Question about Dryers
When i push the start button nothing happens.There's no sound when I push the buttton and it's plugged in and the circuit breaker for the dryer in the electrical panel hasn't been tripped.
The timer could have went out or maybe the door switch is stuck open
Posted on Jan 08, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off, be sure the pigtail is wired correctly to the back of the unit. Black and red to the outside terminals, white to the middle, green to the frame or cabinet (should be a green screw close-by). If that is ok, you probably have an issue with possibly a bad pigtail, bad outlet, wiring issue, or possibly a bad circuit breaker or breaker box. Probably going to be more of a electrical problem than a appliance problem. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.
I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.
In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
Regarding model LER5644EQ2, here is a link to a parts website complete with an assembly drawing and parts list. In all probability,you have a blown thermal fuse and that will need replacing http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Item #23 on the drawing .. a quick test would be to ( with power removed or disabled) measure the resistance across the two terminals and it should not be an open circuit or it is blown. The drawing shows exactly where it is and the parts list shows the item number/ cost and where to buy a replacement. Hope this helps..
Regarding model number is YLEQ5000PW1, you may have the same problem with your thermal fuse.. the parts website does not show a detailed darwing of your model but it should be similar to the other one I've cited in the location and thermal fuse.. The link I am sending is for the parts list for your washer and the thermal fuse.. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Let me know if that isn't the problem and we can look at other ways to zero in on a solution..
Hope this helps...
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
There is a micro switch on the door to stop the dryer when you open the door during normal operation. Unplug the dryer and locate the switch by visually inspecting around were the door contacts the dryer and identify if you can remove the switch without opening the dryer top. If you cannot remove the switch from the front try to access the switch by lifting the top of the dryer cover off. Unplug one of the wires and touch the wire connector you removed to the other connector on the switch using electrical tape to insulate and hold it in place. Plug the dryer in and see if it works. If it does you need to order and replace the switch. If it does not the start switch could be bad and you will need to test it with an Ohm Meter which will be the safest way to test the switch.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
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