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Check your coils to see if they are dirty. If they are underneath the refrigerator you can vacuum them as best you can, or if you have access to an air compressor, you could try blowing them clean. Too much dirt on the coils can make you unit work harder and cause warmer temps. What is your temperature in the freezer section. You only need 32 degrees to freeze things, but it should be down below 10 degrees for everything else to work right. Hope this helps!
It sounds like your temperature control is not functioning correctly. Most temp controls still have a small mercury switch somewhere in the cooling circuitry. I would hazard a guess that if you can turn the dial to different temp settings and it always goes to freezing at 0C or 32F that your temp switch is either bad or the mercury switch (which tips forward or back depending on the setting to make contact and start the compressor) is stuck somehow so that it always sets to the lowest possible setting for your Wine Cooler. Without actually looking inside and testing circuits, that's my best estimation of your issue. Hope that provides you with a starting point to talk to someone who can help you repair it.
Hi, normally the suction pressure on a refrigerant -22 system will be between 60 pounds gauge pressure (which keeps it above freezing point) and about 80 pounds. This depends on the temperature condition.Make sure that the superheat and subcooling are correct to see what is to be considered normal for the conditions you have present.
There is an electrically activated air dampener in the upper left back side of the refrigerator section which most likely has broken (in the open position), allowing cold air from the freezer to continue to enter the fresh foods section. Replace the dampener assembly.
Is there anything obstructing the fan area, ice build up ? It is normal for your freezer to get warm if evap fan is not working, it is essential for it to work :) A defrost cycle should kick on a timer or as needed (adaptive) and there should not be excessive frost buildup that it blocks your evap fan. I would have suggested you unplug your refrigerator for about 10 minutes and see if that resets your control board - if not, then you will need service - either replacing motor assembly or a faulty control board.
Hi, Change the controls back to normal settings. Make sure the freezer is getting 0 to 5 above. If the freezer is getting cold enough, try and turn the cold control to 1 and see if the refrigerator shuts off. It sounds like the cold control in not working properly and will need to be replaced. NOTE: The freezer temp has to be right temp or the fresh food side will not work proper. I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
We had to reset the temperature, and what we did was hold the power freeze and the power cool button in for about 12 seconds. It flashed and reset it. My refrigerator still isn't working right but it seemed to reset the temp. I'm not positive this will work for you or not, but may be worth a try.
I just had a similar problem, and the bottoms of both sides were cold
but the top shelves were warm. I found that the condenser fan, the fan
right above the
cooling coils was not working. This fan circulates the cold air and if
it's not working it can't move the cold air to the top or over to the
side. Open the freezer door and press the switch that tells the
door is closed (so the light goes out), if the fan doesn't come on
shortly, or only sputters that could be the problem. You will need to
take out the back cover over the coils, the ice maker tray and auger
motor if you have one and some other parts. Play around with the plug
where it goes into the side wall, if you can get the fan to come on and
off, it's most likely a bad fan motor....about $55 to replace. As you
apart, be sure to take some digital pics of the process so you can
remember how it goes back together!