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The pins on the heating element protection thermostat for a Promac Green Sche2 espresso coffee machine are numbered 11,21,31 & 12,22,32. It has 6 conductors coloured red, brown & black. I know that the black conductors go to pins 21 & 31, however I am unsure where to connect the red & brown conductors to pins 11, 31 & 12, 32.

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  • Bruce Thompson Jan 08, 2013

    The purpose of the heating element protection thermostat is to control the Sirai Pressurestat. There are 6 colour coded conductors from the pressurestat that connect to the thermostat i.e. to pins 11, 21,31 & 12, 22, 32.

  • Bruce Thompson Jan 08, 2013

    Ok ... let me rephrase my problem. I am in the process of replacing a manual reset heating element protection thermostat on a Promac Green Sche2 espresso coffee machine which connects or rather works in conjunction with the Sirai Commercial Pressurestat. There are 2 sets of 3 contacts on the Pressurestat - one set n/o (normally open) the other n/c (normally closed) one suspects. In total those contacts are connected via 2 same coloured set of conductors i.e. red, black & brown. My problem is that I need to attach those conductors to the thermostat pins numbered 11, 21, 31 & 12, 22, 32. I can confirm that I know that the black conductors go to pins 21 & 22. What I need to know is what is the correct positioning of the other two sets of conductors red & brown. I do not want to attach them to the wrong pins for fear of an electrical catastrophe!

  • Bruce Thompson Jan 10, 2013

    Basically ... all I am wanting to do is reconnect the heating circuit i.e. from the pressurestat to the safety thermostat. Is there anyone out there who can help me please?

  • Bruce Thompson Jan 24, 2013

    All sorted ... thanks to all those who followed my post ... cheers!



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Changing the control board on a SL 90 Re: Checking and Resoldering bad Solder Joints on an SL90

#1 Phillip screwdriver
Scissors or Wire Cutters
Soldering Kit

Step 1.
Unplug Machine and remove the water tank.

Step 2.
Unscrew and Remove the recessed Phillips screw from the top back of the machine, right where the top of the water tank sits.

Step 3.
With the front machine resting against your chest, so the faceplate does not "pop" out, pull from the back -top of the machine (cup warmer), towards the front. To remove the top of the machine (cup warmer) you only need to slide it forward until the faceplate is vertical (perhaps ¾ of an inch), we caution against bringing it any further forward than this point. This will allow you to remove the top. You may let it dangle over the back of the machine where your water tank sits as it won’t hurt the machine. Take off the faceplate by carefully unplugging it from your power board on the left side of the machine.

Step 4.
There may be a white plastic zip tie that holds down your power board. You can remove this piece using scissors or wire cutters (please be very careful!). Next, slide your power board up and out of the two black metal sleeves. Do not worry about disconnecting any wires, as you only need to look at the back of the electrical board where all the small metal dots are. Notice the picture below as it highlights the solder joints that control the heating of your machine. If any of these look discolored (brownish-black) or is a dull gray (vs. shinny silver) then it is going to need to be resoldered.


Step 5.
If you have a Soldering Kit at home, resolder these three joints, making sure to melt some of the original solder. Once you are finished, put your machine back together and test it.

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