Question about Washing Machines
I don't have a service manual and the user manual isn't much help. I believe there's a seal at the base of the agitator, but the agitator is not easily removeable. The unit seems level. It isn't coming from supply hoses. Shutting everything off, the leak persists until the tub is empty.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The seal can be replaced, but it is a very complicated process. (1 1/2 hours with 2 trained technicians). First I would check with the manufacture. They will often offer a concession (pay for the repair) if it just out of warranty. (The worst the can do is tell you no) You can tighten all of the bolts all of the way around the tub (If a bolt 3/4 the way to the top is loose, it will still run down and look like it's coming for a different area). Anything else it's a near complete tear down for.
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
Remove the hose and bend it in circiles see if yo see any cracks in the hose if you do replace it or if it's long enough cut out the bad part and replace it. Alos clamps wear out ver time so try replacing the clamps too.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Check the solenoids at the valve. Use a multimeter or ohmmeter to check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad solenoid. I'll attach a photo for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
You may not have the tubing pushed in all the way. If you can pull the tubing out without depressing the ring around the tubing it's not in all the way. This is a self sealing connection but only if the tubing is seated properly.
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
SOURCE: Eaton Viking Duo Wash is Leaking
1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.
2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.
3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.
WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.
4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.
There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.
5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.
WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.
Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.
6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.
If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.
Replace any valves that are cracked.
Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.
If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.
Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.
The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.
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Posted on Sep 15, 2010
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Hope this helps you...Jim...Please leave a comment...Thanks!
LEAKS ALL THE TIME Is your GE washer leaking all the time, even when not in use? If so the problem is the fill hoses or the valve. Look behind the washer to see if water is coming from the hoses. If not, take the cover off to the control panel. Once off, you should see if the water valve and if there is leakage - it needs replacing (if it is leaking). This is the most popular water valve for GE top-loading washers made after 1995 and the part number is WH13X86 Order Here. . Note that some models have a water valve with more than two coils. In this case, you will need to order the valve by model number at AppliancePartsPros.com Buy Fill Hoses Here.
LEAKS DURING FILL CYCLE Is your GE washer leaking during the fill cycle? If so the problem may be in the valve. Follow instructions above, only this time start the fill cycle before looking at the valve.
If your washer overflows with water during fill cycle your problem is the water level control or the water valve. If you must cut the water off from the house plumbing to stop the water then there is no need for testing, just replace the water valve. First, you need to turn on the washer. The washer should start to fill with water, now cut the washer off and on repeatedly (note to yourself whether the water turned off every time). If it does cut off every time you cut the washer off, then it's most likely in the water level control. If it keeps running after you cut the washer off then, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. (Note that the valve can stick intermittently so it still may be bad if it passed the test) Water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com
If the water valve doesn't stick in the first test then you need to check the water level control. First, remove the front of washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front pushing on the clips) then look on the side of the tub and you should see a tube attached to a box. Remove the tube (make sure all the water is out of the tub) look in the tube to see if is stopped up. Often it will stop up near the end. If it is, you can clean it out with a toothpick. Once it's clean, reinstall it and your washer is fixed. If the tube is not stopped up reinstall the tube. Now set the water level control on the lowest setting and start filling the washer with water. If the water stops when the tub is approximately half full (this varies with every model) turn it up to the next level (you may have to reset it). Repeat until the tub is full. If at any the water level gets above the last row of holes in the tub, unplug the washer. If the water stops running when you unplug the washer, replace the water level control. If the water doesn't stop, turn the water off at the wall then replace water valve. Water level contorls and water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com . LEAKS DURING WASH Is your GE washer leaking during wash? If so the problem is the tub seal (seals around the transmission where it goes through the tub), drain hoses (including the tub to pump hose) or the pump. First take the front off the washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front, pushing on the clips) then start the fill cycle. Now start watching until you see a leak. If the leak is coming from the tub seal, the transmission needs to be replaced (note that changing the transmission is expensive and takes special tools, so you may consider replacing the washer). If the leak is coming from the drain hose or the pump you need to replace it. If you don't see it leak at all, your soap may be the problem. To check this fill the washer with water and the amount of soap you normally would use. Then start the washer and watch the tube coming from the left back of the tub (the overflow pipe). If soapsuds come out of the overflow pipe then try cutting down on your soap or switch to another brand. This may fix your problem. These parts can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com
LEAKS DURING PUMP OUT Is your GE washer leaking during pump out? If so the first thing you should look at is the drainpipe (to your house plumbing). Fill the washer with water, and then turn it to spin and start it. Now while it's pumping, look at your drainpipe if water backs out (it may not back unless you have soap in the tub), then the problem is in your plumbing. If it doesn't, follow the same steps as above in "leaks during wash." Only this time watch for leaks during pump out as well.
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