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Need wiring diagram for kenmore electric dryer model # 110 . 86673100

Wanting to make sure wires going to high limit thermostat and heating element are connected probably.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101

I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: WIRING DIAGRAM

The following link explains the proper wiring scheme for installing a 220VAC power cord to an appliance:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Make sure you also have a dedicated outlet and power source for your dryer. This means a single outlet with a single circuit breaker. Most homes are constructed this way to ensure safe operation of the appliance and to prevent improper loading. If you have questions, please let me know.

As far as a wiring diagram is concerned, most manufacturers place a schematic drawing inside the operator console of the appliance for troublshooting purposes. I hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer model 110.62066102 electrical wiring diagram

contact manufacture.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

57 varieties
  • 1653 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore 80 series electric dryer. The

The best thing to do is a continuity check on the AC supply from the main supply through to the heating element and determine where the fault is.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

vostendorp
  • 347 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 70 series electric

Their are only a few things left. assuming you have 240 volts,120 on each leg going into unit, the operating thermostat could be the issue. another possibility but not as likely is the centrifugal switch on the motor. You may have to measure the voltage at the heating element on each wire going to the element to find out which lead has the incorrect voltage

Posted on Sep 21, 2010

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We think we need either ,a new heating elememt ,or a High limit thermostat ,is there some where I can get a diagram ,ofvthe workings of these areas


Heat circuit in dryers typically runs through timer, motor, heating element, operating thermostat, high limit thermostat, and thermal cut off. All of those can be checked with a meter. Also be sure there are no burnt or loose wires anywhere. And also be sure there is correct voltage going to dryer. And also be sure venting is clear from inside dryer to outside of house.

Oct 22, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Frigidaire model FDB1050 will not heat the water. The heating element checked out at bout 14 ohms but the approximately 8" wire from the heating element to what I think is a thermostat is slightl


Hello preslncon - The black button that you are referring to is more than likely the Hi-Limit Thermostat. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will open and stop power from reaching the heating element. The Hi-Limit is not resettable, and if it is open, it would need replacing. As far as the burnt wire on the Thermostat, more than likely a loose connection to the Thermostat could have possibly caused the wire to overheat. This is not a typical do it yourself job. Personally, I would recommend reaching out to a qualified appliance repair person to proceed further. I hope this information helps to some degree.

Apr 14, 2013 | Frigidaire 24 in. FDB1050REC Stainless...

1 Answer

Thermostat TRDO715 T


Could you give us some clues?-- like any indicator lights?-- are you willing to dig into the insides of the heater, and search out what might be open inside?
Here is a page I wrote for a previous problem similar to yours-- Possibly?


Well, if we have lights at the heater, then we know the wall receptacle and the appliance plug is fine, and the wire connecting it to the heater is fine-- So somewhere inside we have an open circuit.
Do you have a volt meter, to trace the power from where it comes in from the cord, thru the thermostat, and THRU A HIGH TEMPERATURE LIMIT DEVICE?

For likely -- either there is a High Temperature limit reset on the Thermostat (Like maybe pushing in on the dial, or rotating to maximum Counter Clock-wise-- or Clock-wise---- or a reset button?

Or there could be a high limit device inside, that looks like a small glass fuse-- but is actually a High Temperature Limit protector. (You will se Deg. C. stamped on it..)
Check for continuity across it.
If it is open,-- it needs to be replace-- Probably soldered into place?
Maybe your local Hardware can help you?-- or go back to the store you bought it at, and tell them what you found-- and get the part you need.

If all those switches and limit devices are OK-- can you find the heating element?-- It will be the bigger wires, and probably toward the bottom of the heater?

With the power cord pulled out of the wall-- can you check for continuity across the heating element? -- If you have an ohm meter-- you should be able to read in the 3- 8 ohms range.

Any charred wires?-- signs of overheating, or disconnected wires?-- Loose screws?

When you check these things out, get back with us, and let us know what you want to pursue next to continue trouble shooting your heater.

We want to help-- Give us more clues.

Mack B

Jan 26, 2011 | DeLonghi TRD0715T Oil Filled Radiator...

1 Answer

My 5600 lakewood heater is only 1 yr. old and will not come on, lights and all.


Good description of your Electric Heater problem-- thank you!

Well, if we have lights at the heater, then we know the wall receptacle and the appliance plug is fine, and the wire connecting it to the heater is fine-- So somewhere inside we have an open circuit.
Do you have a volt meter, to trace the power from where it comes in from the cord, thru the thermostat, and THRU A HIGH TEMPERATURE LIMIT DEVICE?

For likely -- either there is a High Temperature limit reset on the Thermostat (Like maybe pushing in on the dial, or rotating to maximum Counter Clock-wise-- or Clock-wise---- or a reset button?

Or there could be a high limit device inside, that looks like a small glass fuse-- but is actually a High Temperature LImit protector. (You will se Deg. C. stamped on it..)
Check for continuity across it.
If it is open,-- it needs to be replace-- Probably soldered into place?
Maybe your local Hardware can help you?-- or go back to the store you bought it at, and tell them what you found-- and get the part you need.

If all those switches and limit devices are OK-- can you find the heating element?-- It will be the bigger wires, and probably toward the bottom of the heater?

With the power cord pulled out of the wall-- can you check for continuity across the heating element? -- If you have an ohm meter-- you should be able to read in the 3- 8 ohms range.

Any charred wires?-- signs of overheating, or disconnected wires?-- Loose screws?

When you check these things out, get back with us, and let us know what you want to pursue next to continue trouble shooting your heater.

We want to help-- Give us more clues.

Mack B

Jan 26, 2011 | Lakewood Oil-Filled Electric Radiator...

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer does not heat . I'm sure i can replace what's broken , just need to know which part controls the heating.


cf551e5.jpgThe cycling thermostat controls the heat. Notice the 4 wires. Their 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The small wires operate a tine heater inside the control. If I want to dry knits I would heat that control up so that it would cycle at 130 degrees instead of 160 for cottons.Cycling thermostats rarely go out. They are always mounted on the blower housing. Those other themostat's you see near the element are high limits. Their is a 250f limit and a 300f limit and if they both fail their is a duct fuse which is rated at 350f and tied into the door circuit on electric dryers and gas assembly circuit on gas models.cf46369.jpg237451a.jpg9679563.jpg857d34a.jpg

May 22, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101


Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.

Dec 01, 2007 | Kenmore 72982 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Crosley Dryer Heats then stops


If im thinking right, this dryer has the element in the top left corner.  This unit has two thermostats, one mounted right above the element, and the other in the lower left front mounted on the fan housing.  The one in the front is called the high limit thermostat, which means when it gets to a preset high temp, it cuts off the system until cooling occurs.  The top thermostat, mounted above the element is the operating thermostat.  It probably is one of the two thermostats.  Its a very good idea to replace not only both of the thermostats, but the fuse as well.  The fuse kit (Maytag Part# LA-1053) comes with a thermostat and 2 fuses, be sure to follow he instructions on how to determine the fuse for electric and gas.  The high limit thermostat (Maytag Part# 53-0771) is an easy replacement.  Something is causing the unit to short cycle.  Sometimes you can hot-wire the operating thermostat (use caution, severe caution if doing this, not recommended if you arent sure whats going on).  By doing this (removing the two wires from the thermostat, taping them together), you can watch and see if the element stays on longer, at least until the high limit switch comes on.  This is really not recommended, if the high limit is out, it will not be good.  Just easier to replace them both.

Oct 24, 2007 | Crosley CDE6000 Electric Dryer

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