Question about LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer

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Thermal cut off

Where can i find the thermal cut off switch? i replaced the igniter, but got no where. any other suggestions?

I have an LG gas dryer model DLG0332W

thanks for your help-
Joey

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The thermal high limit is located on the side of the flame tube part number Y61886 You also can visit my site and enter model or part numbers in the search feature. We also offer free assistance. Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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Gas dryer checked ignitor, thermal fuse and flame all had continuity still ignitor will not glow or heat


Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff

Feb 20, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My gas dryer burner does not heat. The igniter does not glow even to permit the gas valve to turn on. Everything else works and checks out being good, such as the thermostats, igniter, flame sensor. ...


You could check the igniter by testing to see if 120 volts is at the wiring the igniter plugs into, if 120 vac at that plug the igniter is bad Also need to check THERMAL FUSE,in addation to thermostat,on electric dryers if thermal fuse is out it cuts circuit to motor, on many brand dryers if thermal fuse bad on GAS dryer it cuts circuit to igniter

Aug 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat replaced ignitor unit and tested sensors


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Sep 16, 2009 | LG DLG5988 Gas Dryer

2 Answers

My Neptune dryer mdg5500awgg wont heat up. Any suggestions?


I am providing some links courtesy of www.repairclinic.com that will assist you in the diagnose/repair of your dryer.

Firstly, ascertain that you have made a positive heat selection on the control panel switch, then proceed onward.

Parts breakdown/disassembly procedures:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Gas-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)



1. Gas Valve Coils image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di3479&PartID=3479

2. Ignitor image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di3018&PartID=3018

3. Thermal Fuse image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di516650&PartID=516650

Aug 26, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Doesn't heat


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Aug 01, 2009 | LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Need help locating fuse or thermal cut out on Amana Gas Dryer


ther thermal fuses and all thermos are locate dbehind the lower acess panel.. youll need to check for continuity throuhgt the thermostats, particularly the one atop the flame can...

Mar 15, 2009 | Amana NDG7800AW Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer won't stay on.


tc7059d4.jpg9729365.jpg3403fe5.jpgThe wiring diagram for your dryer is shown in the first image below. A thermal fuse is normally in the circuit to the igniter on many gas dryers. I recommend checking this fuse. On dryer model 11073032102, you can access this fuse by _unplugging the dryer, shutting off the gas supply,_ and removing the bottom front service panel as shown in the second image below. On some Kenmore dryers, you have to remove the back panel to access the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing . The third image shows the location and replacement procedure. To test the thermal fuse, remove at least one wire (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure near zero ohms (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance (open), then the thermal fuse is blown and will need to be replaced.NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, check the venting for your dryer. Restricted exhaust venting can cause the thermal fuse to blow.

thank You Huuum
Please remember to leave a solved rating before you sign off!

Dec 13, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Thermal fuse


hi. thanks for the question. the thermal fuse is located in the dryer, on the air duct, small piece with 2 wires to it. replace . also clean venting, and inside the dryer.thanks the appliance doc

Oct 05, 2008 | Dryers

3 Answers

My kenmore dryer is not heating


ck the igniter if it get hot red.if not .replace it.

Dec 18, 2007 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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