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Twin Tub washing machine: The water will drain out from the rinse bowl, however, the spinner bowl will not spin? What could be the problem? (I have dismantled the appliance & there is not anything

I recently purchased this w/m & there was water pouring out the rinse bowl. The machine was dismantled and the 'seal unit' was inserted incorrectly (this has since be rectified). However, now the spinner bowl will not spin, but, it will drain. (Could water have dripped onto the motor unit and damaged it below the bowl, when the bowl was leaking?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: washer

The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Front Load Washer

Removing the lower front panel (3 screws nearest floor), and opening the round, white water pump filter cap (be ready to catch about 2 gallons of water!) is the best place to start. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a large, flat pan (deep turkey tray works well)!

YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE what I found in my filter housing this morning (see photo below)!

490ccb1.jpg

The washer is working fine now, although I may go back and remove the entire water pump so it can be dismantled, thoroughly cleaned, and reinstalled.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GHW9300PW water leak

The problem, I suspect, is the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot on the door and front of the tub. The key is the fact that it only leaks during fill, or when adding water, and only leaks in the front center. The washer fills through a dispenser tube in the door bellow. Water runs through this tube and into the front portion of the tub. If you pull back the rubber folds of the bellow and look, you may have some rips or tears causing the water to drip out. If there are no obvious signs of wear causing the leak, the other two possibilities would be the dispenser tube not inserted through the bellow all the way. That is, the tube may have slipped behind the bellow a bit and may be causing water to drip BEHIND the bellow instead of through the fill port. Another cause would be if one of the clamps that hold the bellow in place has come loose and is not sealing to the front of the tub, or door frame properly. The following link explains how to replace a door bellow:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

I provide this link not only to give you advice in the event that your bellow needs replaced, but also to give you steps necessary to access the bellow in order the check or tighten the clamps. NOTE: An alternate method to checking the rear bellow clamp (located on the front of the tub) is to remove the washer top panel and attempt to access the 7mm clamp nut from the top. The method I have described in the link, however, offers the best access. NOTE: The clamp needs to be seated evenly around the entire perimeter of the tub facing and the clamp should be SNUG. DO NOT overtighten. This will cause damage to the clamp and/or tub facing.

If you require a replacement, you can order on line at appliancepartspros.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 5. Other items of interest are the rear bellow clamp, item 6 and the front bellow clamp, item 14. In most cases the clamps do not require replacement and can be reused. But, just in case you have to replace them, you now have them identified.

You can perform this repair on your own, if you like and save the cost of expensive labor charges. This is not a difficult repair, if you follow the instructions provided. This repair can usually cost $200 or more (cost of the part, plus the labor) if you have a repairman do it.

The problem could possibly have been caused by excessive vibration, but its hard to tell. Washers mounted on a pedestal can often have vibration problems if the washer is not mounted properly to the pedestal. Make sure all mounting bolts are installed that hold the washer to the pedestal. Make sure they are tight. Also, proper leveling can be an issue. DO NOT attempt to level the feet of the washer on a pedestal. Mount the washer and adjust the feet of the pedestal for proper leveling. Make sure the unit rests on a flat surface and is level front-to-back and side-to-side. A good foundation is also required to ensure the washer does not vibrate. If the flooring under these washers flex (even the slightest) they can cause vibration problems even if it is properly leveled. Flooring in an upstairs laundry room or a mobile home is usually the worst. Another item to consider is the pedestal itself. Look at the back of the pedestal. Is it open in the back, or does it have a back panel that encloses it? If the pedestal back is open, this can cause a condition known as "tin-canning", where the sides of the pedestal waffle in and out and begins to bounce when the washer spins. This can be overcome by purchasing a stiffener kit. Look at your pedestal and let me know if this may be the issue with yours. If so, I can provide you with a part number to order.

If you have further question, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cabrio drains water onto floor.

I took the back cover off of the machine and found that the drain pump had a hole in it. The hole was caused by a coin that had made it's way down to the drain pump. The replacement pump cost $90.00 and was very easy to put in. If you google the words cabrio tear down you will come across a web site that has a video that shows you how to take the pump out. I have not had any leaks since. Keep the coins out of the washer, remeber to check your pockets to avoid paying out cash.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag stack unit Model LSE7806ACE leaks

It is most likely the tub seal. Take the two phillips head screws out of the front cover located low on the cover lift forward and remove. Set the machine two low level and fill with water only no soap or clothes when unit starts agitating look at the bottom center of the clothes tub if water is leaking here then you will need to replace the tub seal and tub bearing assembly.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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i) place an empty bucket on the floor
ii) lower the drain HOSE into the bucket - gravity will cause the water to drain into the bucket. Empty the bucket. Perform this procedure until all water has been emptied from the bowl.
iii) move the washing machine out from the wall, to gain access to the drain pump (usually a large screwcap). Place a large towel on the floor, under the screwcap - this will catch any remaining water that escapes.
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vi) remove all wet clothes from the machine bowl.
vii) re-assemble the drain pump cap/filter and secure it in place. Install drain hose back into your laundry tub. Plug machine back into power.
viii) fill the bucket with water and pour water back into your machine's bowl. Repeat with a 2nd bucket of water.
ix) manually select and operate SPIN cycle on the machine. Observe if drain pump functions correctly and empties water from the bowl. If yes, then you have resolved the problem.

If your pump has been cleared of all obtstructions but your machine will still not empty water from the bowl, then a full diagnostic will need to be carried out by an authorised service agent to determine which component has failed.


Let me know how you get on.....

Good Luck..

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Hi just read your posting. The problem appears to be your drain pump is either blocked or faulty.If you would like I can guide you throe the removal of the pump. The reason it does not reach full spin speed is there is still water under the bowl slowing it down.It is impossible to drain the machine by hand completely.Please reply If you require extra help on the pump removal.

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