Question about Kitchen Ranges
Hello. I needed a little help in replacing a Thermador Range Vent Hood Fan Switch. My Thermador model: VCK-1. I've also successfully removed my old switch which is made by KB Electronics, Inc. Model: KBWC-15, rated: 5.0A FLA & 14.5A LRA. Well I removed the switch and it only has 2-wires (Black & White)...now the new replacement switches don't have a black and white wire but instead has 2 Red wires only. How would I go about re-wiring a new switch. I've looked at various sites in finding right switch but same parts are expensive at one place and relatively affordable at others. Don't know what the difference is as they are produced by same manufacturer with same 5.0A FLA ratings. Please kindly explain how I should re-wire the new switch with 2 red wires instead of 1 white & 1 black. Thanks. This is the part I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLID-STATE-MOTOR-SPEED-CONTROL-KBWC-15K-/261150976405?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccdcfa995 Also there is a part sold by Sears/Repair Clinic but it costs about 5x more, for same model switch with same manufacturer.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hood slide controls
switches and slide control for speedlook integral from the circuit diagram. it is worth while getting the printed circuit board out and looking to see if the track is blown. if so this can ofted be repaired by soldering wire links over the damaged part of the track
Posted on Apr 16, 2007
SOURCE: Broken light switch on a Nutone
The Black 120vac Line In wire goes into "L". The Black wire goes into "2". The Red Wire goes into "3". When you install the switch, the Red and Black wires will be on top of the switch.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
I called King of Fans and the rep that I spoke with gave me the correct wiring for the 3 speed switch:
The problem is that after I wired it this way I am getting the same result (off on 3 settings and a motor hum on 1 setting). So, either the Westinghouse switch that I bought at Home Depot is not compatible or it is the capacitor. The saga continues.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.
If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.
You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.
Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.
Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.
This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.
Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.
You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.
I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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