Question about Kenmore Sears Dryer Heating element PS334313, AP3094254
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
There are several things that can cause a dryer not to heat properly. First and foremost, a dryer needs proper air flow in order to work properly. Routine cleaning of the dryer vent hose should be done periodically. I recommend once per season (4 times per year), depending on use. If you haven't cleaned the dryer vent any time recently, start here first. It could be that you have a simple clog somewhere.
Now...if you've already thought of that, you could actually have more going on INSIDE the dryer. If your dryer is equipped with a removable front kick panel, remove it by inserting a putty knife along the top seam (about 2 inches in front each side) to release the retaining clips. The panel should pull open, exposing the heating element and blower housing. On some models the heat components can be accessed by removing the back of the dryer.
Stand back and watch the heating element with the dryer running. If it is glowing and intermittently shutting off, this is NORMAL. You probably have a clog some where INSIDE the dryer. You will need to unplug the dryer and remove the air blower housing to see if it is clogged with lint. I have found these blowers so clogged that the fan gets jammed with lint and snaps off at the shaft. If the fan doesn't spin, there is no air flow and you clothes will not dry. In this case, the blower fan will have to be replaced.
If the heating element is NOT glowing, and you have verified that the dryer is not clogged, you may have a failure with any of the following components:
HEATING ELEMENT - located inside a heat box. Unplug dryer and remove connector leads from element. Check resistance of the heating element. It should be about 10 ohms. If it is OPEN, the heating element is bad.
THERMAL CUT-OUT - located on the heater box housing. Has two leads running to it. Designed to protect the heating element in an overheat condition. Check resistance to ensure it is reading something close to a SHORT (0 ohms). If it is OPEN, it must be replaced. It is highly recommended to replace the HI-LIMIT THERMOSTAT (which is also located on the heater box, closer to the heating element connectors). The two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating element temperature. If the TCO fails it is usually for a reason. It could be a simple matter of general house cleaning, or it could be a failure of the hi limit thermostat.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know what you find. Post back with any comments and/or questions.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.
If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
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