try lowering air pressure to gun for this procedure. With valve in hand, use marker to mark position of inner part in relation to outer, remove the two pins that hold valve together. Push out the inner cylinder and look at the middle oring(usually the problem, could be loose or cut) , If cut or loose replace and lube with silicone paste and re-assemble. Check outer orings for nicks, replace as necessary (usually good). Clean valve port, lube port, then re-install valve into gun and insert temporary retaining pin and test for leak. You should be good to go. Good luck and email if you have questions.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
The dent in the wood is not caused by the air. It's caused by the set that drives the brad. Are you oiling it consistenly? Are the brads the right manufacturer for your porter cable brad nailer? From the information you give it appears that the brads are not advancing correctly or that the air pressure is not sufficient to dislodge the brad from the brad strip on the first strike - it takes an additional strike to break it free. The standard for adding oil is to add ten drops of air tool oil for every hour of operation. That seems like a lot, but the correct amount of oil is a sure way to prevent most air tool problems.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. I was not oiling it at that rate. Is there anything I can do to fix the issue now that I didn't prevent it?"
Your nailer uses a trigger valve part # tva6 (or tva1, but use tva6) (cost about $20) and is sold at www.bostitch.com or ebay for generic. If you have a source for orings, you could try to repair the valve. Remove the roll pin that holds the trigger to expose the tva6 valve. There are roll pin/pins that hold the valve in just above the valve in the body (Use punch for 3mm hole). Remove these pins and apply air pressure to gun to pop-out the valve. Use caution when you do this. Remove nails, lower pressure to gun and use glove or rag to catch valve because it could come out with force. Note the two grooves on the side of the valve where retainer roll pins hold valve. Remember to insert the valve with these two groves aligned with path of roll pins. With tva6 valve in hand remove two pins that hold valve together and remove inner plunger. The middle oring/seal on plunger is cause of leak. Try using an oring with smaller inside diameter than the broken or loose fintting seal that is present. It must fit pretty tight and be slightly thicker than 1/16" to work. Remove the outer orings to valve and clean and re-use same. Clean the valve port in body of gun and check for sharp edges to prevent cutting orings before inserting the valve. Use silicone lube or oring lube on the orings and the valve port (Danco silicone paste sold at Lowes in the plumbing department). Good Luck on your repair and email if you have other questions
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
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