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What causes the pressure switch to "Fail to open"?

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Typically when the pressure does not reach the proper level, this can be caused by a weak inducer motor, restriction in the flue pipe or tubing that runs from switch to inducer cracked or plugged. If everything appears clear, the switch itself could be faulty.

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Error code f51 flashing. What's wrong?


David: Try downloading this free user manual: http://laundry.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/miele/pw_6065.htmlk According to ApplianceHelponline.: " Heater pressure switch The program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The display shows Technical fault F51. Call Service Department. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:

Start position: One second after the program start, heater relay K1/1 is activated. This enables a check as to whether the contacts on heater pressure switch B1/13 have closed on switching steps 21/22 or 11/12.

Cause:
Heater relay defective; contact open.

Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.

Cause:
Heater relay solenoid defective.

Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.

Cause:
Connection from heater relay to electronic module open-circuited.

Remedy:

1. Check plug connections.

2. Check the connection wires for continuity.

Cause:
Heater pressure switch open- or short-circuited.

Remedy:
Replace the heater pressure switch.

Cause:
Connection from heater pressure switch to electronic open-circuited.

Remedy:

1. Check plug connections.

2. Check the connection wires for continuity.

Cause:
Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.

Remedy:
Replace the heater pressure switch."

May 14, 2015 | Miele Washing Machines

Tip

Ford air conditioning failure


I've been researching Ford 2010 air conditioner failures, and have read on many threads the problem is a "Filter drier" problem that starts with the freon getting contaminated (with filter desiccant balls that remove moisture, bursting, and clogging up the whole system) and causing extreme pressure, cutting out the limit switch, which stops the compressor. Ford does not want to recall this problem. Simple fix? NOT
#1 Check the high low pressure of the freon... (Some have suggested a release of freon from high side of the system helps temporarily)
#2 Removal of the freon, changing the filter drier, and a recharge of freon, will fix the problem (filtering most of the contaminates) in most cases providing all the fuses were checked out "OK"... Fan relays etc..

Thread from another Ford owner.......When I turned on the AC for the first time this year it made a loud grinding noise for a few seconds, then never cooled.Took it in to the dealership to check and for regular 45,000 mile maintenance.
Dealer called and gave the following description of the problem ..."in the AC dryer there is a filter bag with "little blue balls" of desiccant. It seems that it is a very common problem that these filter bags burst and flood the entire AC system with the balls (aka "debris") which causes all the parts to fail and or clog. Many of the parts can't be effectively flushed so the have to be replaced." The cost to replace the entire AC system (all valves, tubes, hoses, evaporator, compressor, condenser, accumulator, dryer, etc.) came to $2,022.65. This dryer unit that is causing all the problems is a non-serviceable unit and is in no way affected by regular maintenance, and there is nothing that can be done to prevent a failure.

The cost of this part alone at national parts stores (Advance/Autozone, etc.) is around $30.00. This very inexpensive part however causes extensive damage to very expensive parts. I would call this a "manufacturers defect". Also the replacement dryer used in the $2,022.65 repair is identical to the one that failed.

on May 27, 2014 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

Tip

Washing machine showing F4 on display.


<span>Hi.<br /><br />This tip applies to Whirlpool built washer, including Kenmore and other brands.<br /><br />F4 means that the problem is caused by a defective pressure switch. The problem is often coming with troubles in the spin part of the cycle.<br /><br />The following is an extract from the washer service manual:<br /><br />"F4" flashes and the cycle signal beeps when the recirculate pressure<br />switch is not working properly during the Catalyst, W ash or Soak cycle.<br />If "F4" is flashing, check the following:<br />- Plugged recirculate hose (black hose).<br />- Plugged or disconnected air tube (clear tube).<br />- Wires to the recirculate pressure switch disconnected or not<br />connected correctly.<br />- Failed recirculate pressure switch. Switch (black wire, tan wire)<br />contacts should be open with pressure applied and closed with<br />no pressure.<br /><br /><br />Try disconnecting power by tripping the circuit breaker or disconnecting power cord for five minutes. If that does not clear the error check the thin clear rubber hose connected to the pressure switch and extending into the tub. Try blowing into pressure hose and clean it. If that does not fix the problem replace the pressure switch.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action">To locate parts and diagrams, please enter the full model number, as witten in service tag, in this website.</a><br /><br />Regards.<br /><br />Ginko.</span>

on Jan 13, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

What is Technical Fault 51? It appeared a few moments ago on our machine, but when I switched it off and reset the machine it worked as normal again.


F51 Heater pressure switch The program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The display shows Technical fault F51. Call Service Department. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:

Start position: One second after the program start, heater relay K1/1 is activated. This enables a check as to whether the contacts on heater pressure switch B1/13 have closed on switching steps 21/22 or 11/12.

Cause:
Heater relay defective; contact open.

Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.

Cause:
Heater relay solenoid defective.

Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.

Cause:
Connection from heater relay to electronic module open-circuited.

Remedy:

1. Check plug connections.

2. Check the connection wires for continuity.

Cause:
Heater pressure switch open- or short-circuited.

Remedy:
Replace the heater pressure switch.

Cause:
Connection from heater pressure switch to electronic open-circuited.

Remedy:

1. Check plug connections.

2. Check the connection wires for continuity.

Cause:
Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.

Remedy:
Replace the heater pressure switch.

Apr 14, 2015 | Miele Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to do back pressure test on pool heater


FLO is an open circuit error. you have several other safeties other than your pressure switch

Sep 01, 2012 | Jandy Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater 400000 BTU ...

1 Answer

PSE+G stated the problem was diagnosed as a pressure swith on my Goodman heater....any suggestions to fix? Is this an expensive job?


How do you test a pressure switch and other limit controls? This is for people who are experienced with electrical equipment and the use of a Volt Ohm meter. *Please never by pass a pressure switch or limit control. The pressure switch and limit switches are there for your safety. If you have an open limit control either the furnace has over heated or the limit has gone bad. Problems that would make a limit open up would be dirty filters, dirty evaporator coil causing a restriction in the air flow or a slow blower motor (check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is good). A weak blower motor capacitor will cause the blower to run slow and eventually fail. Pressure switches, and limit switches can be tested with a meter in the same manner. With the furnace calling for heat you can test each of the terminals on the pressure switch to ground to make sure the pressure switch is closed. You should be getting between 24 to 28 volts from each terminal to ground if the pressure switch is closed. If the pressure switch is open you either have a stopped up vent, drain line (if you have a condensing furnace) or bad pressure switch. Please keep in mind there are many different types. The front terminal is burnt and discolored. This is a clue that this pressure switch has a problem.

Dec 22, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Coleman home heater stops working fault code "limit switch open"


How do you test a pressure switch and other limit controls?
This is for people who are experienced with electrical equipment and the use of a Volt Ohm meter. *Please never by pass a pressure switch or limit control. The pressure switch and limit switches are there for your safety. You would test by setting your volt meter to "Volts AC" and test the rollout switch by placing one meter probe on one terminal of the rollout switch and your other meter probe to a good ground. Have the red probe touching the top terminal of the rollout switch and the black probe touching a ground (body) of the furnace. You should be getting 25.85 volts which means the rollout is good on the top terminal. I would next test the bottom terminal of the rollout by touching the red meter probe to the bottom terminal on the rollout switch and the black terminal to ground. If I get 25.85 volts on the bottom terminal the rollout is good. If I do not get any voltage on the bottom terminal then the rollout has tripped and can be reset (if equipped) by pressing in on the little button or replaced. If your rollout switch is tripped you probably have a stopped up heat exchanger or a leaking heat exchanger. I would recommend calling in a service technician to find out why the rollout switch tripped. If you have an open limit control either the furnace has over heated or the limit has gone bad. Problems that would make a limit open up would be dirty filters, dirty evaporator coil causing a restriction in the air flow or a slow blower motor (check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is good). A weak blower motor capacitor will cause the blower to run slow and eventually fail. Pressure switches, and limit switches can be tested with a meter in the same manner. With the furnace calling for heat you can test each of the terminals on the pressure switch to ground to make sure the pressure switch is closed. You should be getting between 24 to 28 volts from each terminal to ground if the pressure switch is closed. If the pressure switch is open you either have a stopped up vent, drain line (if you have a condensing furnace) or bad pressure switch.

Nov 27, 2010 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

60 gal farm hand air compressor starts, builds up pressure, but won't restart when pressure drops. After cool restarts.


Your pressure switch may be malfunctioning or the start capacitor may be starting to fail.

Dec 21, 2009 | Air Tools & Compressors

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