Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I believe that this model number is for an air conditioner evaporator coil. This unit is probably directly attached to your furnace. The Model number for the furnace will be located in the compartment where the flames can be seen. It will be on a sticker or plate that contains lots of other information too like BTU/h, Volts etc...
The number you gave me gives me this info:
Cased air conditioning evaporator coil.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
SOURCE: pilot ligting instructions
many of the newer furnaces don't have a standing pilot. look to see if you have a gas valve with a knob on top that says off pilot and on. look to see if a tube the size of a pencil comes out of the valve and goes down by one of the burners, look to see if there is a little gold piece of metal tubing protruding down to the opening of the larger tube . that is where you place the match. i prefer to use a grill lighter. safer and positive flame. turn knob to off wait 5 minutes for any gas to disipate. be sure your incoming gas valves are all open . usually at the meter and one at the furnace. usually the handle is in line with the pipe when open. from the off position, turn the knob on the furnace gas valve to pilot position and push down on it as you turn. this lets gas flow to the pilot tube by the burner where you have you flame starter lit and waiting. once pilot lights hold down on button for 3 minutes or less. longer is better to be sure the thermocouple senses flame . then gently release the downward pressure and the pilot should stay lit and you gently turn knob to on. if pilot goes out you may have a bad thermocouple. be especially careful if its lp or propane as that gas does not disipate like natural gas and can virtually lay on the floor till ignited. also consider having the heat exchanger checked by a pro with a carbon monoxide detector. they do crack after a few years and can be deadly when they do. good luck
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
That blinking light may be the diagnostic light. Count the blinks next time it fails. Carrier units will have two different blinks depicting the error code such as one blink followed by a pause than 3 blinks giving you an error code of 13. Then look at the wiring diagram, it will have an error code chart telling you where to start with your diagnosis. You already know that if you remove the cover it erases the error code, so look thru the small window first.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
this sounds exactly like the problem. I replaced a gas valve yesterday in a Goodman furnace that had the same symptoms. I would check it or have it checked with a manometer before you replace the valve. If your inlet pressure is right and you cant get enough pressure by turning the adjustment screw clockwise, it is bad. LP should have @11-13inches of water column coming into the vavle and an outlet pressure of 7 inches of water column. Natural gas should have @5-7 inches coming in and an outlet pressure of 3.5 inches of water column
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 28, 2016 | Carrier Weathermaker 8000 Gas Furnace 125k...
Nov 25, 2013 | Heating & Cooling
Jan 08, 2013 | Heating & Cooling
Dec 21, 2012 | Heating & Cooling
Dec 23, 2010 | Carrier Heating & Cooling
Feb 03, 2010 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...
Nov 30, 2009 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...
74 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: