Lost A/C efficiency and check condensor and noticed the HP pipe was frozen up. Tried a lower temp and high fan speed, tried reverse cycle and the condensor fan was working. I do have a car A/C background and when this happened it was usually a TX valve. Any suggestions??
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Teco split system freezing up.
I am assuming this unit to be running in A/C mode, not heat pump.
Evaporator freeze-up is up on units such as this is 99% of the time caused by reduced airflow across the evaporator. This could be due to dirty filters, dirt plugged evaporator, fan motor not running full RPM.
Systems like this tend not to use TX valves either, and a TX valve failure will rarely cause the evaporator to freeze up. If it fails open, then there has to sufficient refrigerant flow and pressure differential to flood the evaporator with low temperature refrigerant, in order to cause a freeze-up. If it fails closed, no cooling occurs, suction pressure goes to vacuum, and discharge pressure goes to the pressure of the refrigerant at the surrounding ambient temperature.
(I used to teach HVAC at a Jr college, as well as having designed equipment like this.)
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There are four relays for the cooling fans .low speed control , medium speed , high speed fan control relay 2 , high speed fan control relay 1, there is also a engine cooling fan resistor .The engine coolant temp. sensor would most likely cause the check engine light to be on . There is also a dual pressure switch , this is for the A/C . The cooling fans will be turned on at 213 degress low speed , high speed at 226 degress . If you had factory scan tool or a professional type you could view coolant temp data in pcm , you could also energize the relays to see if the system is operating normally . There are other repair shops beside dealers
Was the motherboard replaced because the temp was too high? May be the condenser fan was at fault all the time. Check you have power at the fan. If you have, replace the fan. If you have not, take a live from the compressor to the fan. This will bypass any hp or fan speed control switch and run the condenser fan with the compressor.
AFTER REPLACING THERMOSTAT DONT STOP OVERHEATING.CHECK THE COOLANT FAN CLUTCH.WITH HOT ENGINE THE CLUTCH FAN SHOULD HAVE RESISTANCE WHEN TURNING IT WITH HAND.IF NOT FREEWHEEL.FAULTY CLUTCH FAN.HAVE TO REPLACE CLUTCH ON FAN.BAD CLUTCH ON COOLING FAN WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEAT.WHEN CLUTCH FAN FREEWHEELS AT HIGH SPEEDS NOT PULLING ENOUGH AIR THROUGH RADIATOR CORES TO COOL DOWN ANTIFREEZE AND ENGINE.
There ae several causes for the symptom you describe.
Unit off 5 hours and now seems to be making it's own ice. (Hail reference)
This is usually caused by a restriction in the coolant system. Most often the restriction occurs at the evaporator manifold. Once debris (internal corrosion in coolant system or any particulate) is in the coolant system is blocks 1 or 2 of the 3 manifold distribution holes of the evaporator. When that happens one or 2 sections of the evaporator start freezing up. As it freezes up the temp sensor notices the vast temp change and shuts off the compressor. (Fan still running) The ice then melts from fan air and then gets injested into the blower fan. Hence you get the hail sound.
As for the drain problem An Air-Conditioner that is used 19 - 24 hours everyday should have a 90 day total cleaning cycle. This involves removing the fan assy and using a power washer on the condensor, evaporator and both fan blades. If you look in the drain pan drain area it will will have a mucous looking goo in the drain pan. Once the drain hole is clogged the condensor gets dirty and the unit efficiency degrades.
I doubt there is anything that you as the homeowner can do to stop the icing. The coolant system will most likely have to be purged to get rid of the internal foreign debris and the coolant levels serviced. You can have it cleaned but even after cleaning it is highly probable that your symtom is going to repeat.
The evaporator fan (little fan in freezer), is the one that blows cool air to the fridge. If your evaporator is freezing up, it could be due to the thermostat set too high, and the fridge control set too low. Set freezer temp. one number lower, wait 24 hrs and check, if evaporator still freezes, lower it one more setting. If temp in fridge is OK. leave it alone, or adjust accordingly.
You post is not clear as to where the freeze-up is occurring. I'm going to assume the outdoor unit is frozen up.
Heat Pumps don't generally freeze up at 60 degrees. If the ice around the unit has an uneven pattern (for example a thick spot around the center or at the very bottom) could indicate a low refrigerant charge. If the ice is even throughout, it may be one of the following:
*Sticking Contactor*.....turn the system off at your thermostat and check to make sure the unit outside shut off. If it doesn't turn off, it is likely to be the contactor.
*Failed Defrost Thermostat*.....if the defrost thermostat fails "open", the system will never go into defrost.
*Failed Defrost Control Board*......this could also prevent the system from going into defrost
*Failed Reversing Valve*........put your system in COOL mode and check to see if it will blow cold air inside approx 16 - 22 degF lower than room temperature.
*Failed/Failing Condensor Fan Motor*.......ensure the condenser fan motor is running during heat and cool modes. The condensor fan motor will not run in OFF/Satisfied Mode or in Defrost Mode.
I hope this helps. Good Luck! :-)
not freezing icedraem is an issue, bread not so much, different breads contain different ingrediants that may or may not freeze, forst offthough wher is unit located??? in garage??? if so be aware that it may not operate efficiently ion ambient temps lower then 55 degrees, but if this is in your kitchen i would suspect a "refrigeration"/sealed system issue, perhaps "low on charge and not able to maintain a frozen set temp. Meat may stay frozen ( for a little while anyway, but the ice cream is the first to show indications of problem
Do you still have your manual? If not download it from Gigabyte at this link:http://www.giga-byte.com/Products/Motherboard/Products_Spec.aspx?ProductID=2637 Enter your bios & open manual to page 51, "PC Health Status". Here you can monitor the CPU temp, system temp & CPU fan speed. Notice the manual shows the example of system temp to be 30degs C & current CPU Temperature is at 47degs C. One would think these temps are reasonable. My CPU fan runs between 3308Rpm & 3341Rpm. CPU @ 41deg C & MB @ 31deg C. AMD 64 X2 Dual Core 4200+ 2.21 GHz. Suggest you try this. If your running Win XP. Open system properties. Click the Advanced tab. Click the settings button under Startup and Recovery. Remove the check mark to the left of, Automatically restart. Windows should provide an error message if & when the system freezes. This will help in finding what is causing the system to freeze. If your CPU fan is running under 3000Rpm you might consider buying a faster fan or add a case fan to the side of the case to help bring in fresh air to blow onto the CPU fan & PCI-Express card. Here is a decent lace to look for case fans: http://www.xoxide.com/casefans.html
Hey how's it going? I may have the info you need, but first I need you to go through a check list to see if there is a simple fix.
Check to see if there are any obstructions in the freezer drain (freezer drain located inside freezer compartment behind back panel lower right hand corner of the freezer coils) if there are obstructions or debris remove and clean with a mild dish washing detergent and water, check to see that water can drain freely. see if this helps.when the coils freeze is the ice flaky or is it frozen solid ice? if the ice is flaky it could mean that either the refridges/freezer door are left open to long "check your door gaskets or seals by closing the on a dollar bill if it pulls out easily with little to know resistance your door gaskets may need to be replaced. After you defrost the freezer coils did you notice if there was water in the condensor pan, if so good sign. (condensor pan: is the pan that collects the water that drips through the drain hole of the freezer compartment caused by the heating of the coil by the coil heater: water that enters the pan collects and is reused by the condensor fan by blowing warm air partly into the water and through the condensor coils causing them to cool.)if you still need to test your bi-metal therostat or your glass heater/ice pipe heater, you will need a multimeter and knowledge on the use of it.(IF YOU 'RE NOT NOT COMFORTABLE AROUND ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICITY PLEASE CONTACT A QUALIFIED REPAIR SERVICE AND REMEMBER TO UNPLUG APPLIANCE BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY REPAIRS) for more info on how to test please reply,Good Luck, be safe..