Question about Bang and Olufsen Beosound 4000 Shelf System

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Have a customer who has B & O system; cannot afford the 15k tv to complete s/s system. has B & O system wires with din end cut off on one end. I pinned out which wires feed audio to speakers (40000 series) found brown wire with ground surrounding it. hooked up with speaker to line level converterd, but get 60 cycle hum through speakers as soon as they are powered up.any direction for me?

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SOURCE: Hum from B&o active speakers

Hi,  You may try to not connect the ground pin of the main cable of Arcam Solo. Using a 2 poles adaptor is the simple way. Try to find hum is still there. And using better RCA cables, like twisted pair, quad wires cable is better. Because, it is long-run (over 2 metre long), EMI and RFI are easy to enter the signal path.

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

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Right, well,IFyour TV has a DB15FemalePlug on it then you CAN, connect it up and it will work, as a second "Monitor". OR If thelaptop,has a "Composite Video" a Yellow RCA socket, then you can, connect to the TV's Composite IN. & it will be a second monitor. Otherwise youcannot, the VGA signal is NOT compatible with a TV's input. SOME cards have a connector that plugs into the DB15 and to the TV, but they are "Special". In saying that though you can "Micky Mouse" things together and get an output, but it real poor quality, and disappointing results, there are various posts on the net about doing this if you wish.
Remember DRIVERS, you also need the drivers installed & setup correctly in order for the hardware to work. As a tip, When connecting to a TV, always connect like this......First, plug all cables into TV's correct Video input(s). Connect up the Sound, plug all cables into laptop, turn TV ON. NOW, start the laptop, you should now soon see the an image.
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At the rear or side of the PC there should be either or both of a 15 Pin DIN Plug, HDMI socket. or a Yellow RCA or 4 -7 pin DIN. Now IF these are present then YES you can connect to a TV. Now some TV's have a connector a DB15 MALE, so that the cable from the PC to the TV, is DB15. this plugs in directly, with appropriate DB15 cable. This, however, will ONLY take the VIDEO to the TV, Audio is delivered via the "Audio Out" Jack on PC, and Plugged into the AV Sockets on the TV, with a dual cored coaxial cable, they are Red & White. Some PC's also have a Yellow RCA Connector, OR a 4 -7 Pin DIN Socket, that requires a Special Adapter Cable (That generally came with the unit, and are colored and marked as to output) to use, for Video/Audio Out to TV. This signal is Composite or SVHS Video & Stereo Out. This connects up TO the TV's Composite/SVHS input Jacks and the Red & White Audio IN, RCA Jacks, &/or DIN SVHS socket. Also we have "Component Video" marked "Y" "Pb" & "Pr" these simply go color to color at BOTH ends, this is where the Red, Green, & Blues, colored Ends, of the Wires, goes, remembering that this is ALL only Video. With this method, you still must use the AV, red & White, Audio, Inputs to get the "Sound" into the unit
First you need to know if your PC can output to a TV. Then you need to get the adapter & cables that connect the PC to the TV. Then you need the correct TV drivers installed for your video card. When they are all installed, you need to "Enable" that Monitors, the TV's, Desktop. You need to set either a "Cloned" display or "Spanned, Extended Desktop". Go to "Display Settings" Now ensure the TV/Monitor connected has the correct input/output display settings. Adjust the screens resolution via the resoloution "Slider", it is best to start with, 800x600 32 bit color. or even lower. and once working OK, THEN increase to max resolution, your TV can handle, find out from manual. Once it is all connected up. It should all just work great. Now, from then on, &, to get it to work every-time, the process is. Turn everything OFF. Connect the leads between PC & TV, Turn the TV, ON.Then, startup the PC up. It should "Detect" that it has TWO "Monitors" ie: One Monitor & One TV/Monitor, & you should see your desktop appear after a bit. Now you have screen 1 & screens 2. Now, if you are using "Cloned" mode, then whatever is displayed on the Master monitor, will be displayed on the TV. If you used Spanned, mode, in this mode, however, you will have to."Drag" the Video window, over to the TV, and it is though, you have one "Big Desktop". Now IF using Nvidia or ATI then BOTH of those have thier OWN, Control Panel, this, all then can make it all a lot easier to do it. So I would suggest that this method be used. But if you get stuck, or just want to do it by hand, then the the "By Hand" method is the only way.There is a great program called MultiMon, this allows great control over dual displays, and is well worth installing.

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How can i get my laptopto display on my jvc d series tv


At the rear or side of the PC there should be either or both of a 15 Pin DIN Plug, HDMI socket. or a Yellow RCA or 4 -7 pin DIN. Now IF these are present then YES you can connect to a TV. Now some TV's have a connector a DB15 MALE, so that the cable from the PC to the TV, is DB15. this plugs in directly, with appropriate DB15 cable. This, however, will ONLY take the VIDEO to the TV, Audio is delivered via the "Audio Out" Jack on PC, and Plugged into the AV Sockets on the TV, with a dual cored coaxial cable, they are Red & White. Some PC's also have a Yellow RCA Connector, OR a 4 -7 Pin DIN Socket, that requires a Special Adapter Cable (That generally came with the unit, and are colored and marked as to output) to use, for Video/Audio Out to TV. This signal is Composite or SVHS Video & Stereo Out. This connects up TO the TV's Composite/SVHS input Jacks and the Red & White Audio IN, RCA Jacks, &/or DIN SVHS socket. Also we have "Component Video" marked "Y" "Pb" & "Pr" these simply go color to color at BOTH ends, this is where the Red, Green, & Blues, colored Ends, of the Wires, goes, remembering that this is ALL only Video. With this method, you still must use the AV, red & White, Audio, Inputs to get the "Sound" into the unit
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Windows Vista Ultimate Edition: with vista on my laptop, how can I connect to my t...


At the rear or side of the PC there should be either or both of a 15 Pin DIN Plug, HDMI socket. or a Yellow RCA or 4 -7 pin DIN. Now IF these are present then YES you can connect to a TV. Now some TV's have a connector a DB15 MALE, so that the cable from the PC to the TV, is DB15. this plugs in directly, with appropriate DB15 cable. This, however, will ONLY take the VIDEO to the TV, Audio is delivered via the "Audio Out" Jack on PC, and Plugged into the AV Sockets on the TV, with a dual cored coaxial cable, they are Red & White. Some PC's also have a Yellow RCA Connector, OR a 4 -7 Pin DIN Socket, that requires a Special Adapter Cable (That generally came with the unit, and are colored and marked as to output) to use, for Video/Audio Out to TV. This signal is Composite or SVHS Video & Stereo Out. This connects up TO the TV's Composite/SVHS input Jacks and the Red & White Audio IN, RCA Jacks, &/or DIN SVHS socket. Also we have "Component Video" marked "Y" "Pb" & "Pr" these simply go color to color at BOTH ends, this is where the Red, Green, & Blues, colored Ends, of the Wires, goes, remembering that this is ALL only Video. With this method, you still must use the AV, red & White, Audio, Inputs to get the "Sound" into the unit
First you need to know if your PC can output to a TV. Then you need to get the adapter & cables that connect the PC to the TV. Then you need the correct TV drivers installed for your video card. When they are all installed, you need to "Enable" that Monitors, the TV's, Desktop. You need to set either a "Cloned" display or "Spanned, Extended Desktop". Go to "Display Settings" Now ensure the TV/Monitor connected has the correct input/output display settings. Adjust the screens resolution via the resoloution "Slider", it is best to start with, 800x600 32 bit color. or even lower. and once working OK, THEN increase to max resolution, your TV can handle, find out from manual. Once it is all connected up. It should all just work great. Now, from then on, &, to get it to work every-time, the process is. Turn everything OFF. Connect the leads between PC & TV, Turn the TV, ON. Then, startup the PC up. It should "Detect" that it has TWO "Monitors" ie: One Monitor & One TV/Monitor, & you should see your desktop appear after a bit. Now you have screen 1 & screens 2. Now, if you are using "Cloned" mode, then whatever is displayed on the Master monitor, will be displayed on the TV. If you used Spanned, mode, in this mode, however, you will have to."Drag" the Video window, over to the TV, and it is though, you have one "Big Desktop". Now IF using Nvidia or ATI then BOTH of those have thier OWN, Control Panel, this, all then can make it all a lot easier to do it. So I would suggest that this method be used. But if you get stuck, or just want to do it by hand, then the the "By Hand" method is the only way.There is a great program called MultiMon, this allows great control over dual displays, and is well worth installing.

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1 Answer

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Right, well, IF your TV has a DB15 Female Plug on it then you CAN, connect it up and it will work, as a second "Monitor". OR If the laptop, has a "Composite Video" a Yellow RCA socket, then you can, connect to the TV's Composite IN. & it will be a second monitor. Otherwise you cannot, the VGA signal is NOT compatible with a TV's input. SOME cards have a connector that plugs into the DB15 and to the TV, but they are "Special". In saying that though you can "Micky Mouse" things together and get an output, but it real poor quality, and disappointing results, there are various posts on the net about doing this if you wish.
Remember DRIVERS, you also need the drivers installed & setup correctly in order for the hardware to work. As a tip, When connecting to a TV, always connect like this......First, plug all cables into TV's correct Video input(s). Connect up the Sound, plug all cables into laptop, turn TV ON. NOW, start the laptop, you should now soon see the an image.
NOTE: Some laptops & other devices, have HDMI out, sometimes, the AUDIO is not passed through, the HDMI cable, & the Audio must be run from Audio/Line OUT on laptop to AV IN on TV.Also some laptops have a socket that a multi-way 4/5/6/7 pins. A connector plugs into this, you then can connect to these connections, as you would normally. Also we have "Component Video" marked "Y" "Pb" & "Pr" these simply go color to color at BOTH ends, this is where the Red, Green, & Blues, colored Ends, of the Wires, goes, remembering that this is ALL only Video. With this method, you still must use the AV, red & White, Audio, Inputs to get the "Sound" into the unit At the rear or side of the PC there should be either or both of a 15 Pin DIN Plug, HDMI socket. or a Yellow RCA or 4 -7 pin DIN. Now IF these are present then YES you can connect to a TV. Now some TV's have a connector a DB15 MALE, so that the cable from the PC to the TV, is DB15. this plugs in directly, with appropriate DB15 cable. This, however, will ONLY take the VIDEO to the TV, Audio is delivered via the "Audio Out" Jack on PC, and Plugged into the AV Sockets on the TV, with a dual cored coaxial cable, they are Red & White. Some PC's also have a Yellow RCA Connector, OR a 4 -7 Pin DIN Socket, that requires a Special Adapter Cable (That generally came with the unit, and are colored and marked as to output) to use, for Video/Audio Out to TV. This signal is Composite or SVHS Video & Stereo Out. This connects up TO the TV's Composite/SVHS input Jacks and the Red & White Audio IN, RCA Jacks, &/or DIN SVHS socket. Also we have "Component Video" marked "Y" "Pb" & "Pr" these simply go color to color at BOTH ends, this is where the Red, Green, & Blues, colored Ends, of the Wires, goes, remembering that this is ALL only Video. With this method, you still must use the AV, red & White, Audio, Inputs to get the "Sound" into the unit
First you need to know if your PC can output to a TV. Then you need to get the adapter & cables that connect the PC to the TV. Then you need the correct TV drivers installed for your video card. When they are all installed, you need to "Enable" that Monitors, the TV's, Desktop. You need to set either a "Cloned" display or "Spanned, Extended Desktop". Go to "Display Settings" Now ensure the TV/Monitor connected has the correct input/output display settings. Adjust the screens resolution via the resoloution "Slider", it is best to start with, 800x600 32 bit color. or even lower. and once working OK, THEN increase to max resolution, your TV can handle, find out from manual. Once it is all connected up. It should all just work great. Now, from then on, &, to get it to work every-time, the process is. Turn everything OFF. Connect the leads between PC & TV, Turn the TV, ON. Then, startup the PC up. It should "Detect" that it has TWO "Monitors" ie: One Monitor & One TV/Monitor, & you should see your desktop appear after a bit. Now you have screen 1 & screens 2. Now, if you are using "Cloned" mode, then whatever is displayed on the Master monitor, will be displayed on the TV. If you used Spanned, mode, in this mode, however, you will have to."Drag" the Video window, over to the TV, and it is though, you have one "Big Desktop". Now IF using Nvidia or ATI then BOTH of those have thier OWN, Control Panel, this, all then can make it all a lot easier to do it. So I would suggest that this method be used. But if you get stuck, or just want to do it by hand, then the the "By Hand" method is the only way.There is a great program called MultiMon, this allows great control over dual displays, and is well worth installing.

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1 Answer

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Okay, here's the verdict. No such din connector for the Bose AM15's exist. I thought I would take another look to see if anything had changed since I had looked last. Once again, all is the same and it makes using standard wiring a pain. However, it is possible to do what you want to do, which I assume is a nice clean install. I have rigged many of these systems, and, here's what I do.

First, the biggest pain is the 25' LFE cable. Shortening it is a pain because the wires are thin and dificult to splice. Lengthening it isn't a great idea either because you want to keep the cables as short as possible. However, a lesser of 2 evils exist and that is to keep this cable whole. Before you begin, peel the LFE cable from the buch untill it is separated from the bundle. Next, peel the speaker wire for each speaker so the pos and neg for each speaker is together, but, separated from the bundle. Then you'll place the sub where you intend it to go, plug in the 13 pin din (I even looked at vga options...nada) and stretch the cable to the wall and cut one speaker wire at a time (+ and -) being CAREFULL to mark which wire is positive and which is negative after the cut. DO NOT cut the LFE cable, and make sure you give yourself an extra foot or so before you cut the wires.

Once the cuts are complete and you have labeled pos and neg for each wire, you may strip the wire and plug into your regular speaker wire wall plate (banana or clips). On the reverse side of the plate, attatch the pos and neg to the plates making sure everything is consistant. Then, run the wires to your receiver (or vise versa). Regular speaker wires typically distingush pos from neg through some sort of marking on the wire housing.

The other cable you will run is the sub (LFE cable). If you want to just drill a hole in the wall and stuff the cable in and run it to the receiver, that's one way, but if you want to keep it clean, use a single RCA connection wall plate. Then, to minimize loss of LFE sound, run a TV coaxial cable from the sub to the receiver and terminate both ends with RCA terminators.

Once the wires are run to the receiver, double check that all the speakers are hooked into the sub and the wiring is complete. Take a AA battery and mark the location of the speaker that corresponds to the wire. In other words, with the speaker wire, hold one end to one side of the battery and the other end tap lightly to the other side of the battery. You will hear a crackle or pop locating the speaker the wire goes to. Once this is identified, label the wire and plug into the appropriate output making sure the pos and neg are consistant.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so, I drew a diagram and will attach it to this forum asap. Good luck and have a blast!

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The 2 system are completely different your is low level input and its is having only 2 input L and R when those signal they get inside your sub it process through an DSP ( Digital Signal Processor ) and become 5 output to yours satellite cube speakers
The AM6 or 10 are high level input connected direct to any output of any AMP from those signal they convert down to low frequency for sub woofer

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depending on how bad the current plug is what you can do is cut the plug down the middle (about 1/2" from the the tips of the pins) and what that will do is put you inside the plug just behind the solder points on the pins and from there ou should be able to indentify which colored wire went where and then make a diagram on paper. If the plug is not too bad off right now i would cut the cable behind the plug and trace whatever wires are still good to the tips of the pins and write their locations down before cutting the plug. Try to cut the plug as clean as possible using something like a dremel rotary tool works well, you may have to pause in cutting if the plastic starts melting too much do to heat from friction.

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