Question about GE Dishwashers
The door will still open and close, but when it's completely open, the hinge is over-extended and the rack rolls right out. Is there a part I can replace to fix it?
Here's a try.
You need to pull the unit out from the hole it's in so you can examine it.
Most installations have only two screws holding the two tabs to the counter at the top front.
Open the dishwasher door, and look at the very top and see if there are two screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop. If so, remove them.
The dishwasher should now pull out of the hole it is in, BUT, pull it only about halfway out, because there are several connections you do not want to break.
There is a wire hookup, a drain hose hookup , and a feedwater line hookup.
I'm hoping you can do this without disconnection all that.
Try opening and closing the door and see if you can gently bend the metal arms to make it better, or identify what is needing replacement.
Get on your computer or someone else's and type in Sears Parts.
Sears offers free schematics online that will show you pictures you can blow up to any size for any machine.
You will need to take the make and model from the plate on the door or the body of your dishwasher to get the right schematic.
If you need to order parts, many places on line sell them.
Good luck with your efforts.
Posted on Jan 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dishwasher door latch
Check for a couple of screws to the left and right of the latch handle. Remove them and the unit should slide out and allow you access... By the way...if they are loose, tighten them first...you may just fix the problem.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
SOURCE: dishwasher door latch
I just had this problem (or should I say, finally had the time to deal with it). Google searches revealed different ways to get the door open including repairmen with crowbars (causing replacement of the entire control assembly $$$), having to back out the top screws that hold the dishwasher in place (and to the top of the counter) with pliers, then moving the dishwasher out from the counter.
Nuts to all that.
First things first. Turn OFF the power to the dishwasher.
I wound up on my back first watching how the handle moved and which side seemed to be loose, in my case the right side was moving freely. After first trying to hold the handle in the "down" position with a springhook (to no avail) I wound up biasing the handle to the right (with a screwdriver inserted on the left side of the handle) while moving the handle in the "operate" direction. Suddenly (and without warning) the entire handle assembly moved to the right and created an opening that made it simple to stick a screwdriver up to operate the latch manually.
Four screws later the control panel was out, the offending broken handle assembly was in my hands to discover that they could have easily made the little tabs the hold the handle in place a whole lot sturdier, but let's not go there...
If I had to do the whole thing again it would have taken me less than 5 minutes to open it up I'm sure. Now to simply order the part and install it when it arrives. The best part is we can still run the dishwasher until it gets here!
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.
With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.
Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.
Posted on May 07, 2009
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