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When the dryer just isn't getting your clothes dry anymore, the culprit is usually the heating element. The dryer part may look intimidating, but you can replace the heating element.
Step by step instructions
TOOLS NEEDED New heating element,Screwdriver, Needle-nose pliers.
1 Unplug the dryer from the wall before starting. Find the dryer heating element cabinet. For most dryers this is located in the back, however it can be in the front. Find the compartment on the dryer.
2 Remove the screws or clips to get into the compartment to expose the heating element and wires. Use a needlenose pliers to carefully remove the element wires.
3 Detach the can shaped object that may cover the heating element. Tip the can backward to slip it off the hooks holding it in place. Some models place the heating element with the can, while others provide easier access to it.
4 Unscrew the screws holding the element in place and pull it out.
5 Put the new element in place, and replace the screws to secure it in the dryer. Put the can back in place and connect the element wires before putting on the cabinet cover.
6 Run the dryer on fluff with no heat, and go outside to make sure enough air is getting through the vent system.
7 Break the new heating element in by running your dryer on high heat for 10 minutes without any clothes in the dryer. This cleans oily residue off the element and keep the clothes from getting smoky.
The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.
Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.
Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.
The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect
the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire
from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal
cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is
power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed
components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and
the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do
not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire
The heating element is located at the rear of the dryer behind the rear access panel. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the rear access panel to the cabinet and remove the panel.
Your dryer seems not heating but it doesn't mean the heating element is busted. The
problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed
of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling
thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that
causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the
high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed procedures. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.
All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to thedryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.
The heating element is accessible through the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Remove the two screws attaching the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet then slide the panel down then off the cabinet. The heating element can now be accessed and repalced.
Remove the screws securing the heating element to the heater box then pull down the heating element to remove it from the heater box.
Disconnect and label the wires for the heating element and the components. Remove the components from the old heating element then transfer it to the new heating element.
Slide the new heating element up into the heater box and secure it in place. Align the slots on the top of the lower front access panel with the locating tabs on the front access panel then slide it into position and secure the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet.
There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.
Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.
Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.
The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.
Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.
Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.
It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.
Hi, The element has broke and shorted out against the metal on the dryer. You will need to replace the element. If this is a rear access panel dryer, here is how to get to the ele
UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.
There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:
1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.
2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).
3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.
I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.
PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.