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Re: Ignitor keeps sparking
Ignitor works , so it's not broken. It's probably a flame sensor. It may be broken or what happens frequently , it moved out of place. Other cause might be a low gas pressure. Even if it starts, the flame dies soon and after few repeats it goes into lockout. I do not beleive your 'box' is broken either
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Do you have a standing pilot style heater = Milivolt
or is it an IID = Spark style ignitor
Or... Hot surface Ignitor = glows red hot like an auto cigarette lighter?
Most common problem I have come across over the last few weeks, is pressure switch not closing, meaning - dirty filter. Try cleaning your filter: backwash or rinse cartridges.
is pilot staying on, and burning well?
If so, is htr's gas valve in ON position?
Do you hear sparking?
If No, then one of the safety switches is keeping heater from firing...
Toggle switch - on/off
Thermostat - turned up high?
Pressure switch - closes circuit when pump comes on
2 each high limits
Fusible link / roll out switch
If yes, either gas valve is off, is bad or the Ignition module is bad? Some call it grey box.
You will need to test for voltage at the common and MV posts of the gas valve - 24 to 28 volts. If voltage = bad gas valve; if no voltage = bad IID Module (Intermittent Ignition Device)
Do you see a bright red glow in the burner tray area?
If yes, either fuel supply is off, or Ignitor has worn out and the glow is not hot enough to ignite raw fuel.
If no, check voltage at Ignitor - depends on make and model of heater- could be as low as 24 volts and as much as 110 volts. So... No voltage at the supply wires = bad sending component, again depend on brand and model, could be ignition module, could be circuit board?
There can be several reason here are a few; 1 the main burner orifices need to be cleaned out. 2 if elevations have been greatly changed than it may require a different orifice. 3 is the comparison of befor and after truly the same? With infrared the intensity of heat is devided by 4 every foot further away.
There are three parts to the ignition system typically.
The ignitor that is either in the burner or outside the burner.
The spark ignitor switch that is located on the burner control. (( one for each control ))
The spark modual. the modual creates the hi-voltage spark.
If the burner that does not ignight with its control does not spark but does spark with one of the other controls then the spark ignitor control switch is bad.
You can test it with one of the other burner control knobs. (( just try a working burnder and when it clicks look at the bad burners ignitor and look for the spark.))
If the bad burner that wont ignight does not spark then either your modual is bas or the ignitor is shorting out.
If you see any little spark but it does not spark from point A to Point B like the other burners then your ignitor is shorting and should be replaced.
If your ignitor is ceramic and it is cracked, then it should be replaced.
I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint. a gas dryer blows air through a
burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists
essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any
part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low
or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors,
glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas
either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor
fails, the dryer will not heat.
The easiest way to check the ignitor
is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select
a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner
assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should
begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the
ignitor is working.
Will most probably be a problem with your ignition box. If you want to test this try taking off the hob by undoing the screws under the burners, be very careful with these however as it is very easy to strip the thread on them, once you have the hob off try unplugging the ignitor that keeps sparking and swapping where its plugged into the ignition box with another ignitor. These ignitor can be plugged into any plug in the box so no worries there. If the ignitor keeps sparkings in another hole its the ignitor. If the new ignitor sparks its the ignition box. It will most probably be the ignition box. Is a common fault
Depending on the exact model, it would have either a spark ignitor or a hot surface ingnitor. The HSI uses either 24 or 120 Volts, the spark only uses 24 V. Easiest way to check is to use a volt meter, disconnect the ignitor plug, use the volt meter leads to check voltage at the plug and have the boiler start its ignition cycle, if you have voltage during the cycle, the ignitor is bad. If you are unsure of checking for voltage, have a professional do it. You can be seriously hurt or electrocuted if you are not careful on 120V ignition systems.
it is strange that you have no gas and no spark! if you held a match to the burner and turned the burner valve on it would lite di spite a failed ignitor,but for it not to lite, the burner valve[its what the knob attaches too] would have to be blocked[thats rare]or ........i got it .....the knob is broken.thats the only thing the burner valve and the spark ignitor have in common.try a knob from another burner................again.you have spark,because others are working.spark on troubled burner would work if valve blocked at orifice outlet,and if spark failed you would still get gas they work independent of each other,[but in unison].thats why im thinking knob.its the item that works both .when you turn the knob it opens the gas valve and as the gas valve rotates by turning the knob it activates or turns the spark switch so it closes the curcit allowing the electricty to the spark moduel.hey i hope that helps a little. God bless ,tom
two options.first does the pilot flame look good (a nice blue flame)?if so you will see a metal probe next to the pilot,use some sandpaper and clean that probe up.if that solves your problem so be it.second if the first thing doesnt work its probably the ignitor board not sensing the flame.the way to definitly tell the one or the other use a small torch and heat up the probe like i said and turn the oven on.if the main burner comes on then you know its the probe which is called a thermocouple and is cheap.hope this helps.