Does it matter what 3 wires coming from stater , get hooked to 3 wires going to the rectifer/regulator
The stator burn out on my atv replaced ,but it also burnt 2 of the 3 wire on the short wire harness that connects stator to rectifer/regulator. don't know if it matters what wire goes where since all 3 wire comong from stator is the same ac voltage
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This can usually be attributed to your regulator/rectifier. It takes the power sent via the stator - and forwards on to the charging sytem...kind of like an alternator regulator in a way. When shot - they can smoke your CDI, burn out lights, all kinds of issues. First thing - there will be a small box with fins on it, usually but not always on atvs with stators - you'll have 3 white or yellow wires coming out of crankcase - they go to your regulator/rectifier - disconnect that plug and make sure none of the wires have been pushed back or it's not caked full of dirt or mud. All looks good (and your sure your battery is in good shape - reply below with year, make & model - and I'll see if I can get you the proper testing specs. Testing them is really easy with any multi-meter; cheapest one they give you at Harbor Freight for spending $10 on Sunday will do. You'll want to pinpoint this and repair asap. A $30 rectifier can kill a $100-$300 CDI fast. All The Best & Good Luck
Usually you need to replace the regulator/rectifier & stator at the same time. Why? Your stator puts out 220-240 v ac current. enough to power an electric dryer. That is turned into about 15v dc current for the battery. What usually happens in ATV's is the electrical connectors are lousy and fail. This burns out one or both units. Motor sport mechanics are well aware of this so to avoid retesting and chasing shorts that come and go they replace the whole thing so they don't have people coming back for warranty work. You can find after market parts online for much less than you can buy at motor sports retailers. A few hundred vs a thousand plus. Don't forget the gasket under the housing when you get at the stator. You can't avoid the dealer price on the gasket.
Polaris uses a stator located under the flywheel for charging. The flywheel is located on the right side of the atv under the pull rope cover. The easiest way to check to make sure the stator is working is to run a continuity and voltage test. There will be 3 yellow wires coming from a grommet on the right back side of the motor. Disconnect these wires at the plug and check each yellow wire for continuity to each other on the component side, not harness side. If I remember right the continuity should be about 20-30 ohms for each. If one is out of spec with the others the stator will need to be replaced. Also check each of the yellow wires for continuity to ground, there should be none. If ground is present the stator will need to be replaced. Finally, start the atv and set your meter to VAC to test alternating current. Test each wire to each other to get the voltage. Voltage from each wire should be no less than about 15 volts at idle, working up to about 30-35 volts at 3-4000 RPM. Try that and if you need any more help let me know, Daniel.
Your rectifier is the problem .A rectifiers job is to save the wiring from over heating .it will only allow a set & safe voltage through your wiring ,any highter .and the wires will melt .They do break down ,either letting in too much current or to little .The new unit can be tested quite easily .Connect all the wires start bike check the voltage out put from the battery .13.4 volts is the hightest it should go ,no more .
your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot
It should have a 3 phase charging system. Do an ohms check. look for 3 wires either white or yellow coming out of the motor. more than likely it will be on the left side of the motor ( sitting on the bike ) . put your meter on the horshoe of your meter ( OHMS ) and check wire 1 to 2 1 to 3 then wire 2 to 1 and 2 to 3. you should get numbers of some sort. If you have OFL, OL Out of limits.... on any of the legs ( wires ) then the stator is bad. More than likely it's the regulator. On the regulator , with the meter still in ohms, you'll have a red wire, a black wire. Those are the wires your meter's positive ( red ) lead will hook up to. red on red. then check the other wires ( except the black ) for numbers. then put the black lead on the same wire the red lead was just hooked up to. and do the same test. If you have numbers going both directions then the regulator is bad. You should get numbers one direction and OFL, OL the other way. Then do the same test on the black wire withe same outcome as the first set of Regulator tests.
You do not need the stator wire to hook to anything. It normally goes to the voltage regulator to supply the ignition source. The regulator needs 12 and ign which is normally supplied through the stator wire and a wire to alt feild and chassis grnd. The stator after fusebox is tied in with carb elec choke. you can make sure the elc choke and regulator have 12v at ign on and not worry about alt stator