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My central boiler 5036 draft is closing and reopening before it gets to desired temperature

My thermostat is set on 180. the stove draft closes and reopens repeatedly approximately every 3-5 minutes. when it closes the draft the lights dim like it is pulling more current

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It is most likely a loose wire or a bad controller. You should go to your local dealer that sold it to you to have it inspected and tested.

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

james3751
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SOURCE: Thermostat sensor is not reading correctly

No you need to change your t,stat. Go to home depot or Lowes and get one easy to install Any problems please get back to me I will walk you thru. Rus

Posted on Oct 29, 2009

  • 767 Answers

SOURCE: the thermostats current setting does not match the

Sounds like you have a problem with the furnace try turning the power off to the furnace and then turn it back on to see if this will get it to run. If it has a sight hole in the bottom door look to see if there is a flash code. then take off door and see what the flash code represents as the problem.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: thermostat does not follow the setting

If the thermostat is a digital /programmable you may want to recheck program to see if it has changed or been changed. If thermostat is not digital then it is prbably warn out and need replaced.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: thermostat does not shut off A/C at desired temperature

Sounds like a bad thermostat.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: Where can I get a free Central Boiler owners

www.managemyhome.com usually is a great place to find users manuals
Also www.homemanagement.services.officelive.com
has numerous other website links posted that may be of help.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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Taco 007 circulating pump stays on even though boiler shuts down


Don't know your specific unit, but in general, heating systems are two-stage devices:

1: Its too cold: the motorised HW/CH valve moved to the required position, and on achieving it, the circulaion pump starts and the boiler is enabled. (The circ pump may start immediately - its not usually important.) The hot water from the boiler circulates through the heat exchanger and/or radiators until the thermostat thinks its target is warm enough, whereupon it disables the boiler, stops the pump and closes/relaxes the valve(s).

2: The boiler is off while disabled. When enabled, it heats the circulating water to a 'high' temperature and seeks to keep it there. If it reaches that temperature, the boiler will cycle on and off as necessary to maintain the set 'high' temperature. (The circulation pump must run all the time the boiler is enabled.) This may be what you're noticing. Additionally, some boilers will run the circulation pump for a little while after being disabled to reduce the temperature if the water in the pipes and boiler.

Your question doesn't say how the pump running corresponds to thee thermostat settings, but if it were stuck on, I think you'd know!

Dec 31, 2016 | Water Heaters

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My central heating is set to max 20 degrees but we keep coming home to find house hotter than that. The thermostat is in the hallway, the boiler and froststat (latter newly replaced) are in the integral...


Hi Lyn,

Had the same problem with my system. turned out to be the thermostat in the hallway. Mine is an older electro-mechanical type with contacts that open and close as the temperature changes. (these type of thermostats click as you rotate the temperature dial) What had happened was the contacts had stuck closed even as the temperature rose and thus the boiler kept going. I cleaned the contacts with WD40 oil and everything is fine again. If you have the same type of thermostat this may be the problem. Be aware that if you or anyone else removes the cover of these thermostats there is live mains at the faulty contacts, be sure to switch off the circuit feeding this thermostat or remove/switch off the fuse in the main fuse box. Alternately you could replace the thermostat. If you have an electronic digital thermostat then this solution is not valid.

Good luck

Nov 24, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

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How do I set the thermostat on my powermax 155 boiler so that the heating comes into action on a lower temperature


You should have a remote heat setting via a wall or on the front of the boiler dependant upon how it is set up. If in doubt as a Central heating engineer to install a remote one you can have next to you wherever you are in the house.

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1 Answer

Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

Feb 02, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

The water does not get got enough. I replaced the thermostat, it did not resolve the problem. The water is still warm.


Did you replace the 95 deg thermostat or the 127deg thermal switch ?
Normal temperature control works like this, you turn on power and the boiler heats up. When it reaches 95 deg the thermostat will open and turn off power to the boiler, when it then cools down a little the thermostat will close and it will heat up again.
If the thermostat should fail in the closed position the boiler will continue to heat past 95 deg until it trips the 127 deg thermal switch which is a safety feature.
In your case maybe the 127 deg thermal switch is faulty and opening earlier than the 95 deg thermostat.

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Could be a lot of things, but the issue appears to center on the heating circulation system. Possible causes I can think of:
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