My s24 all of a sudden stopped heating water and shut off, now it is completely dead... Nothing wrong with power switch, pump or water level meeter.. What could be wrong?/Thanks!

check drive motor

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

if the water pump is working up 9 bars, the coffee group is clean from coffee and scale then your grinding coffee is too fine or more than 8 grams.

Hi
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
When it doesnt spin or drain...

The drain line is probably clogged. Maybe that a sock or other piece of clothing get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. In this case it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump.Remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. In case it clean there, check the outer tub port- open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then,try to remove the clothing through the port.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Here's the acid test: If the water is overflowing, turn off power (timer off, unplug machine, or switch off breaker) and if water stops flowing, you have a bad water level switch or obstructed water level tube leading to the level switch. If the water continues to flow in when power is off, and the only way to stop it is to shut off the water supply valves, then replace the water inlet valve of the washer, which for your machine is part number WH13X10024 and generally goes for about $50.

check for a blown head gasket it will sometimes pump air into the heads and make the coolant levels seem fine but in truth they are not and check the water pump for rusted fins make shure the water level sucks down during sharp throtteling of the motor if so the cooling system is fine as far as that goes but where to start

1.) tempature switch located on the motor it tells the ecu when to kick on the cooling fan

2.) fans spin freely without taking force

3.) thermostat it could be stuck closed due to someone at sometime only running water without antifreez and causing the pressure pin to rust and freeze the gate shut

4.) monitor the water levels if they go down suddenly as 1 gallon of water a week or 2 weeks its a bad head gasket you can see this on spark plugs as well

and for most your water pump make shure you get good heat from the heater at low running tempatures and start the car and monitor what the water in the radiator does (while its cold) the water in a car is over 195% and can easily do harm if the car is just warmed up not even close to over heating so you can imagine what it could do at an over heated state



but get the problem fixed or else you can result in blown head gaskets water in the oil piston breakdown do to rust in the piston walls and even worse complete engine failure

The control box is always connected to the power
supply, that why it got power even the pump is not running. However, it does not consume much energy
as when the sub. pump is running. The operation of your pump is fully automatic. There's liquid level controller inside the well and a water level controller (float switch) at the holding tank. I believe there's nothing wrong with your sub. pump. Everything is
normal. If the control box senses abnormality, it
will just shut the sub. pump off. Just send in your e-mail if you need our assistance. God bless you.
it

Sounds like the fuel supply pipe inside the fuel tank has hole that's why if the fuel level is about 1/4 and the pipe hole is not completely soak in the fuel, the fuel pump will sucks air instead of fuel and this can cause of lack of power first until the engine shut off but if your problem is sudden shut off without other symptoms like lack of power or engine rough running first before engine shutting off, most probably it was electical problem.

Yes there is a small red breaker switch on the left side of the boiler tank. Unplug the unit first then remove the left side cover and just push down on the red breaker switch to reset it.

"preesure switch" built into controller, remove 2 screws behind console nad check the clear hose hasnt become diconnected, or perhaps has a crack in it not able to "read" water level