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High Electric Bill due to Well Pump Cycling On Frequently

We live on 5 acres in a rural community and are dealig with a high electric bill. We are All Electric. Our Well Pump System seems to be the culprit! The pressure dropsrom 60# - 40# at irregular intervals of 10-25 minutes,causing the pump to come on for a few seconds around the clock. I trenched from the well for 25' and found a 1 1/4" PVC coupling had beenimproperly cemented when system installed 34 yrs ago; causing minor leak. After repair, the problem continues, possibly extending the interval slightly between the time pump comes on! I suspect the check valve at pressure switch near pressure tank? My schematic, als shows one in the well? Help!

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The short run time of the pump indicates very litttle water volume is needed to reach to turn off pressure. To me this indicates you may have two problems. There is a leak somewhere in the system that allows the pressure to drop to the turn on point. Any check valve will fail eventually so barring any other leak that is your problem. I would think only one check valve is needed in the system so the second one may have been added to crutch the first one leaking. Normally the one check valve is placed on the pump before it is attached to the well pipe. The pump must be removed from the well to accomplish the replacement.

The second problem has something to do with the storage tank. If the pumps runs whenever you open a faucet or in your short cycle situation, then your tank is way too small or it is "water logged". Assuming it has been sized correctly, which means at least 20 gallon capacity then air needs to be added to the tank which will compress when the pump adds water until the high pressure setting is reached. When water is release to the house the air will expand until the low pressure setting is reached and the cycle repeats. The point here is that a significant quanity of water flows between pump cycles.

If your tank was installed in perhaps the last 20 years then it is likely a bladder type whitch contains the water so it never comes in contact with the steel tank, preventing internal corrosion and leaching of metals into the water. If the bladder has failed then the formally isolated air will have been absorbed by the water and your short cycling condition develops. That is what happens in non bladder tanks so air needs to be added periodically. I think all bladder tanks have a car tire like valve stem attached to the tank so that the opperating pressure can be set by the manufacture. The valve stem rairly leaks so bladder failure causes the loss of the air in the tank. There should be a label on the tank specifying the factory pressure. Use a tire gauge to test for the proper pressure. Add air if it is below setting.

Posted on Dec 12, 2013

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SOURCE: oil for submersible sump/effluent pump

I have a master plumber 1/3 HP model 539892 submersible effluent pump and was wondering if it takes oil and if it does what type of oil.

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See Figure 1
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Fig. Fig. 1: Disassembled electric fuel pump


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

In-Tank Pump
See Figures 2, 3 and 4

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Fig. Fig. 2: Low pressure in-tank electric fuel pump


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Fig. Fig. 3: High pressure in-tank fuel pump


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Fig. Fig. 4: Removal of electric fuel pump

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See Figure 5
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Fig. Fig. 5: High pressure external fuel pump

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