Question about Microwave Ovens
1st problem was heats OK, but No Light and turntable would stop after 5 seconds. Checked door switches all Good. Resoldered relays and other connections on the control board. NO Change. A day later the light and turntable now work, but now DOESN'T Heat??? Rich
That really sounds strange... It may be a door switch or a relay on the controller. (Internal contacts, not solder joints).
The service manual is here.
Did you take apart the bottom door switch to check it? Blurry but useful video here.
Under the circumstances, I would be most concerned with the bottom switch, but it wouldn't hurt to check the top one. It will not be the middle switch.
Posted on Jan 09, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: danby microwave m # 1153
Quite often this is due to a bad door switch. Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Sep 23, 2007
SOURCE: Maytag Microwave model#MMV5186AA
Typically, no heating of food, indicates a bad Magnetron (tube) or associated components. The oven can be repaired. Magnetrons are not hard to replace and can be ordered online through MCM electronics www.mcmelectronics .
However, due to the dangers of high-voltage within the unit, I would recommend taking the unit to a repair center.
Look in the manual to see what the warranty says. See if there is any information regarding the magnetron or parts. You may be able to get it repaired for free parts, less labor.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
On many of these GE (by Samsung) and similar models, there were "underperforming" magnetrons that would fail, often causing other damage.
In many cases, these ovens also need to have the high voltage rectifier diode and/or stirrer replaced.
In rare cases, the cavity would be overheated and the whole oven would need to be replaced.
In some cases, a service center will have a stock of magnetrons, and they may be of the "underperforming" type instead of the newest version.
So a repairman may (knowingly or not) be replacing a failed magnetron with one that is destined to fail soon.
It may be an innocent mistake, or it may be a way of not having to deal with a bunch of bad stock parts that may cost him time or money.
And if you just go put them in ovens and bill GE for the part and your customer for the labor, you're making money.
There should be a 5-9 year warranty on the magnetron.
Details of this whole magnetron saga are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. The parts kit is similar to this one.
I would check that, then call contact GE to find a different local servicer if possible.
Whether you use that servicer or a different one, I would mention or show the bulletin to them even if your model is not affected. It may have similar trouble that needs to be addressed thoroughly.
You need a thorough, competent checkout.
GE Customer Service is here.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If the mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
Does it make any noises that it didn't before it failed?? It could be a bad secondary interlock switch, cook relay on the PCB, HV circuit problem or bad magnetron. You need an ohm meter to troubleshoot. If you take the cover off, you MUST short across the High Voltage Capacitor terminals to discharge any possible residual charge to prevent shock hazard.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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