Question about Whirlpool LSR7333 Top Load Washer

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Water leaking into tub

I noticed that there is water leaking into the tub of the washer. I can't see under the "lid" but it is leaking on both the right and left sides. What do I need to do to fix this??? Model #LSR7233EZO and serial# CF3828122.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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This sounds like a bad water valve. Replace the water valve and it should stop the water leak.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

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My washer wont do anything!


It could be the lid switch, i had similar problem, changed the switch, helped for a day, changed it again, same...So then i did a diagnostic test. it said that it was the main control board,changed it ($135), didn't help. I noticed that was a little bit of water on the floor under the shifter, changed that, worked for a while, then i noticed that it was wet again. I traced it to worn bearings that the tub spins on which wore the tub seal and made water leak on the shifter electrical connection, Changed the bearing which is the whole transmission and comes with new tub seals. It stopped the leak and has been working for more than a year.

Mar 24, 2014 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Water leaking (a lot) from underneath washer


WATER IS NOT GOING INTO THE TUB, INSTEAD GOING OUT. GET A PAINT SCRAPER N PRY THE LID OPEN TO MAKE SURE THE TUB IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU MOVED IT. THERE'S TWO CLIPS BETWEEN THE LID PANEL AND THE MACHINE. PUSH IN HARD AND IT RELEASE THE LID PANEL. FROM THERE YOU WILL SEE THE TUB AND ALL THE WATER DISPENSING UNITS. IT COULD ALSO BE A RIP IN ONE OF THE HOSE WHEN YOU MOVED THE MACHINE. GOOD LUCK

BOYNISMO@YAHOO.COM OR 714-334-1998

Mar 10, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Water leaking from machine


You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components. NOTE: Its a good idea to run a small amount of water in the tub PRIOR to removing the casing in order to get a better idea of where the leak may be coming from. The washer will not run without the lid switch plugged in, so fill about 1/4 full and shut the washer off before disassembling everything.

I know you replaced the drain pump, but did you verify if the hoses were good? Check both the hoses on the pump to ensure they do not have any cracks that could be causing the leak.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back. Check for cracks and loose clamps.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:


1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

Sep 01, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

Whirlpool Mod # LSB6200KQC continues to fill with water and does not stop...it overflows. I also noticed that it started to leak from the bottom. Thanks for the info about the pressure hose switch. The top...


I already posted this under your original post.

The other end of the hose connects to the air dome on the lower right hand side of the outer tub. You will need to remove the outer washer casing to access it. Just follow the steps in the link provided:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397094-replacing_water_pump

Another common source of leakage is the drain pump. These pumps are sealed units and are not serviceable. If they leak, they must be replaced. That's why I included the link above. The steps required to replace the pump, also include remove the washer casing.

If the air dome hose had come loose the leak would be significant. I could not find a diagram, either, but I did find the replacement hose under the "Agitator, Basket, and Tub Parts" section as item 19. The cost is about $8.

If the leak is coming from the wash tub, this is commonly caused by either a bad tub seal, or cracked tub. We'll cross that bridge, if needed...this is not a difficult repair, but it is time consuming. The seal itself is cheap, but a new tub costs over $100.

If the washer leaks from the rear of the washer, this is usually caused by a leaky water inlet valve, or associated dispenser hoses. The only way to tell is to remove the outer casing and notice where the drip patterns are. The washer will not run with the lid switch connector unplugged, so you will need to run a small amount of water into the tub before shutting it off and removing the case. This will aid you in locating anything associated with the tub or drainage. If the inlet valve is leaking, there should be noticeable water marks.

If this still does not solve your problem, please let me know.

PS No need to post new questions for the same job. Just add your comments/questions to your original post and I will receive email notification. This will save you the need to open an addtional post, and I will get notified without having to search for it.

Aug 10, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer leaks when it's starting to fill.


Can you explain where the leak may be coming from? Is this a small leak or a huge gush of water?

If the leak is coming from under the front of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking drain pump or drain hoses. These pumps are not serviceable and will require replacing.

If the leak is coming from the back of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking water inlet valve or associated dispenser hoses.

If the leak is coming from under the center of the wash tub, this can be caused by a bad tub or cracked outer tub shell. If the seal is leaking, tell-tale signs of water marks will be visible on the gearcase (transmission). If the tub is cracked, it can be temporarily repaired with 2 part epoxy, but will ultimately require replacement (not a common problem).

Now...if the leak begins when the washer starts to fill and is a huge gush of water, this is caused by the air hose coming loose from the air dome. The air dome is a small plastic air gap on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There is a small rubber air hose that connects to it and runs all the way to the pressure switch inside the operator console (located behind the load level selector knob). This is what shuts the water off at the appropriate water level. If the hose comes loose, there will be a huge gush of water pouring out of the wash tub (air dome) when the tub reaches about 1/4 full.

In any case, you will need to remove the outer washer casing to access the interior. Follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.


To re-install the case, follow these steps:

1. With the lid of the washer open, grasp the case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.


If any of these symptoms sound familiair, and you need addtional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 01, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 series is leaking water. Could it be the pump?


It depends on WHERE the leak is coming from. If the leak is coming from the FRONT area of the washer, the drain pump or drain hoses are suspect. If the leak is coming from the REAR of the washer, the water inlet hoses, water inlet valve, or dispenser hoses may be suspect. If the leak is coming from under the CENTER portion of the wash tub, the tub seal or wash tub may be suspect.

The first step is to remove the exterior washer case to gain access to view. The following link explains how to replace a water pump (if required) on your washer, but also includes all the steps necessary to access the washer interior:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump

Allow the washer to fill about 1/3 of the way and turn it off before unplugging and removing the washer casing. The washer will not run once you disconnect the lid switch connector, so you will need some water in the tub to see where the leak may be coming from.

NOTE: If the problem IS a leaking pump, these pumps are not serviceable and will need to replaced.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 09, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer is leaking water at the bottom. Can this be repaired?


Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.

Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.

Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.

Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).

To reinstall the case, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.

NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.

May 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

Leaking from underneath. Doesn't appear to be the incoming hoses or connections or the drain.


Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.

Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.

Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.

Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).

To reinstall the case, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.

NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.

May 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer leaks under tub


Can you see exactly where the water is coming from? When the machine is spinning and you lift the lid does it stop in less than four seconds? Does the water come from the side of the tub near an area where a tube attaches? Is there water staining down the side of the tub and an area near the top shows leaking? Is there rust and oil stains at the base of the gear case? Please blog back, SearsTechToo.

Oct 06, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water Leaking from Lid


Sound like some water or detergent is being directed up instead of down into the tub and eventually leaks out when you open the lid. You need to check, maybe using the Service Program, to see how it fills and how the detergent comes out.

Oct 27, 2007 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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