Question about Refrigerators
My Liebherr which is two years and nine months old has stopped cooling. Think its working slightly but isnt at all cold, even when turned up to seven. The lights on, the compressor is still whirling away, so presumed it was the thermostat. But had a chat with a local repair firm and they said it probably wasnt worth fixing as it could also be that the compressor wasnt pushing the gas round properly or that none was getting round at all and that wouldnt be worth fixing on an undercounter model. But they also were surprised that a relatively new model should have just packed up. I recognise that its probably safer just to ditch it and get a new one but on principle it seems wrong to through away something to landfill that looks like its almost working. Does anyone know of any ways to easily establish whether its the thermostat or the compressor Thanks very much for your help Catherine
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You said, you recently had a problem with my Candy fridge freezer (it defrosted overnight and wasnt cooling at all) and a repair shop diagnosed a thermostat problem. I have replaced the thermostat, Now the freezer freezes without any problems but the fridge does not go cold at all.
Also the compressor is running constantly
This is my first thought
Fresh Food temperature is
too warm. Freezer
temperature is satisfactory.
1. Fresh Food control is set too
2. Set fresh food control to a colder setting. Allow 24
hours for temperature to stabilize.
3.Then see if you do not have your freezer articles packed full up to the top, or covering the cold air vents usually found in the rear of the freezer compartment.
The fridge and the freezer share the cold air so the air must not be restricted from travel form the freezer to the fridge and back!
This would also cause the compressor to run none stop trying to cool the fridge!
So check your air vents in the freezer.
I'll bet you did not know they were there !
Most of us never notice!
Hope this works for you.
Please let me know that one of these solutions worked for you!
or if you have any questions.
Thank You, huuum
Please remember to leave a rating!
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
SOURCE: AC,DC, gas RV fridge Dometic
You more than likely need to replace the control cable between the upper and lower board. It comes as a kit with the upper board. You can also do a bypass test by unplugging your thermoster from the circuit board. The thermoster is the temperature control for the refrigerator nothing to do with the freezer.
734 777 6432
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
SOURCE: fridge is no longer cold
Either a bad relay on the compressor. Or a scized or locked up compresor. My co. in NJ gets $95 to replace the relay, $450. to change compressor. $25.00 just to check it out. The Dealer is always more $$
Shop around, Smaller companies, smaller price.
If your unit has a Embraco compressor it may just need a new relay. The Tecumseh compressors all went bad and now are replaced by Embraco's
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
SOURCE: Fridge no longer stays cold
Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:
* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure
This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer
When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test
If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Hope this helpout in solving the problem
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
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