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Hot tub cover is splitting at middle seamline

The thread is pulling apart at the seam where the hot tub cover folds when you open it

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 7,365 Answers

As long as the cover fabric is not damaged or torn then the seam
should be able to be resewn

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My seams pull apart

Sounds like a tension issue.

Check your tension units and thread guides are clean and free of lint....a rag moistened with methylated spirit (denatured, surgical etc) run between the disks will help.

Normal factory tension setting = 3 for all dials although resetting this style of tension unit is, frankly, awkward, so if it ends up being other than 3, don't worry too much, just write it down somewhere handy.

Start with all at tension 3 and try using 4 different colours of thread and sew a scrap to see the balance of the tensions to more easily locate any that are loose.

Ideally, the 2 needle threads should appear as secure dots not at all "loopy", while the looper threads should meet neatly at the edge and be a firm join without pulling at the edge on one side or the other.

Get the needle threads right first, then small adjustments to balance the looper threads....after a few adjustments you will probably have it back to normal.

If you want any more help with this, just drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Feb 18, 2008

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: Bobbin tangling

Sounds like the bobbin is spinning to fast or is winded to loose. Try adjusting the tension on the bobbin.

Posted on May 27, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: The bobbin thread is bunching up and sometimes

Take the bobbin out and unthread the machine.

Install a new needle.

Place the needle bar in its highest position and place the presser bar up.

Make sure that the upper tension dial is in the normal range (5 or mark on dial).

Rethread the bobbin ensuring that the thread is in the tension.

Rethread the machine.

If this doesn't help, please indicate your brand and model for specific advice.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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I am trying to cut out the quilt for pattern and 3795 and I'm confused why I need to put price 2 on the fold line


Cannot see the pattern you are describing, but there is a very good reason why you need to double the fabric.

Because that piece needs to be doubled. If you cut out only one piece, you would only have half of what is needed. If you cut 2 separate pieces, that means you would have to sew a seam down the middle (plus, once you've sewn a seam, that particular piece will be too small since you reduced the size by taking two seams-width out of it).

By way of example, look at the back of your blouse. It is one solid piece from underarm to the other underarm. One side is the mirror image of the other side, with the centerline down the middle of your back. The pattern companies save paper by giving you only half the pattern, and you accomplish making a full piece by placing the pattern's center line on the fold of the fabric. When you've cut out the fabric and open it up, you have one "complete" piece.

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Dec 31, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I add knit band to pajama pant on McCalls pattern 7975. I have lost the directions.


Usually the cuff ribbing is cut double the required length plus doubled seam allowances (ie 3" x 2 = 6; add two 5/8" for seams = 1.25"'; equals 7.25" long). It is doubled so when it is folded in half and stitched to the leg, there will be no seams showing outside). The width of the ribbing is probably an inch or so shorter than the leg bottom--it should be large enough for the foot to fit through but tight enough that it hugs (not squeezes) the leg.

Sew the cuff together lengthwise to make a circle. Fold it in half with the stitched seam inside. Then fold the circle widthwise with the seamline at one end. Mark the halfway point opposite the seamline. Then fold in half again with the seamline and the first pin matching together. Mark the other two ends. You've divided it into equal fourths. Repeat the same procedure marking the pajama leg in fourths. Then match the seamline of the ribbing to the seamline of the leg (right sides together). Match the other three marks on the cuff to the three marks on the pajama leg bottom. You'll have the stretch the ribbing because it should be a bit smaller in circumference than the leg bottom. Stretch the ribbing to match the leg bottom and stitch the ribbing and leg bottoms together. Turn right side out.

How to Attach Knit Cuffs to Sleeve Shirt Sleeves

sewing with knit fabric how to sew sleeve cuff with knit fabric


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Jan 02, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have just been given a huskylock 341. The tension is off. How do I correct this?


Have you used an overlocker before? If not, I'd suggest that you obtain a user manual for it as they are completely different to a sewing machine and at some point you will need to rethread it. You can purchase one from here
http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/3923709707.html

This machine makes three and four thread seams, which is a combination of two needles and two loopers. For the three thread seam you can use either the left or right needle which gives you different sized seams. For the four thread you use both needles, one goes through the middle of the seam and the other is on the left side securing the seam. tally_girl_70.jpg On most overlockers you are able to move the cutting blade too and this will reduce or increase the amount of fabric being trimmed from the right side.

This page http://sewing.about.com/od/sergersoverlock/ss/serger.htm will give you some general information on sergers/overlockers too.

So adjusting tension is a matter of changing the tension on the top and lower looper threads to close up against the cut edge, or moving the blade over to make the seam a little wider or narrower. You may also need to finess the left needle tension so that the seam doesn't pull apart, I always test serge two layers and then pull open from the right side and see if the needle thread is showing (it will show a little bit but you dont want it so loose that it pulls open. Only tighten the needles in very small increments though, as you'll break threads and needles if you turn them up too tight.

Hard to explain without seeing what your machine is seaming now. But as a rule of thumb, start with all four tension dials (or 3 if doing a three thread seam) on 5. If the tension dials are correctly calibrated then this should give you a pretty good seam. You may wish to lengthen the stitches, I usually work with stitch length of 2.5 (same as your sewing machine stitch length) Stitch length will be a dial on the right side beside the flywheel or in front of the blade area. The blade adjustment should be a little knob near the blade area too. There will be a lower fixed blade and a moving upper blade which sits against the lower one, they work like scissors to trim the fabric. So to adjust the blade, you will need to take the pressure off the upper blade, then wind the knob to move it left or right.

Different weights of fabric will behave differently on the overlocker so you do need to adjust tension for each new project. For example, if seaming a jersey knit you'd use a four thread seam, this gives elasticity and strength and you can join two garment pieces with this seam. You'd probably make a 6mm or 7mm wide seam, the left needle will secure the fabric and the loopers will encase the fabric smoothly while the right needle secures them and gives extra strenth to the seam.

But on organza for example, I would make a very narrow three thread seam using the right needle as the organza will roll inside the overlocking if you cut the fabric too wide.

And on something like curtains I would neaten the edge with a wide 3 thread seam using the left needle to get a very wide seam, the fabric wont roll so you'd need to loosen the two loopers a little to smoothly encase the cut edge.
tally_girl_71.jpg For example, on this image above you can see that the looper threads are laying a little off the edge of the fabric in places, particularly the lower looper, (the side that looks like Y's where you can't really see the middle needle thread), so I would tighten the lower looper about .5 on its dial, then test again.

I hope that this makes sense to you, you will need to test serge, and adjust one dial at a time, test again and look at the result, then maybe adjust another thread until you are getting a smooth looking seam.

Sep 05, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I am trying to do a flatlock seam. It is so tight that I cannot open it.


Flat lock is done with only three threads so unthread the right hand needle, then you need to turn down the tension on the left needle, as this is the part of the seam that needs to pull open when you pull the two pieces of fabric apart. You may need to move the cutting blade hard left too as you need to minimise the amount of fabric that will lie inside the flat lock.

You then seam and pull open the seam to get the flat lock look. A flat lock gives two different looks on each side of the fabric, the ladder on one side is nice on lingerie as you can run a ribbon up through it like an eyelet. The other side looks like on sweatshirting as a seam finish.

Aug 13, 2011 | Baby Lock Imagine

1 Answer

I have a singer 7258 that I can not get the tension to loosen up on. The top stitch is straight across and adjusting dial doesn't help.


Hello

Adjust the tension

Load your sewing machine with one color on top, threaded through the needle. Load the second color thread into the bobbin and thread.


Fold the scrap fabric in half, and sew a straight stitch at least 2 inches long. Look closely at the seam. If you see loops of the bottom color thread on top of the fabric, proceed to Step 3. If you see loops of the top color thread on the bottom of the fabric, proceed to step 4.


Loosen the top tension. Since the top tension is so tight, it is pulling the bottom thread up through the fabric. Loosen the top tension by turning the numbered knob on the front of the sewing machine counterclockwise by one number.


Tighten the top tension. Since the top tension is too loose, the bottom thread is pulling the top thread down through the fabric. Tighten the top tension by turning the numbered knob on the front of the sewing machine clockwise by one number.


Sew a straight stitch 3 inches in length. Check the stitching. It is perfect if the threads meet in the middle, and you can only see the top thread on top and the bottom thread on bottom. If it still needs adjusting, go back to step 2 to repeat the needed steps.


Using two different colored threads makes it easier for you to see which thread is being pulled.

Always use proper precautions when working with electrical machines.

Aug 01, 2011 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have the huskylock 905 and it is running great--but-- the seam easily spreads apart after sewing. I have adjusted all of the tensions in different areas and it looks great until you hold the fabric and...


The left needle thread tension is the problem if the seam can be pulled open. Check the threading and tension on this needle, you may find that the stitch looks okay on the top but on the underside the left needle thread is actually lying against the right needle stitching.

Check the left needle tension device is working, clean it according to the manual instructions, rethread and ensure it is set to the normal number (probably 5), then test again and see if its still happening. If so the tension device is probably faulting and will need a service.

Reading your description again, if the whole seam is pulling apart fully, then all the tensions are too loose. Either way, I'd take it to the Husqvarna dealer for a service, all machines benefit from one at least every 2 years.

May 05, 2011 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 905

1 Answer

The bobbin thread is bunching up and sometimes


Take the bobbin out and unthread the machine.

Install a new needle.

Place the needle bar in its highest position and place the presser bar up.

Make sure that the upper tension dial is in the normal range (5 or mark on dial).

Rethread the bobbin ensuring that the thread is in the tension.

Rethread the machine.

If this doesn't help, please indicate your brand and model for specific advice.

Jun 27, 2009 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Tension problem using zigzag stitch


Most likely the fabric is too light weight to sustain the thread tension using a wide zig-zag stitch. Tunneling will occur in this case.

Loosening the tension (top & bobbin) could also be beneficial.

Sometimes the machine has a special foot (sometimes called overlock) that will help. However, using something to add more body to the fabric, like a wash-away or tear-away fabric stabilizer to the seam or even adding paper will help limit tunneling. Sometimes heavy starch applied to the seamline before stitching will be helpful.

tunneling when zigzagging Threads Magazine Gatherings Forum Sewing...

zigzag stitch troubleshoot

May 08, 2017 | Kenmore 19233 Computerized Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Gathering of thread on bottom side of seam


you need to do a tension assembly test. Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} Tension assembly test. To do this test. Pull the thread through the tension assembly and test it to make sure the tension is working correctly.
(To do this test, adjust your tension setting to normal or medium or 5 or something in the middle. Raise the presser foot and pull the thread through the tension. It should pull easily!! Lower the presser foot and pull the thread. It should pull noticeably harder.)
If it doesn’t work this way then you probably have a piece of thread or lint stuck inside the tension discs. To remove it, turn the tension to 0 zero and raise the presser foot.Using a small screwdriver, open the space between the discs and spray with canned or compressed air. The stuff should come out. Do the tension test again to make sure you got everything and then try sewing again.
sewman7

Dec 21, 2008 | Baby Lock Espire

1 Answer

My seams pull apart


Sounds like a tension issue.

Check your tension units and thread guides are clean and free of lint....a rag moistened with methylated spirit (denatured, surgical etc) run between the disks will help.

Normal factory tension setting = 3 for all dials although resetting this style of tension unit is, frankly, awkward, so if it ends up being other than 3, don't worry too much, just write it down somewhere handy.

Start with all at tension 3 and try using 4 different colours of thread and sew a scrap to see the balance of the tensions to more easily locate any that are loose.

Ideally, the 2 needle threads should appear as secure dots not at all "loopy", while the looper threads should meet neatly at the edge and be a firm join without pulling at the edge on one side or the other.

Get the needle threads right first, then small adjustments to balance the looper threads....after a few adjustments you will probably have it back to normal.

If you want any more help with this, just drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Feb 18, 2008 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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