Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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Washer will operate properly except for spin makes grinding noise

I have unbolted transmission from bottom of tub, but can not get it to drop the rest of the way..help...and can you tell me what part I am lookin for? please

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  • Expert
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You need a special tool to get the transmission to drop. When you remove the agitator you will see a threaded spot where a round washer is. It takes a special tool that fits around that to loosen it. You can't drop the transmission without this tool. If you tell me what is going on though I may be able to tell you what the problem is before you go and get that tool. It may not be the transmission that is the problem. There are other parts that make the spin have problems.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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You gotta take the agitator out to get the tranny to come on out. You can inspect the clutch by using a big old pair of water pump pliers. Just squeeze the spring and the clutch lining will come right out.While you have the tranny out take alook at the ear on the brake cam release. It may be broken off and thus not releasing the brake and tub. Gee you are sure deep into that puppy ain't you? While you are at it go ahead and pop the cover off the tranny and inspect the main drive gear for wear. Lift t out and inspect the spin pawl , if it looks all smashed down the tranny won't spin. What did you say you probo was in the first place? LOL

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

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I replaced the coupler between gear box and moter and the cogs in the agitator now when spinning out the washer makes grinding noise


Murph!

Good job on the coupler and agitator cam! Way to go!

Now for the grinding noise... I assume that it wasn't making that noise before you worked on it, right? (except for the noise it makes when the coupler has failed. It make a kind of grinding noise, too.) So I'll assume that this is a different grinding noise.

2 things will cause this in "spin".

1.) Something is caught between the inner and outer tubs. Since you've had the cabinet off, you know that there is a perforated steel inner drum (the one with holes in it) and a plastic outer drum to contain the water. I've seen nails, paper clips, etc... get through the holes of the inner tub and get caught there. When the unit goes into spin, the object will spin along with the inner tub and rub the outer tub making a scraping/grinding noise.
To find out if this is the problem, remove the agitator again... yes the entire top and bottom portions of it. Now CAREFULLY inspect the inner tub and look for anything that may be stuck in the holes. It'll be small, so use a good flashlight.

2.) The "drive block" has cracked/broken and allowed the inner tub to drop to the point that it's grinding on the outer tub base. This one is a bit more intense than the fix above. If you would, please verify that there's nothing in the inner tub before we proceed to the next step.
Note----> I don't doubt that you can't handle the next repair. It's just that I want to eliminate the simple stuff before moving to the more complex stuff.

Let me know what you find, OK? Also... BEFORE you remove the agitator, look at the distance between the bottom of the agitator and the base of the inner tub. Use your finger for measurement. You should NOT be able to fit the tip of your finger between the two. If you can, write back 'cause then we'll be going into the drive block (#2) repair.

SG
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