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The small plastic piece on my Maytag Cordless Iron ML17500AAW that holds the wound spring broke and I need another one to fix the rewind on the cord.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jackboy
  • 2985 Answers

SOURCE: need way to open the iron 3302

Usually start at the cord end to locate internal screws to get top off then down to the next layer

Posted on Aug 01, 2007

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  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: Cleaning a cordless iron

You can buy Iron cleaner from the supermarket. It will take alot of flushing. While you are at the supermarket buy some de- mineralised water NOT distilled water
You have been using normal water in the iron which leads to this problems.
Or you can by a Phillips gold based iron with a inbuilt flushing system in which you can use normal tap water. They retail for about $150.00 in Aust.

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

  • 154 Answers

SOURCE: The electrical cord broke off at the base of the iron.

you need to take the base off the iron

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Oreck Cordless Speed Iron

Try an Oreck store or customer service.

If not I would suggest Ebay or something of the sort that would have odd and end parts

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

tbreeze47
  • 3083 Answers

SOURCE: Broken iron cord need an iron repair person?

Depends on warranty stipulations, mainly, and finding someone who knows how to do it. Doesn't hurt to ask if the appliance guy can do the job.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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1 Answer

I dropped it and broke the bottom blue plastic piece off. Can it be repaired?


there are special supa glues on the market that will glue it together
they are made by locktite and available from locktite agents and bearing supply shops.

Apr 26, 2015 | Oreck Cordless Steam Iron

1 Answer

Replace cord in Rowenta Iron


0) Unplug the iron.

1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.

2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".

3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!

4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.

5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.

6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).

7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...

8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.

9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.

10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).

11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.

12) Plug in the iron and test it out!

Mar 23, 2014 | Rowenta Irons

2 Answers

My Oreck Cordless Iron leaks constantly. What can I do to stop the leaking?


Find where the leak is coming from, and coat the leak or crack with silicone.

Jul 29, 2009 | Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron

2 Answers

Cord short ccircuit


The back comes straight off. All you need to do is take a small screwdriver and pry against the bottom metal piece, then it should start to come off. Make sure you take it off carefully so as not to break anything. Pry evenly all around the plastic end cap until it comes off.

After that, you can replace the cord. It's connected via two crimp caps. Easy to replace. Just make SURE you purchase a cord rated for an iron.. DO NOT clip the plug end from an extension cord or similar and use it. The iron uses 16 gauge HEATER CORD. Easy to find, but you could melt your power cord and possibly cause a fire if you don't replace it with the correct type.

Mar 13, 2009 | Black & Decker D2020 Iron

4 Answers

Russell Hobbs Steam Glide 2200 won't produce steam.


I had a problem and tracked it down to the pump. If you take the iron apart, the pump sits towards the front of the iron and has 3 tubes connected to it. Remove the srew-down bracket and free the pump from the plastic clasps on the base. Disconnect tubes and wires (remembering where they go.

Remove the circular securing spring from the front of the pump and drop the metal barrel from the housing. Unscrew the rear plastic assembly and set aside. there is a joint inside where the plastic assembly was - this is has an o-ring and is simply a pull-apart. It deos not need screwing. Pull the metal barrel apart, taking care to note the sequence for reassembly. Inside the barel is a larger rubber washer. Pull on the metal tube that goes through the centre of the washer using a pair of pliers - it will come free.

You will then see the problem - the spring inside the metal barrel will have broken. Take care, because at the other end of the spring is a small plastic washer that must be retained. Find a pen that has a short spring inside and use this as a replacement. If necessary, you can trim the spring to make it the right lenght. Ensure you have removed all broken pieces of spring, and reassemble. Try it out before finally attaching the pump inside the iron. It took me 2-3 attempts to get the spring tension right. If you can find a 'PENAC RB-085B BA1002' pen, the spring is perfect.

Once you have got it right, reassemble.

I have to replace the spring approx every 6 months as the replacement is obviously not meant for the job and wears or rusts or breaks. However, I am getting extended use from my otherwise broken iron.

Take care - things inside get HOT!!

Hope this helps.

Oct 22, 2008 | Irons

1 Answer

Sunbeam 4214 Clothes Iron with Retractable Cord won't heat.


first, i'll apologize for not posting pictures with this, but i didn't have a camera handy when i "fixed" it. i'll do my best to explain the sitch.

i also have a sunbeam 4124 whose retractor was jammed...the cord would not release more than two feet or so, nor would it retract. i was able to disassemble it, but broke some internal retaining clips meant to hold the retractor housing to the iron. WARNING!! do not attempt this if you do not want to void your warranty. i can only assume that the manufacturer did not want you to disassemble the cord return housing and as such, hid the retaining clips where it would be impossible to disengage them. i got lucky and only broke one set of the retaining clips....if you carry on, you stand a chance of breaking both sets, which will not allow you to reattach the retractor housing to your iron securely. best thing to do is call sunbeam and have them send you a new iron, but if you're bent on fixing it yourself, here's how i did it (you'll need one medium philips head screwdriver):

1) remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the iron. this will expose two screw holes (the third foot under the retractor button has no screw; this is the side where the reaining clips are buried).
2) remove the two screws
3) WARNING! this is where you have a good chance of breaking your iron. pull the base of the iron really hard, rocking it from side to side. there are two sets of retaining clips recessed in the housing of the iron. the button will come with the base of the iron, the entire cord retraction assembly is self-contained. you can carefully use a screwdriver to pry the two halves apart. also, be careful not to pull too hard as the electrical connections between the iron and the retractor assembly has only about 2 inches of slack, though the connections are just wire-nut'd together and could be reassembled in a pinch.
4) after the retractor housing is separated from the iron, remove the housing cap by unscrewing the four screws.
5) carefully separate the two halves of the housing; the spring may be loose inside and could snap out at you.

here's where my iron was broken....the coil spring is contained by a plastic tray that had snapped, probably due to somebody pulling the cord out too hard. a section of the tray had jammed itself into the inside of the housing, immobilizing the winding mechanism. my only recourse was to completely remove the spring and permanently extend the cord all the way (not one of the features i bought the iron for anyway, so what the heck). PLEASE be careful unwinding the spring if you have to do it....wouldn't want anybody poking out an eye inadvertantly.

6) reassemble the retractor housing by screwing the cap back on with the four screws
7) if you're lucky enough to keep one set of retainer clips, snap the base of the iron back on and reattach the two screws located under the feet.
8) rubber pads back in and voila!

hope this helps!

Mar 17, 2008 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron

1 Answer

Need way to open the iron 3302


Usually start at the cord end to locate internal screws to get top off then down to the next layer

Aug 01, 2007 | Toastmaster 3302 Iron

2 Answers

Retractable cord


first, i'll apologize for not posting pictures with this, but i didn't have a camera handy when i "fixed" it. i'll do my best to explain the sitch.

i also have a sunbeam 4124 whose retractor was jammed...the cord would not release more than two feet or so, nor would it retract. i was able to disassemble it, but broke some internal retaining clips meant to hold the retractor housing to the iron. WARNING!! do not attempt this if you do not want to void your warranty. i can only assume that the manufacturer did not want you to disassemble the cord return housing and as such, hid the retaining clips where it would be impossible to disengage them. i got lucky and only broke one set of the retaining clips....if you carry on, you stand a chance of breaking both sets, which will not allow you to reattach the retractor housing to your iron securely. best thing to do is call sunbeam and have them send you a new iron, but if you're bent on fixing it yourself, here's how i did it (you'll need one medium philips head screwdriver):

1) remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the iron. this will expose two screw holes (the third foot under the retractor button has no screw; this is the side where the reaining clips are buried).
2) remove the two screws
3) WARNING! this is where you have a good chance of breaking your iron. pull the base of the iron really hard, rocking it from side to side. there are two sets of retaining clips recessed in the housing of the iron. the button will come with the base of the iron, the entire cord retraction assembly is self-contained. you can carefully use a screwdriver to pry the two halves apart. also, be careful not to pull too hard as the electrical connections between the iron and the retractor assembly has only about 2 inches of slack, though the connections are just wire-nut'd together and could be reassembled in a pinch.
4) after the retractor housing is separated from the iron, remove the housing cap by unscrewing the four screws.
5) carefully separate the two halves of the housing; the spring may be loose inside and could snap out at you.

here's where my iron was broken....the coil spring is contained by a plastic tray that had snapped, probably due to somebody pulling the cord out too hard. a section of the tray had jammed itself into the inside of the housing, immobilizing the winding mechanism. my only recourse was to completely remove the spring and permanently extend the cord all the way (not one of the features i bought the iron for anyway, so what the heck). PLEASE be careful unwinding the spring if you have to do it....wouldn't want anybody poking out an eye inadvertantly.

6) reassemble the retractor housing by screwing the cap back on with the four screws
7) if you're lucky enough to keep one set of retainer clips, snap the base of the iron back on and reattach the two screws located under the feet.
8) rubber pads back in and voila!

hope this helps!

Jun 12, 2007 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron

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