Question about HP G60630US Notebook
Ok, so I took my laptop to my old Networking teacher, and he told me that HE would be working on it, because for some reason the charger was not able to charge, the connector inside was loose...as it always is on these computer.. I was told that he and some of his students would be working on it,....And I went EVERYDAY for three weeks, to make sure they were actually working on it, I just went today and I was ready to take it home, it was working well, it opened, everythign was fine..then they wanted to fix the cover plate..., and I sat there from 12:40 to 3:00pm for them to work on the problems. We turned it on, the mouse wasnt working, then the keyboard wasnt working, We FINALLY got the keyboard working again, but the mouse still not. I took it home, thinking it was fine, because I have a wireless mouse, and first the keyboard stopped working again, So I used the onscreen one for a little while, and then I tried shutting it down and taking out the battery for a few moments, then I put it back in and tried to turn it on, now the screen is white and blank and will not even fully turn on, I cannot open up Window's and I cant do anything. I also noticed about 4 of my screws were missing in the back and one of the fans werent working. Now I am dont have a clue how to handle this.....PLEASE HELP ME,
To help you Andre I'm going to need to use your eyes.
You are going to be an assistant tech, lol!
OK. Take a deep breath, calm down. Things happen.
1) To perform this properly Andre, you will really need an ESD wrist strap. Electro Static Discharge. Average cost is $3 to $6.
Here is but one example,
Suggest set a large serving tray (Unpainted), on the table you're working on, and connect the ESD wrist strap's alligator clip to it.
Use a large metal knickknack. You get the picture.
You DO NOT want to Static shock your laptop!
2) HP Support > G60-630us Notebook PC > Main Support page,
(Listed main support page because you may need it in the future.
You may wish to Bookmark this page)
3) Service Manual (Free),
Go down to the heading that starts with HP G50. (G50 in Blue)
Go across, and click on the blue - G60
This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files. (I would suggest upgrading to the latest Adobe Reader version though)
After you click on the file name (G60) it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
(Took 4 seconds just now. Using a medium speed DSL connection)
Click on the + sign to the left of -
Compaq Presario CQ60 Notebook HP G60 Notebook, in the Bookmarks menu to the left.
Scroll the blue scroll bar down, click right on -
Component replacement procedures
You need to partially disassemble the laptop.
[ Zoom In icon at the Top ( + ) Increases the view size.
Zoom Out icon Decreases the view size ]
4) Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter (Charger), and Battery. Suggest laying a soft static free cloth, on the table you're working on. helps prevent scratching the laptop, and the table.
5) Laptop closed, lay it upside down on the table, and Battery Compartment facing away from you.
You need to remove the Top Cover.
Page 69. (Reference to page number is the Adobe Reader page number, at Top. The actual manual page is 4-31)
Looking at No.5 - Remove the following components;
The component removal is in a step by step list. The components to be removed are listed in Blue.
Click on each component in order.
When you are finished removing the stated component, go back to Page 69.
Here's an easy way to do that;
The Adobe Reader page number box is at the top, and to the right of the Down Arrow.
1) Put your mouse cursor in the page number box.
Left-click once. Anything in the page number box is now highlighted in Blue.
2) Type the page you want. In this case 69.
3) Press the Enter key
Remove the Optical Drive (CD/DVD drive), Harddrive, and Ram Memory.
Remove the Keyboard, Keyboard Cover, Power Button Board, and Display Assembly.
(Philips head screws. No.1 Philips screwdriver. Also suggest a cheap set of Jewelers screwdrivers )
Optical Drive? One Philips head screw to remove, slide it out. Can't grab it? See if the tray will come out when you press the button.
Harddrive? There is a Harddrive Compartment Cover, on the bottom of the laptop. Two Philips head screws to remove. LIFT the cover on the screw side. The other side of the cover has Tabs, that go into the Base Enclosure. (Bottom Cover)
There is a sheet metal Harddrive Caddy, that goes around the Harddrive, and holds it in the laptop. Three Philips head screws to remove, then remove Harddrive, and Caddy.
The Harddrive slides towards the OUTSIDE of the laptop, to remove.
Make SURE it is slid all the way over, and then pick it up using the Mylar tab on it. (Mylar tab is used also to slide Harddrive)
You DO NOT need to remove the Harddrive Caddy.
The Keyboard Cable STAYS attached to the Keyboard.
It disconnects FROM the motherboard connector.
There is NO plug connector on the end of that Keyboard Cable.
The Keyboard Cable is a type of FFC. Flat Flex Cable,
As such, before removing the cable from the motherboard connector, you may wish to make a mark on one side of the cable, (Sharpee?), and a matching mark on the same side of the motherboard connector.
The Keyboard Cable MUST go back in the same position it was originally.
Don't care if it's twisted, flopped over, or going to Hawaii for vacation.
Those flat connecting strips on the cable, line up with matching connecting pins, in the motherboard's connector.
The motherboard connector is a type of ZIF connector.
Zero Insertion Force.
It is composed of two parts, but DOES NOT come completely apart.
The bottom part is rectangular in shape, does NOT move, and is the larger of the two pieces. It is the BODY.
The top part is also rectangular in shape, DOES MOVE, and is the smaller of the two parts. It is the Locking Bar.
Looking at the manual, I don't know which style of Locking bar is used.
Therefore I will show the two styles I have seen, that are currently being used;
1) Sliding Type;
Closed, or can be said as Locked,
2) Flip Up type;
I'm being so detailed, because if the Keyboard Cable's motherboard connector is in two pieces, it is BROKE.
If the motherboard connector is broken, you are looking at MOTHERBOARD REPLACEMENT.
Same for the motherboard ZIF connectors, for the Touchpad, and other components that use this type of motherboard connector.
The Wireless Antenna wires connect to the Wireless Module, located at the bottom of the laptop.
When you remove the Display Assembly, you have to disconnect the two wires from the Wireless Module, remove the Wireless Module, and feed the wires up through the Body of the laptop.
Suggest you make a drawing with a note, as to which color of wires go to what terminals; on the Wireless Module. Mix them up, and you won't have wireless capability.
The Wireless Antenna wires go through Channels, and Latches.
They, and all other cables (Wires), MUST go back in the same route; same Channels and Latches, as they were originally.
Failure to do so can result in the laptop not closing properly, and damage the cables. (Wires)
The Wireless Antenna wires STAY with the Display Assembly. They connect to a Wireless Antenna within the Display Assembly.
Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.
Advise DO NOT mix them up.
Missing screws? There is a Screw Listing on Page 97.
The Top Cover snaps into the Base Enclosure. (Bottom Cover)
After all screws are removed, you have to pop the Top Cover off.
The Top Cover has Tabs, that mate up with matching Latches, in the Base Enclosure.
Suggest use a thick guitar pick, to ease between the parting line, of the Right side/front. You may only just be able to get the Top Cover parted enough, that you have to use a Spudger Tool.
The guitar pick may not be strong enough.
ONLY go in about 1/4 inch. You do not want to damage any wires, or components. Doesn't go in? Then you may be hitting a Tab/Latch. Move over a little.
Ease the Top Cover up, and hold with your fingers. Then move up the Right side.
Right side popped loose pretty good, move towards the Front. Pop the front loose, head towards the left side.
Once the Top Cover is released enough, it will come off.
Have questions along the way? Post back in a Comment. I've got your back.
Give this to your ex-Networking teacher;
"You sir/maam should not be working on other peoples computers.
Nor should you let your students.
Although the school system has NO obligation, to repair any article brought into a class for repair, and was damaged in said class; you have done a great disservice to one of your former students, and should feel obligated to have it repaired at your expense.
It is people like you, and Best Buy, that give REAL tech's a bad name.
Suggest you stick with Networking, and tiddly-winks"
Posted on Jan 08, 2013
Have it repaired by a Qualified Computer Tech, Send the bill to the Teacher and his students. Ask to use the Teachers Laptop until repaired. I don't understand Why someone would treat your laptop as a "guinea pig"? You agreed to this?
Posted on Jan 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
when power off, push compressed air through vent.
If you can reach fan and remove dirt,
Insist on compressed air to clean every vent.
Install temp monitor to check if CPU is getting hot.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
you might have shot out your battery because if electrical curent is goging in to the computer (te orange light is going on) but the computer wont turn on it might be a problem with your battey
Posted on May 30, 2009
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