Question about Rival CZF530 Deep Fryer

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T-fal 4017 deep fryer will not turn on

Power is not getting to the heating element. There is power past the switch but not to the element. No power light.

To me is sounds like a thermal coupler of some kind. Cannot find any parts list for this machine.

Can you help?

Thanks

Jmoo

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  • 173 Answers

The reset switch is a miss print in the manual. call this number 1-800-557-4825 they will replace it for free if it is still under warranty

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

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1 Answer

Why won't it start?


I copied and pasted this answer from your other question as I thought it was the same one Sherry.... Hope it helps you.

It should automatically restart.....BUT what happened is that when you unplugged it, you cut off the blower at the same time you cut off the heat element(s). The way it is supposed to work, is the thermostat cuts power off to the elements and the fan continus to run for a per-determined amount of time to remove al the heat from the elements. Then another 'fan control switch' shuts off the fan once the 'residual' heat is removed from the heater. Without that 'cool down' cycle, the hot element had enough 'residual' heat in it to trip off the 'thermal overload' in the circuit. The 'thermal overload'... or...'hi limit'...or...'hi temperature control' is resposible for shutting power off to the element(s) in the event that the blower fails.

Sep 24, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Just replaces heating element in GE dryer. Dried one load but does not work, now. Light works, so it has power. Suggestions?


I would check the thermal fuse or thermostat. If the thermal fuse is blown check for obstructions in your vent then replace. For a video on testing these components go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html scroll down to troubleshooting an electric dryer.

Mar 18, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Heater continues to run when motor has stopped


It sounds like you have a grounded heating element. If the dryer can be turned off but the heating element continues to get hot, that indicates a grounded heating element. Be Very Careful. There could be power running thru the dryer case. I would unplug the machine and check out the heating element. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Aug 22, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

No heat in dryer model # 96591420


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jul 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Not getting power


Sounds like maybe a door switch, thermostat or the thermal fuse. You can check for continuity across the terminals with dryer unplugged. Usually the thermal fuse and thermostats are located by the heating element

Apr 04, 2009 | Whirlpool LEQ9858L Electric Dryer

1 Answer

NO POWER


there are 4 electrical parts
1 switch
2 thermal switch (keeps heater at around boiling temperature)
3 thermal fuse (will break if thermal switch gets stuck on, to prevent fire)
4 heating element (the hotplate and surrounding tube that boils water)

since the switch lights and hot plate is not hot then it is #2,3 or 4 that is not working.
it is most likeley the thermal switch which is not too expensive to replace.

check the thermal switch by disconnecting it from the wires. at room temperature the thermal switch should be closed. test with a meter set on resistance.

if it is not that check the thermal fuse in the same way, it should also be closed.

if those test ok and the heating element is bad (doubtful) then get another machine and save this for parts

Mar 21, 2008 | Braun Aromaster KF 400 Coffee Maker

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