Question about Jacuzzi Pool & Spa
It started by needing to be restarted by the breaker being turned off then on. It would work , jets too, but did not stay working. Now the breaker routine doesn't work either and nothing is working, except there is electric to it. It even heated up but not all the way. It would say 106 - and the temperature was only 99...then would drop because it did not stay runnning. It is 37 and less degrees now outside and I am afraid the pipes will freeze. Help!
This problem is over a month old so i am not sure if you still need the help.Start by turning off the breaker. Unplug everything from the hot tub i.e. pump, heater, air blower, light - anything connected to the spa control box.
Now turn on the breaker.
Check the voltage coming out of the transformer in the spa control box. You may have a bad transformer or a bad circuit board. If you have power coming out of the transformer going into the circuit board, do the following:
If it doesn't blow the breaker then systematically do the same process but plug in one item at a time starting with the pump first until you find the problem.
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Posted on Feb 08, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The tub experienced an overheat situation. This may be due to leaving the t stat turned all the way up and not monitoring or the hi-limit sensor is defective. The hi-limit sensor will shut down the heating cicuit if temp gets above 105 D optimally.the fact that the heater light is on is a good sign that things are working at this point.Whether or not a suitable temp(100-103 D) will be arrived at is to be seen. If spa heat kicks off before set temp is reached then replace hi-limit sensor.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
SOURCE: no power to hot tub...
In all liklihood, your problem is a breakdown in the insulation of the heating element. The elements tend to be mineral insulated then metal jacketed. Once you get a bit of corrosion on the jacket and a little water gets into the mineral powder, it's insulation properties fall off sharply, shorting out the power supply.
There are two practical ways of testing this:
The pro way of doing it is to borrow a high voltage insulation tester, disconnect the power leads from the element and check the resistance between one of the elements terminals and the jacket. Treat anything less than a megohm as a failure requiring replacement of the element. (nb. This is one of those rare cases where you need to use a proper insulation tester - an ordinary multimeter often fails to find this problem)
The alternative is just to replace the element and see how much difference it makes.
Posted on May 25, 2009
"OH" is an overheat error. In normal function, it is used as a safety shut off if the spa water temperature reaches over 110 degrees in the event of a thermostat failure. But more commonly, (if the water temp hasn't gotten too hot) it indicates that the temp sensor(s) have failed. If you have a digital display on the topside controller of your spa, then it is a circuit board controlled spa pack. Most spa builders use the same control pack manufacturer - Balboa Watergroup. The sensor kit usually consists of 2 probes and wires that plug directly onto the circuit board. Depending on the spa, they could both be located onto the heater manifold, or one on the manifold and one mounted to the tub making direct contact with the water via a thru-wall sensor mount. If I knew the spa manufacturer, I could further assist you. If you replace the sensors, and encounter the same problem... then the circuit board is bad, and usually a costly replacement. The sensors are usually listed as a "BA sensor assy" Hope this helps you,
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
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