Question about KitchenAid KUIS18NNT 18" Automatic Ice Maker with 35lbs. Storage Capacity, Drop Down Door & Accepts Custom Panels

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My Kitchenaid KUIS18NNTB2 Ice Machine seems to need a new recirculation pump. When removing the pump for replacement, I noticed the middle wire on the water sensor has come loose. What problem is this

Ice forming in reservoir, corrosion on water sensor wires causing one to pull loose.

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  • Expert
  • 249 Answers

What is your model number is then we can get started then

Posted on Jan 18, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jumptrout51
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SOURCE: Stand Alone ice maker leak

Your model number must be plumbed to a external drain.
You may have to install a condensation pump to do this.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: kitchenaid stand alone ice does not make ice feel heat inside bin

Either has electric problem or mechanical.
way to tell is plug it up, turn it on turn on water. If its sending in water unplug it and if water stops it is electrical and the ice maker head is causing the problem if it stops the water valve is stuck open and you can disassemble and clean it out sometimes. A slight lime scale can cause this.
Hope this helps please rate me accordingly and good luck.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ice jams in KUIS18NNJB Kitchenaid under counter ice maker

There are 2 sets of wires on the cutting grid that are perpendicular to each other. Electrical current passing through the wires creates heat that melts the ice. The first set cuts one direction, then the ice strips drop onto the second set that cuts the strips into cubes. Remove the cutter grid and check if the wires are broken. If they are, electrical current can't pass through the wires, so no heat. Restringing kits are available to fix this. If the wires aren't broken, you'll need a voltmeter to see if current is reaching the wires. If it isn't, then the transformer has likely failed.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid stand alone ice maker.

Check and see if your cutting grid is still lined up on the back side towards the freezer plate. I have had the cutter miss align on some and failed to see it then just have to remove the thumb screws and re set the back end. Feel for more roughness from scale. Especially on the sides and edges. you may need to clean it again

This unit I believe is set to allow water in when it goes through a harvest. it wont refill until the coldest temp is reached then will stop filling after the warmest temp is reached.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kitchenaid under counter ice maker:

Kitchen Aid Ice maker is a piece of junk. Best to fix it is to get rid of it and tell friends not to buy it.

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

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Icemaker Kitchenaid KUIA18PNLS2 water won't run over the chill plate.


Hi,

Replace the recirculating pump, that pump must run to bring water from the reservoir to the chill plate. A quick teat for you, Turn off unit wait 2 mins, turn back on, tat this time the unit should fill for a minute, run recirculating pump for one minute, fill again 1 minute, than run compressor with the recirculating pump. Anythings fails at this point the component will need to be replaced.

Good Luck

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Kitchenaid stand alone ice maker not producing ice. Water fills into the resevoir but do not see water flowing on to the ice pan. water drains from the tub fine when called for and fills back up. Was...


most likely the recirculating pump is jammed or has failed... ive been in service industry for 18 years and actually have a kitchen aid stainless steel ice machine myself.... if you get into unit and remove the resorvoir and white plastic shield around pump which is located on right side normally.. then there is 3 1/4 inch screws to remove from the pump and the water line usually attached on side of pump plate just unsnap... unplug the molex plug and pull out... you can check impellar for scaling and or build up turn with hand.. if you think you free it up clean real well and test with a power cord while out. you will have to rig something to the molex plug and plug into a 110 outlet and test... if it is bad get you a new one and replace.... this is a common problem ...good luck to you

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I keep getting an Ld code on my cabrio. It always has 14 minutes left. I even unplugged and replugged it, and it goes right back to the code. I had to have a new computer board put into it less than a year...


Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

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Kenmore oasis he top loader shows LD error code. got back panel off, now what?


Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

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1 Answer

3 speed Recirculation pump lost middle speed


It sounds like you might have had a power surge and burnt the windings on the medium speed. If it is bothersome, you will need to replace either the motor or the whole pump. (not sure if replacing just the motor is an option.)

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1 Answer

Kenmore Top loading washing machne F4 error. (110.20052994)


It spins, but doesn't pumpIf your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

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It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. 


If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

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1 Answer

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check the water line into the icemaker, to make sure that you don't have a water leak.

the reason the fridge is running is due to the fact that it's trying to remove as much warm air out as possible.

i would have a technician look at it.

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2 Answers

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on it as to you ice it is on a separate valve as the water in the door so the water flow don't mean a lot in this case remove the front plastic cover on the icemaker and you will see a bunch of little holes make a jumper wire out #10 or 12 house wire strip about 1/4 inch off the ends an insert in the holes marked t&h this will start a test cycle make sure you hold the plastic insulation so you don't get bit if the ice maker starts cycling remove the wire and watch for it to stop listen for the icemaker valve to open if the ice maker finishes and the valve didn’t fill replace the water valves if the icemaker doesnt cycle and you may have to kind of twist the jumper back and forth to get it to make contact depending on the gauge you used then replace the ice maker motor module if you hear the valve open and the ice maker doesnt fill check for a frozen ice fill tube that should do it

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I don't know if this is your problem but I had a similar problem and it was low water pressure causing the blades to freeze up. The valve on the water tubing leading to the refridgerator was not fully open and the tubing was kinked.

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