Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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Washer will operate properly except for spin makes grinding noise

I have unbolted transmission from bottom of tub, but can not get it to drop the rest of the way..help...and can you tell me what part I am lookin for? please

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You need a special tool to get the transmission to drop. When you remove the agitator you will see a threaded spot where a round washer is. It takes a special tool that fits around that to loosen it. You can't drop the transmission without this tool. If you tell me what is going on though I may be able to tell you what the problem is before you go and get that tool. It may not be the transmission that is the problem. There are other parts that make the spin have problems.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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You gotta take the agitator out to get the tranny to come on out. You can inspect the clutch by using a big old pair of water pump pliers. Just squeeze the spring and the clutch lining will come right out.While you have the tranny out take alook at the ear on the brake cam release. It may be broken off and thus not releasing the brake and tub. Gee you are sure deep into that puppy ain't you? While you are at it go ahead and pop the cover off the tranny and inspect the main drive gear for wear. Lift t out and inspect the spin pawl , if it looks all smashed down the tranny won't spin. What did you say you probo was in the first place? LOL

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
Bellows
The bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles.
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High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.


Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items inside out.

Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.

Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Vibrating noise--
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for details.
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange wash load.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee



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Murph!

Good job on the coupler and agitator cam! Way to go!

Now for the grinding noise... I assume that it wasn't making that noise before you worked on it, right? (except for the noise it makes when the coupler has failed. It make a kind of grinding noise, too.) So I'll assume that this is a different grinding noise.

2 things will cause this in "spin".

1.) Something is caught between the inner and outer tubs. Since you've had the cabinet off, you know that there is a perforated steel inner drum (the one with holes in it) and a plastic outer drum to contain the water. I've seen nails, paper clips, etc... get through the holes of the inner tub and get caught there. When the unit goes into spin, the object will spin along with the inner tub and rub the outer tub making a scraping/grinding noise.
To find out if this is the problem, remove the agitator again... yes the entire top and bottom portions of it. Now CAREFULLY inspect the inner tub and look for anything that may be stuck in the holes. It'll be small, so use a good flashlight.

2.) The "drive block" has cracked/broken and allowed the inner tub to drop to the point that it's grinding on the outer tub base. This one is a bit more intense than the fix above. If you would, please verify that there's nothing in the inner tub before we proceed to the next step.
Note----> I don't doubt that you can't handle the next repair. It's just that I want to eliminate the simple stuff before moving to the more complex stuff.

Let me know what you find, OK? Also... BEFORE you remove the agitator, look at the distance between the bottom of the agitator and the base of the inner tub. Use your finger for measurement. You should NOT be able to fit the tip of your finger between the two. If you can, write back 'cause then we'll be going into the drive block (#2) repair.

SG
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